Making Wheels?

G-force1

G-force1

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The question for tonight is - If you were to turn your own wheels, would you make them in brass or steel? (electrical conductivity is not required)

I realise that wheels/axle sets are already readily available from various sources, but only to their own particular sizes. It is a route I could possibly go but not before I've investigated making my own, particularly as I don't need many.
 
Always wondered about the longevity of 3D printed wheels. The sintered or fused build of the material and the fact that the track the wheels are running on is a lot harder, would make me think that they would wear pretty quickly if put under a decent load regularly?

What about stainless steel? Maybe a little more expensive per kilo than mild steel but can often be bought in smaller amounts. A little harder to cut too, but doable. Would also save you the problem of trying to protect the steel (and the brass to a lesser extent) against oxidation. A nicer colour for the tyres too than brass, and harder than both the other metals.
 
Printed plastic isn't an option, and I too would be doubtful as to their longevity. Stainless is a possibility, not all stainless is hard, but easily suitable for this need. The only drawback is 'not currently in stock', though there is probably no rush.
 
I think I would go stainless.. Especially if there is a 'softer' more easily workable version.
Reasoning:
Brass wheels are usually plated.. Once the plating wears through, they pit quite readily. - My theory on this is the individual component metals conduct, oxidise, and wear at differing rates, and this contributes to the effect.
Once they pit, they pick up all the carp, in said pits which makes things worse.

My first question of stainless wheels would be :
Can you 'black' stainless?
 
Them printed wheels (that came with a wagon purchase on Trade Me) never ran on my track.... soon as I saw them, they were off, and into the spare spare parts bin (read junk).
 
I turned loads of wheels from either bright mild steel or aluminium bar stock. Bought short lengths from Chronos. Also bought 6.5mm Dia Nylon for insulation from the same compant.

When I want larger or differing diameters I use flat Black Mild steel bar with a suitable hole saw. I made an arbor so I could put them in the lath.

The axles are piano wire. alwayshobbies

Once turned to required profile, I demount from the chuck and squeeze in the nylon using the vice. Then I re-chuck, use a centre drill has a starter (to maintain conentricity) then drill out to accept the axle. To maintain the illusion of a substantial axle, I use a piece of plastic tube from a trigger squeeze bottle.

Because of the nature of the nylon, a very tight (interference) fit is obtained - mallet used in the fitting process!

The aluminium wheels are light but OK if your truck (or whatever) has some added weight somewhere.

I did shrink some 28mm copper tube on to a couple of sets of the ali wheels to provide tyres. I had the idea to create a powered bogie. Still a Round-Tu-it!

I have made up plastic wheelsets using plastic tube for the tyres and Meccano plastic pulleys (with brass boss) for the centres.

The steel wheels are the best and present no problems.

Stainless is a pain to thread turn.

Suitable blackening agents can also be obtained from Chronos.

It's not that I am advertising the company but rather it was the only way I could obtain materials (and lathe tools) as we are rather bereft of civilised model engineering components out here in the (wild) West.
 
<Sigh>
I seriously need to dismantle and move my late Fathers lathe, and get it over here.. Then I can cue the 'round-tu-it' (possibly even turn my own!?) and ...
1. Learn to turn metal to a decent finish.
2. Learn to turn to a drawing / pattern.
3. Learn to repeat No.2, so as to obtain (at least) two items 'near enough' the same.
4. Stop it going rusty!! - I have sprayed it with 'lubricant' of various types, to try to keep it in reasonable condition.. Spare chucks etc. are beginning to show signs of surface rust. Not good.

I know there are 'hobby engineer' books out there, but they soon get to a point where the jargon kicks-in, and I do not know what they are on about.
Oh, and according to one of the Charge-Hands from my time at the Beeb. "If you can't turn a twin-start thread, you are not a machinist!". :(:rolleyes:;)
 
Thanks Mick, that is quite informative. I have steel (mild) and brass in stock, and have just discovered some long-forgotten cast iron that would make some sizes. I'm currently looking at wheels up to 45mm dia. Imitating spokes is going to be a minor problem, but I suppose applying blacking over a mask might suffice. Nickle plating wouldn't be too much of a problem, but as Phil pointed out plating wears through over time.

Axles will be easy with silver steel rod.

Chronos ( http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/ ) is a supplier I use from time to time, though I have Cromwell's ( https://www.cromwell.co.uk ) not far away, and they are useful too. It is true to say though that life gets harder in that direction as time goes by. Non-ferrous suppliers are getting thinner on the ground and here again I sometimes use Noggin-end ( https://www.nogginend.com ) who supplies small quantities and is often found at exhibitions.

Phil, don't be put off by comments from old hands, they're only showing off. Everybody started learning somewhere, and we don't need to be experts, only get by. Twin start threads are no more difficult than single, once you twig the trick. And how often does anyone need a twin start anyway?
 
Graham said:
I bought one of these to use to turn up wheels - not cheap but solves the problem of cutting the finicky angles and getting a repeat performance (or so I hope as I have get to get-round-to-it o_O)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-HSS-Rad...692043?hash=item1a1ee8540b:g:SFQAAOSwo4pYEiGS
Click to expand...

Yep, I was going to grind my own. I wouldn't have the 'hook' end, as the flange rad. can be finished with a quick rub of a file. That shape would be difficult to sharpen, though it would last well on brass.
 
Drifting slightly... And having the expertise 'online' here...
Is it worth / possible to 're-profile' worn wheels?

I have a Mikado here, where the wheels are through the plating, and beginning to have grooves in them. - Just a thought..
 
G-force1 said:
Yep, I was going to grind my own. I wouldn't have the 'hook' end, as the flange rad. can be finished with a quick rub of a file. That shape would be difficult to sharpen, though it would last well on brass.
Click to expand...

I think as they are double ended they would last quite a while if being used on cast iron, mild steel or brass, but 316 or similar...:wasntme:
 
PhilP said:
Drifting slightly... And having the expertise 'online' here...
Is it worth / possible to 're-profile' worn wheels?

I have a Mikado here, where the wheels are through the plating, and beginning to have grooves in them. - Just a thought..
Click to expand...

Possible? Don't see why not. Worth it? Possibly debateable, depending on replacement cost.
 
Guys don't be so quick to dismiss 3d printed wheels they don't wear as much as you might think, I printed my first set of wheels about 2 years ago they have done many miles and hardly show any wear at all besides should they start to wear in 30 minuets i will have a new set ready to go. They also have the advantage of being able to design the correct shape and profile to suit the prototype you are modelling instead of making do with the nearest equivalent.i am currently experimenting with 3d printed wheels with brass tires.
Alan
 
I only dismiss them as I haven't got a 3D printer (or know how to use one), whilst I do have a full blown M.E.'s workshop. Heat will also be a factor as it will be on live steam.
 
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