Lining out your Loco after Locolines Stopped Trading

Thanks a lot Mike.

I'll try and see if they have any advice on puttting laser decals through my laser printer an HP LJ P2015. You wouldn't be able to find out which HP LJ you had used for me please?

Yes its an impressive train of stock cars. I could offer some (but no cattle sounds yet) and a couple of Fat Connie helpers and even a Drover caboose.

Mike
 
WKDOR said:
Thanks a lot Mike.

I'll try and see if they have any advice on puttting laser decals through my laser printer an HP LJ P2015. You wouldn't be able to find out which HP LJ you had used for me please?

Yes its an impressive train of stock cars. I could offer some (but no cattle sounds yet) and a couple of Fat Connie helpers and even a Drover caboose.

Mike
Click to expand...
Hi Mike
it was an HP 2025

In 1:29 scale I have 8 Bachmann Rio Grande stock cars (3 of which motorised and another 2 maybe going the same way) and 1 LGB one that has cow sounds (unfortunately it is yellow in colour!). There are a further two QSI 'live action' cow sound cards. A couple of narrow gauge cabooses (cabeese?)
The locos for these can be 1 black bachmann annie, 1 bumble-bee annie, a kit bashed old Aristo C16, a connie (but this is a little out of scale with the rest). Also there is a little problem with the spped/gearing of the C16. The Annies are pretty close to the speed of the motorised stockcars at any voltage but the C16 isn't.
The mallet and mikado could be used but would not be right hauling narrow gauge cars but there again.....who cares!
In 1:20.3 I have three accucraft (AMS) stock cars and some other accucraft rollingstock and these will need a Bachmann K27, the connie and possibly another loco as non of these cars are motorised.
I could throw in the shays!
 
Thanks again Mike

Sorry I now see that they have more than one decal paper for laser printers. Have you used the Dry Rub Off as opposed to water-slide?

I mix'n'match 1:20 and 1:29 which usually works OK and can be justified to any rivet counters - 1:29 @ 4' 8.5" SG is remarkably similar to 1:20 @ 3' 00" US NG. After all the DRGW converted SG locos to NG use.

Mike
 
Indeed I have used rub off ones either ready made or by using sheets of letters. These work well and because they are so thin they really seem to show any texture like wood etc. The only problem is finding ready made ones as they apparently are difficult to make and cost a little more than ready made water-slide. If you know of a good source of flying Rio grande rub off decals that have different sized logos for different rolling stock, then I would just love to know!
 
Redtail said:
Thank you for the info regarding DIY transfers. May have a look at that. Nice job on the tramcar.
They could do with some of those in Edinburgh:rolf:
Click to expand...
Errrrr Trams or Lines or both???:rolf:

As James suggests Bow pens can do a superb job, I bought a cheap one of EBay and its great with a cuppla provisios. You need a template to follow and it has to be raised slightly off the part you're lining as the paint will tend to bleed or run. The advantage is of course the lines are in paint and colour is entirely your choice. The hard part is that it requires a very steady hand and for small jobs the decals are far easier to apply.....
I used elcheapo Decal film and I'm happy with the result, it did take a bit of fiddling to get things right but the results speak for themselves.....
 
We often see pics of superb work on this forum.
Here are some pics of a disaster.
I tried making rub down transfers using materials from CraftyComputer (no criticism of them).
The idea was to emulate the lining on my Ogwen for a tender.
Problems came with cutting out the finished lines and logo.
It's sort of OK from 6 feet away:-
93cd602f662742d18cf15a57b8b7b2d8.jpg


Hamfisted cutting etc is a different story in close-up:-
6e75a50cb29f4ecf9b6df02de22a3c72.jpg


So DIY decals are not really for me.
 
I use a lining pen from Peter Spoerer, you need to practice quite a bit first but the results can be quite good once you get the hang of it. Here's my Katie that I did a while ago...

9065e38de1ba4e81aef43e7595c5f33a.jpg



Redtail said:
I was intending to get some tranfers for my Lawley recently, not knowing that Locolines had closed.
What do others use? I know Lightlines are available but what with the cost plus the posting of said loco,
it all starts to add up. What are lining pens like to use? Is it difficult to get a good finish with them?
Your thoughts chaps8|
Click to expand...
 
Beavercreek,
Your photo of the 4 engine stock train on the Rio Grande was taken by Robert Richardson . He took the shot at Sargents on October 9,1953 . This was on the west side of the Marshall Pass route going from Gunnison to Salida .This would be moving the beef to lower pastures before the winter snows came to Colorado. I got to meet Bob many years ago , a very nice guy to visit with.
Charles M :D
 
Your Katie looks very nice. You certainly get a fine line. I have had a look at Peter Spoerers web site and may have a try with a pen. I do draw and paint a bit. However this is with military figures 90mm scale.
I just like the idea of doing it for real, so I may well get one.
 
Charles M said:
Beavercreek,
Your photo of the 4 engine stock train on the Rio Grande was taken by Robert Richardson . He took the shot at Sargents on October 9,1953 . This was on the west side of the Marshall Pass route going from Gunnison to Salida .This would be moving the beef to lower pastures before the winter snows came to Colorado. I got to meet Bob many years ago , a very nice guy to visit with.
Charles M :D
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Hi charles
Many thanks for the info on the photo, it is great to get the story behind a shot as well as the photographer. I have a pretty vast selection of books and photos of the Rio Grande, both narrow and standard gauge. The ones that seem tio have the most poignant atmosphere are the ones of those little locos pulling creaking old freights across the wide open high country. This one is a very good example.

Mike
 
Hi Mike

We'd all love to know which craftycomputerpaper laser decal paper you used so effectively. There are two craftycomputerpaper laser decal papers on their website:

[*]Dry Rub Off - uses adhesive paper and all images and lettering are reversed[*]Water-slide - traditionl soak in bowl of water etc
Which did you you use for your Beavercreek loco lettering please?


Mike
 
...one hell of a load of beef!!
Click to expand...

Blimey Mike, just think of the jaw-ache eating that lot !!

(Enjoyed reading this thread guys, some fantastic photos - thanks :thumbup: )
 
WKDOR said:
Hi Mike

We'd all love to know which craftypaper laser decal paper you used so effectively. There are two craftypaper laser decal papers on their website:

[*]Dry Rub Off - uses adhesive paper and all images and lettering are reversed[*]Water-slide - traditionl soak in bowl of water etc
Which did you you use for your Beavercreek loco lettering please?


Mike
Click to expand...



Hi Don. Yes, even an American appetite might be sated by that lot....think of the spuds to make all the chips


Hi Mike
Thank you for the kind comments
I use the waterslide paper.
 
Back on Trimline, I've just given my Wrekin what may be termed a "General Repair" and while dismantled it received a respray into MR Standard Engine Green. Finally, a moderately OK job with thin gold Trimline.
6abb9aeccd69400db638cfeca01d7f37.jpg

Also just received some brass sheet to improve the DIY cab backsheet.
 
Mike, one last question please. I'm almost ready to try this!

Did you have any joy using the Crafty Laser waterslide decals over tender rivets or should I avoid them - or even chop them off?

Many Thanks

Mike
 
Hi Mike
Use Microset on the surface first before applying the decal then Microsol when the decal is on and this will make the decal mould itself in and around the rivets. Just take care with the decal when you have applied the microsol!
I get mine from these guys
http://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/microscale-micro-decal-solution-30ml-p-12008.html < Link To http://www.modelhobbies.c...tion-30ml-p-12008.html

Here are the instructions from the website:
Micro Sol setting solution is for the most difficult irregular surfaces you find on models. It completely softens the Microscale Decal allowing it to drape down onto the surface of the model conforming perfectly and without distortion. You can get the most amazing results in seemingly impossible places, because Micro Sol actually makes the decal part of the paint. For that reason you should coat Micro Sol on for only a few seconds and then leave it alone, it does the work. Do not touch until dry as the decal is very soft at this stage and could be easily damaged.
For the best results, first apply Micro Set to prepare the surface and enhance adhesion. Make sure the surface is free of particles that could get under and blemish the decal. Then when dry enough so the decal will not move easily, apply Micro Sol with a small flat brush. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. Then just allow to dry. One application works in most cases, but if necessary allow to dry comnpletely and reapply until the deisred effect is achieved. Just by following these simple instructions you should have a perfect professional looking job.
 
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