Manufacturer Compatibility

R

rjstott

DIY, Photography, Electronics and Computers
Can anyone point to information on the compoatability between different manufacturers of track and any ways to bridge between different incompatible products. For example, LGB won't run on Marklin track (C?) because of the wheel flange. Marklin will run on LGB but you can't connect LGB to Marklin. Where do Peco, PIKO and Aristocraft fit? LGB looks very strong and durable but out of scale with 1 gauge. I might consider sacrificing scale for durability if there was a sufficient range of compatible products but am reluctant to focus on a single manufacturer.

Richard Stott
 
Are you looking for a finescale rail ?

code 250 is finescale and Piko make this.

but 340 is more common and used by the main manufacturers like LGB, USA Trains, Aristocraft

Some deep flanged models like Roundhouse can hit the sleeper tops on code 250 track.
 
Hi Richard,

the first answer is very simple:

There is an old, everlasting discussion about what "G" Scale is.
So, as long as some people beating their heads, let me say that:

G Scale is MAINLY everything on 45 mm gauge.
That are scales from 1:32 upt to 1:19

But its also everything in scales between 1:32 and 1:29 that uses OTHER track than 45mm gauge.

Why?

let me give a try:

prototypical there are different gauges from several narrow gauges over standard up to broadgauge (spain, russia...)
If u calculate that down by scale u get different gauges in modelling.

Now comes the big chaos!

While gauge 1 is scale 1:32, its reduced quite heavy, what makes standard-prototype-stock looking nearly the same as the less reduces narrow-gauges in scale 1:22,5.

That means, while the gauge 1 standardgauge-track with 45mm has the same model-gauge as LGB narrow gauge track, the gauge 1 is reduced MUCH more from prototypical measurments. means: all u see in gauge 1 seems to be more fragile and fine as it will in gauge 2.
So does the rails.

Now, having completely different customers in mind, the manufacturers did what aimed on their customers:
the LGB narrow gauge had to become a durable toy, while most gauge 1 models are expensive high-detailed adult-models.

So, while the narrow-gauge modeling started to grew adult, the some kind of elitist gauge 1 scene tried to get the other customers with becoming less detailed and therefor cheaper.

Not to be "checked out" from other systems, some manufacturers tried to hold on on the 45mm gauge, no matter what it means in scale.

Others dont matter about anything like piko. They use scale 1:27 on 45mm tracks. that ist neither standard gauge nor narrow.....its just the measurement that makes standard-stock beeing nearly as big as 1:22,5 LGB to run on 45 mm track!!!

While the ones care less about, others are going to be detailed:
Bachmann has US rolling stock in 1:22,5 for a 45mm track. but looking on it, the calculation between gauge and scale doesnt fit. 1:22,5 and 45mm makes a European 1000mm-Gauge.

So the F-Scale came up: scale 1:20,3 what makes the 45mm track (to be able to use e.g. LGB-track) exactly the scaled gauge.


puzzeled?

yes, its weird.
but prototypical building, construction and operations are weird, too.

So with G-scale modelling, there are two mainstreams:

the one tries to fit EVERYTHING to 45mm gauge,
and the other that wants to have the exact downscaled gauge (or otherway round the exact scale for calculating from 45mm up)


more puzzled?

ok, i´ll stop.

If u want to use most used rolling stock, look to use the track they call "Code 332" or like this. That code just gives the heigth of the rail. That is as far as i know aristo, LGB, piko, thiel....

looks a bit clumsy, but is stable and works fine.

All other things are a bit for counting rivets, so its at yours to see what u want.
But dont wonder:
its the "rivet-counting-thing" that makes some layouts looking so extraordinary fine!!!!! Because the finest Details are balanced!

But there is no use having a perfectly scaled 1:20,3 scaled layout with exactly downscaled rails (some people differ between the used rails from different RR companies!) and then let run an LCE on it. And thats why the LCE (aka LGB or piko-locos) dont run on some tracks: toy meets pro-modeling!
Every branch has its right to exist....

Greetings

Frank
 
Thanks for the quick replies. It seems the magic google word is "code" and seemingly there are three sizes 200, 250 and 332. This is thousandths of an inch of rail height. The Marklin track I have is 200 and that is a problem for LGB stock though it is probably as near as dammit to scale for 1 gauge. I have bought a lot of 1 gauge Marklin locos and stock but there's something quite appealing about American classic steam and as its a garden railway I can't see much against running both American and European (but not together).

There do appear to be connectors to join the different codes but you probably can't go from 200 to 332 in one joint. 332 is described as being most widely available in set sections whilst the smaller sections are more limited and aimed more at flex-track solutions. I guess my best bet would be code 250 (it runs all manufacturers products) and nickel silver or stainless steel requires less or zero cleaning.

I'm most interested in running trains and computerising the running whilst building in the bells, whistles and lights.

There is a lot more to be found if you google "code xxx rail"

Richard
 
Oh, dont get me wrong Tac,

Gauge 1 was -as long as i have seen it- always a very expensive product. about 10 or 15 years ago märklin tried to come to the cheaper customers-segement with its metal-plate-line.

All other models i knew for gauge 1 were expensive (but all in all compareable with high-quality "largescale"), and beside this, the gauge 1 market is known as the biggest elite-model market in the railworld.
There are lifelike models with 10 and 20 thousands of euro costs.

And i know some gauge 1 modelers with that expensive models.....they look to the rest of the modeling world with some arrogance.
Those species of men you cant show a nice model where not ALL things are of metal. After their thoughts, even the window-glasses should be made of metal....no, for sure, not that bad, but nearly.
Everything like cars under 400 euro per car is "cheap shit". Every loco under 4000 Euro, too.

That i mean with elitist.

Even LGBs gauge 2m EVER was cheap in the starterset, but grew fast expensive with a little bigger locos and cars. I know that LGB locos were techincally very stable, but the prices for the (many thousand times sold) RHB Krocodile (e.g.) and compareable things were just too expensive.

But for LGB wasnt the only one to go on gauge 2m, Bachmann had a cheap line....EVER had a cheap line.


blabla..blabla....what do i want to tell?

there are more "detailed" modelers in 45mm gauge 1 than there are in 45 mm gauge 2m.
There are less toyplayers in gauge 1 than in gauge 2m.


Frank
 
rjstott said:
Thanks for the quick replies. It seems the magic google word is "code" and seemingly there are three sizes 200, 250 and 332. This is thousandths of an inch of rail height. The Marklin track I have is 200 and that is a problem for LGB stock though it is probably as near as dammit to scale for 1 gauge. I have bought a lot of 1 gauge Marklin locos and stock but there's something quite appealing about American classic steam and as its a garden railway I can't see much against running both American and European (but not together).

There do appear to be connectors to join the different codes but you probably can't go from 200 to 332 in one joint. 332 is described as being most widely available in set sections whilst the smaller sections are more limited and aimed more at flex-track solutions. I guess my best bet would be code 250 (it runs all manufacturers products) and nickel silver or stainless steel requires less or zero cleaning.

I'm most interested in running trains and computerising the running whilst building in the bells, whistles and lights.

There is a lot more to be found if you google "code xxx rail"

Richard
Click to expand...

Peco makes a code 200 track that works with both LGB and Märklin, I use it and am very happy with it. Not much of a selection though, but it's compatible with Hübner switches (the new Märklin switches that comes in sections).
Hübner switches works with LGB stock while Peco #1 switches causes a "clatter" as the wheel threads of Bachmann and LGB stock hit the rail spikes. It's audible, but not a derailing factor.

That is the closest you can get to scale appearance and at the same time let all your friends come and play :)
 
hagen said:
rjstott said:
Thanks for the quick replies. It seems the magic google word is "code" and seemingly there are three sizes 200, 250 and 332. This is thousandths of an inch of rail height. The Marklin track I have is 200 and that is a problem for LGB stock though it is probably as near as dammit to scale for 1 gauge. I have bought a lot of 1 gauge Marklin locos and stock but there's something quite appealing about American classic steam and as its a garden railway I can't see much against running both American and European (but not together).

There do appear to be connectors to join the different codes but you probably can't go from 200 to 332 in one joint. 332 is described as being most widely available in set sections whilst the smaller sections are more limited and aimed more at flex-track solutions. I guess my best bet would be code 250 (it runs all manufacturers products) and nickel silver or stainless steel requires less or zero cleaning.

I'm most interested in running trains and computerising the running whilst building in the bells, whistles and lights.

There is a lot more to be found if you google "code xxx rail"

Richard
Click to expand...

Peco makes a code 200 track that works with both LGB and Märklin, I use it and am very happy with it. Not much of a selection though, but it's compatible with Hübner switches (the new Märklin switches that comes in sections).
Hübner switches works with LGB stock while Peco #1 switches causes a "clatter" as the wheel threads of Bachmann and LGB stock hit the rail spikes. It's audible, but not a derailing factor.

That is the closest you can get to scale appearance and at the same time let all your friends come and play :)
Click to expand...

As Hagen mentions, you can connect Peco code 200 to code 332 made by LGB, ART, USAT, Piko etc, and Peco make a special joiner to do this....

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=PESL-912&style=main&strType=g&Mcode=Peco SL-912
 
They make special joiners for their code 250 "G" track :)
For 200 to 332 you have to make something yourself. If you need 332 that is.
I also have some of Pecos code 250, but I haven't tried it outside yet.
 
As someone new to all this, you have confused me, the great ignorant. It would seem that the manufacturers are as organised as the people who make mobile telephones and their chargers. All different.

I bought Peco and don't mind it. It's good enough for me. Having said that, I have ordered some Tenmille track ready made for now. I will be interested to see how it matches the Peco track.

I also bought some Aristo-craft track made in China. I got it from e-bay. That does not match at all to the Peco track. In fact the rail would make good 3rd rail power rail. (Shame I am not using a 3rd rail system). There is at least an eigth inch difference in height in the thickness of the rail. I could get round it by not using the fishplates but by soldering the track with the sleepers an eighth of an inch deeper.

Later, I shall use Tenmille line panel pinned down to wooden sleepers. (Without the chairs) But the problem is that unless you are aware of any difference, you are stuck in a quandary. And at G scale, it becomes costly.
 
hagen said:
They make special joiners for their code 250 "G" track :)
For 200 to 332 you have to make something yourself. If you need 332 that is.
I also have some of Pecos code 250, but I haven't tried it outside yet.
Click to expand...

I stand corrected as Hagen mentioned. I should have said code 250, which is Peco's G Scale track. Peco also make a 45 mm gauge code 200 track, which is for G1.

Another method of joining different types/makes of track would be with Railclamps, or as Steveford666 mentioned previous to this post, soldering/brazing track together.

And take a look at this Youtube clip of the current works to link the North Norfolk Railway to the Network Rail line in Sheringham, where the bullhead rail is joined to flatbottom rail, ( at 3 mins 45 sec near the ending ) just to show that this also happens on the real railway here in the UK....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtXCmEds-X4
 
Sherringham! What plonker decided to shunt that wagon wit the brake pinned hard down? So they have the crossing ready. I understand there is some aggro with HMRI not having their reams of paperwork that destroys a forest the size of Yorkshire. Hopefully that will be resolved.

March 11th is the first through train from London. It's a shame the train has to be split at Norwich to cut it down to 4 coaches and two locos (70013 and whatever diesel). They will never be able to run full length trains until they relay the traclk on the other part of the triangle at Cromer. Shame. Perhaps they want to start a collection?
 
I gave up on the idea of thermite welding! :laugh: I will let youm know how I get on with Tenmille prodcuts. But I feel like Brunel did when he realised that his broad gauge was not going to be accepted!
 
I am a fully qualified layabout. I saw the Tenmille advert and decided to try their 1.5 metre flexi track out. If that works, then I will go for just the rail and make my own sleepers. I am basing it loosely (v-e-r-y loosely) on an early 20th idea. The rails wil be spiked into the sleepers. I have been chatting to my local timber yard about the sleepers and pins. I have got some timber (1x1) that I have cut into 6 inch lengths which is soaking in creosote. In a week I will be able to make the jigs out of them, so they can be wrapped at the bottom with alliminium foild and stuck in concrete pads. When the concrete is dry, they will be removed and replaced with the trestles to carry the track.
 
Tenmille Track; made in Suffolk, England.

A British product no less, and not made in China.

Their G scale track is Code 332, but with a narrower 'foot' than other makes of G scale track, such as LGB, etc.

They mainly produce track for G1 though....
 
I two have been looking into this subject with a view to moving to g 250 stainless steel by Cliff Barker or others for NG (3ft "ish") for its reduced expansion coefficient. To date have been singularly unsuccessful in finding any critical comment on S/S track (inc. joining to LGB track, all my stock is LGB). All I seem to find is a passing reference as above.
Can anybody fill in the gap please.
 
I tried soldering Tenmille to Peco track. The air was blue and I got hotter than the soldering iron. No luck, The joins were as secure as the Titanic! It didn't need an iceberg to break them. :crying:
I am looking for a stronger soldering gun.
 
Steveford666 said:
I tried soldering Tenmille to Peco track. The air was blue and I got hotter than the soldering iron. No luck, The joins were as secure as the Titanic! It didn't need an iceberg to break them. :crying:
I am looking for a stronger soldering gun.
Click to expand...

steve you need use one of them little blow toach gas cylinder type with small nosel (seriously) works every time
Tony
 
I have ordered one. As luck would have it the Peco to LGB track joiners hold the rails to the right height. The blow lamp will fasten the rails and melt the clips. (The black plastic looks horrible)
 
This little blow torch came through the post,
making use of it to its utmost,
I tried to solder the joints as best I could,
but it would have been better if the tracks were of wood,
To join to gether two pieces of rail,
this blow torch just had to fail,
The rail just didn't get hot,
to take the solder in a spot,

Seriously, the blow torch lasted 30 seconds before it ran out of gas. :( So I decided that the best option would be to take it all up and start again using one manufacturer. Back to the drawing board. Tenmille is not for me. I am sticking to Peco.
 
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