Massoth Rail Clamp screws

[Martino]

As I’m taking up the South Bucks Light Railway for a move of house, I am having to unscrew a large number of Massoth/Train line tTPE rail clamps. I standardized on these way back ( although I have some split jaws for points/turnouts/switches and bridges and very few ams types too) and always thought when putting them in, why they used conventional screws instead of Phillips/cross head types. At the time is seemed that Phillips type would be more positive in locating a screw driver.

Anyway, on going round the line with an electric screwdriver to remove them, I feel that the whole job would be MUCH easier with Phillips type.

Any idea why they used simple slot screws?

 

[phils2um]

My guess is to avoid cam-out which is common (at least for me) with phillips head screws.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Exactly, Philips work well when the driver is exactly matched and you can put good pressure on them. Neither is common in our hobby!

 

[Paul M]

Philips or Posidrive screws are easier to over-tighten compared to slotted screws, something that isn't good in this application

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Given the right conditions, yes, But bearing down hard on the clamps with the screws pointing up gives little support. Also, perhaps you have found that clearing a slot of fine grit (remember ballast?) is easier than the semi-conical pit in the screw head.

I use clamps with allen heads, where very little force is required to keep the wrench in the screw head.

Greg

 

[dunnyrail]

As I’m taking up the South Bucks Light Railway for a move of house, I am having to unscrew a large number of Massoth/Train line tTPE rail clamps. I standardized on these way back ( although I have some split jaws for points/turnouts/switches and bridges and very few ams types too) and always thought when putting them in, why they used conventional screws instead of Phillips/cross head types. At the time is seemed that Phillips type would be more positive in locating a screw driver.

Anyway, on going round the line with an electric screwdriver to remove them, I feel that the whole job would be MUCH easier with Phillips type.

Any idea why they used simple slot screws?

I imagine due to not needing to be so tight. I personally would not use an electric driver on them even with clutch set low. As the screws are brass it is so easy to damage the slot with a powered driver. Pain if you have weak or arthritic hands I know.

 

[JimmyB]

Given the right conditions, yes, But bearing down hard on the clamps with the screws pointing up gives little support. Also, perhaps you have found that clearing a slot of fine grit (remember ballast?) is easier than the semi-conical pit in the screw head.

I use clamps with allen heads, where very little force is required to keep the wrench in the screw head.

Greg

I think allen heads are normally the best as it either fits or it doesn't, cross-point to use the generic term that people use for Phillips, Posidrive, JIS and others come in different sizes as well so there can be at least a dozen combinations for cross-point screw head.

 

[Martino]

I understand. Interesting that split jaw and others use hex keys or Allen keys though.

 

[Neil Robinson]

I understand. Interesting that split jaw and others use hex keys or Allen keys though.

I strongly recommend ball ended hex keys with these clamps

Bondhus Ball-End L-Shaped Metric Hex Allen Keys; Sizes 1.27-14MM | eBay

Bondhus Ball-end L Shaped hex keys. - Sizes include 1.27, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 12.0 & 14mm. At TechmacTools we have a wide range of different products, that can have many variations.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I have the ball ended ones drivers for convenience, but for untightening ones that have been in place for 10 years,
(or siezed) you should use a straight driver, the ball ended ones have less surface area and can tear up the allen head in these cases, as me how I know. Tightening is fine as you do not need to over tighten.

Greg

 

[Paul M]

With Allen screws, you have really ensure you have the right key, imperial or metric, if the key is even slightly loose, you will damage either the key or the screw

 

[JimmyB]

With Allen screws, you have really ensure you have the right key, imperial or metric, if the key is even slightly loose, you will damage either the key or the screw

Also that it is full inserted, again or damage to the key or head could occur.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Agreed, there was a batch of Aristo track where the joiner screws' allen "hole" was not deep enough, what a mess that was, had to get all new screws, and the bad ones were all that were manufactured for a while.

Greg

 

[Cranford]

Also that it is full inserted, again or damage to the key or head could occur.

The simple answer is that you can clean out a groove, not easy cleaning a Philips or the Allen key type, I'm sure Massoth thought that one out.