Livesteam/Plumbing.

Rob1962

Rob1962

Happy Steaming.
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Quite often I come across leaks and wanting to do repairs myself, I do know how to solder electronics decently, My Live Steamers are Locos/3/4 Traction Engines and some Stationary Engines. Can somebody recommend what I would need to get started? I’m not sure if we should be brazing, Silver soldering/Torch ?Mainly Brass /Copper tubing or soldering Can someone please recommend something for the home workshop?This is meant for thin tubing and etc for our Miniatures Not scale.
 
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I would certainly try to learn Silver Soldering, it is not as tricky as I thought it would be - though cleanliness is certainly next to godliness with the art and do not expect to Silver Solder where Soft Solder has been used, it does not work.

Find a YT vid, get some small gauge Silver Solder Wire and matching Flux. When that first joint flows the sence of achievement is well worth the effort.

Oh and yes it is for JOINING close worked items, Filling gaps does not work.
 
Thank you so instance if i wanted to add steam regulator and cut a copper tube i would use silver solder correct.
 
I would personally. If you're not confident in doing it yourself, try your local model railway group, preferably large scale, some will help you
 
Rob1962 said:
Thank you so instance if i wanted to add steam regulator and cut a copper tube i would use silver solder correct.
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Yes, silver solder is harder, and crucially fot the type of use you suggest, has a higher melting point than traditional lead/tin 'soft' solder. You will need a small gas torch, a heat proof tile/bricks to work on, some solder (there are different grades, but any will do), flux, and ideally a dilute acid 'pickle' to clean your work afterwards.
 
That is a yes from me as well.

As Patrick says a small gas torch is the thing for small fittings, I use one of those kitchen jobbies. Here is mine, I use smokers Butane cans as shown, not the cheepest way to buy Butane but for the quantities required for small jobs the easiest.

LGB track cleaner for scale appreciation.image.jpg
 
Thank you ,I did try a local club called LILS in Yaphank New York several times but not evven a response back,I have tried this in the past but the solder just wont adhere,I cleaned the are,Heated to tubing used Flux but no luck.Perhaps for the Brass/Copper tubing someone can post the exact Solder and flux with a link on who has it.
 
Rob1962 said:
Thank you ,I did try a local club called LILS in Yaphank New York several times but not evven a response back,I have tried this in the past but the solder just wont adhere,I cleaned the are,Heated to tubing used Flux but no luck.Perhaps for the Brass/Copper tubing someone can post the exact Solder and flux with a link on who has it.
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I sid say earlier that silver solder will not work where normal solder has been used. Also that cleanliness is next to but you cannot take the residue out of normal solder for silver solder to work.
 
Ok thank you I believe you had mentioned yesterday about the silver solder should have 5% lead. I cannot find anything with the exact dosage that you had mentioned. Could you provide a link possibly of what you use eBay or Amazon please let me know. Thank you..
 
No Paul i did not but i will this spring when they have a public Run Day.
 
Here is some info on solders
Jewelry "Easy" Solder: 65% Silver, 20% Copper, 15% Zinc.
Jewelry "Extra Easy" Solder: 56% Silver, 22% Copper, 17% Zinc, 5% Tin.
Low-Temperature Jewelry Solder: 56% Silver

Soldering and Torches - JETS INC. - Jewelers Equipment Tools and Supplies

jetsinc.com jetsinc.com
The above website has the solder I use, soft and medium. They also have the proper flux that I use in 7-ounce size.
I found that I needed to have the material hotter than soft soldering process. The material needs to reach "red" heat and have the flux melt and get silvery in appearance. At this point the silver will melt and flow into the
joint. I have been soft soldering for more than 65 yeas now. I had to learn to be patient and wait for the temperature of the material to reach the melting point of the silver solder and then it would work. Jets Inc. has all of hte materials you should need to start your process. Practice with scrap materials and you will find it not so hard to do.
Charles M
 

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Rob1962 said:
Ok thank you I believe you had mentioned yesterday about the silver solder should have 5% lead. I cannot find anything with the exact dosage that you had mentioned. Could you provide a link possibly of what you use eBay or Amazon please let me know. Thank you..
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So far as I can find by research Silver Solder does not have any lead within but it may contain lead like substances whatever that may mean.
 
Silver solder typically consists of silver, copper, zinc, and sometimes tin. The exact ratio of these elements can vary based on the specific type of silver solder and its intended use. Higher silver content generally results in improved flow characteristics and better joint strength, though it can also raise the cost of the solder.
 
JimmyB said:
Silver solder typically consists of silver, copper, zinc, and sometimes tin. The exact ratio of these elements can vary based on the specific type of silver solder and its intended use. Higher silver content generally results in improved flow characteristics and better joint strength, though it can also raise the cost of the solder.
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Thanks for that Jimmy, was at Tony Green in Lincoln a couple of weeks back and we got talking about Silver Solder as you do. He reckons price is going through the roof, Silver content apparently.
 
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