Lilyvale Post Office from Hebel lightweight concrete block.

gregh

electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
Country flag
Lilyvale is the only 'town' on my railway and I decided I wanted a 'substantial' building for the post office – approx the same size as the pub which it will be adjacent to. I like the Post and Telegraph Office at the real town of Sandstone WA, but wanted a clock tower. So this montage shows what I envisaged. (apologies for the quality of this montage)
pub and PO mockup.jpg

Hebel (Thermalite in UK ?) lightweight concrete blocks seemed the ideal material as I have previously made station buildings and goods sheds from it. It's easy to carve and can stay outside in all weathers.

For more info on working with Hebel, see my webpages here:
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/hebel.htm

I drew some plans using Word Draw and decided on a scale of 1:30 so the buildings are a little smaller than my usual 1:25 scale.
lily po dwg front.jpg

By playing around with dimensions, I was able to use just a single 200x200x600mm (8”x8”x24”) block. Using a bush saw, I cut 150mm off the end – so the main body of the building will be 200x450.
IMG_4307.JPG

From the 150x200x200 piece, I cut two pieces 75x75x200 for the clock tower and two pieces 75x100x200 to form the 'add-on' rooms at the back. So the final 'footprint' is 275 x 450mm.

Then using a hand saw, I carefully cut the 'slopes' of the roof and used a rasp to smooth off the cuts.
(the roof will be covered in corrugated aluminium)

Here's the bits 'mocked-up'. (the tower will not be that high.)
IMG_4309.JPG

Then I started making windows and doors from styrene. The yellow ones are from a peg basket from a $2 shop. These fit into cutouts in the hebel.
I used 'frosted' plastic for the windows, from milk bottles, so you can't see in.
windows.JPG

The cutouts are made using whatever is suitable – hacksaw blade, chisel, knife, drills and spade bits. The window cutouts are around 40mm deep and will be painted black – there is NO interior detail.

gouging.jpg

Once all the cutouts were done, I could start scribing the stone courses using a hacksaw blade. This is a long, dusty job, best tackled in small stages.
This is the back, and the circular holes are 'keys' for the glue that will hold the add-on 'extension' rooms.
glue holes.JPG

The 'add-on' 'rooms' are glued with Fullers Ultra Clear silicone, and nailed with 4” nails.
nailing.JPG

Then I coloured the sandstone with cement oxides mixed with water and brushed on.
coloured back.JPG


wait for the next exciting installment...
 
Very effective Greg..

How long has your station building been out? Does it really stay out all year? Do you get frosts, at all?
Thanks,
PhilP.
 
Very effective Greg..

How long has your station building been out? Does it really stay out all year? Do you get frosts, at all?
Thanks,
PhilP.
Station building has been out 15 years, but I have a throw over cover to keep the splashes of the sides
This goods shed has been out for > 5 years with no protection. Note dirt that splashes.

Nope, no frosts, snow or other kinds of freezing.
IMG_4416.JPG
 
Thanks for the extra info Greg..
I fear the damp, and frosts would 'do for' it if left unprotected here in UK..
 
Very effective Greg..

How long has your station building been out? Does it really stay out all year? Do you get frosts, at all?
Thanks,
PhilP.
Not wishing to hijack Greg's superb thread. The Blocks do survive well in UK. The attached shows a Small Hut that I built for the Ruschbahn back in 2005. Is just 3.5x4x6 innches with a roof made from old self edhesive Kitchen Worktop (cant remember the name of the stuff just now) used Upside Down as this gives a good Rough Surface. Door is Plasticard with Lead Sheet Ridges. Block was detiled after scribing with sloppy concrete painted with a Small Brush to each Stone representation.
EDIT FORMICA for the Roof Tiles.
image.jpeg
This Bridge was built some 3 or so Years ago, cut out of a Solid Block ising a Jig Saw. Crack appeated during less then delicate fitting in place. Still awaiting Scribing of Blocks.image.jpeg
I made a similar Bridge to the above one for the Ruschbahn that survived outside some 8 Years before that line was demolished.
JonD
 
Last edited:
I was thinking I have Staffordshire clay, and quite a bit of shade. - Lawn takes forever to dry compared to neighbours.. Just think the base of a building (at ground level) would be wet quite a lot. Would have thought frost would tend to 'blow' the surface..

They are cheap enough to 'suck it and see' though..
Thanks.
 
I was thinking I have Staffordshire clay, and quite a bit of shade. - Lawn takes forever to dry compared to neighbours.. Just think the base of a building (at ground level) would be wet quite a lot. Would have thought frost would tend to 'blow' the surface..

They are cheap enough to 'suck it and see' though..
Thanks.

You could put a DPM underneath. IIRC Celcon blocks can be used for foundation, below ground.
 
You could put a DPM underneath. IIRC Celcon blocks can be used for foundation, below ground.

Was thinking above ground, there is nothing to hold the forces 'in' as moisture freezes within the block.. Will see..
 
I should perhaps have added that they must withstand some amount of freezing. I think Steve used them for his viaduct.
 
Brilliant Greg. I wish we could get this stuff here in South Eastern US.
 
Brilliant Greg. I wish we could get this stuff here in South Eastern US.
That is probably true, but you do get some forms of Dence Foam Sheet that I would die for and could be used in a similar way to great effect.
JonD
 
That is probably true, but you do get some forms of Dence Foam Sheet that I would die for and could be used in a similar way to great effect.
JonD

'Twould probably blow away in one our 'wind events' though! ⛈
 
d

do a google for hebel usa - it shows it's manufactured in Georgia. Maybe you can call them and find a local supplier
Yes, I saw that Greg. They apparently only supply to the building trade - in bulk! I only want a couple.
 
Most builders yards will probably have a few of these that were 2nd rate or even broken. Have a mosey round some or even visit some Building Sites and ask around, the Foreman would probably be more than happy to help if he can if you explain your needs
JonD
 
Now for part 2…..
Last time I had got this far . . the basic shape roughed out and scribed.
coloured back.JPG

Then it was time for the roof. I nailed 2mm styrene to the Hebel using 2” clouts, to provide strength for the overhang eaves.
almost done front.JPG Almost done.j

Then it was time to make the 'corrugated iron'. I use throw-away aluminium baking trays. These come in various thickness of Al, so look for the thicker ones .
al tray.JPG
I cut the round corners off and smoothed it out using any round bit of wood on a 'giving surface' (a newspaper). I use the handle of a chisel. Give it a good rub with coarse sandpaper to take the sheen off – preferably along the future corrugation direction, not across. Then cut into pieces and put through the corrugator. There's a fair bit of wastage as sometimes the Alum skews in the corrugator. The corrugated aluminium is then glued to the styrene roof with a silicone sealer – Fullers Ultra clear again. I then spray painted it lightly with Burgundy colour spray paint.

The Verandah roof was done similarly. It fits in a slot in the main wall and just pulls out. The posts are located over screws in the footpath.

I also glued the windows and doors in using the same sealant.

The lettering was done by the local print shop, including the signs, post boxes and clock face. I produce what I want in mirror reverse using MS Draw and then get it printed on clear plastic film ($4) .

The lettering ink is then on the 'back' of the sheet which I paint with a couple of coats of ACRYLIC paint before glueing to whatever backing I'm using.

The phone box is a perspex 'box' and the red sides are printed on adhesive clear plastic sheet.
phone box.JPG

The 2 pieces of the clock tower were nailed and glued together. The tower is separate from the main building – it pulls off from the front and is 'located' by two nails in the building front.

The white cornerstones and clock surrounds are done with plaster first then painted enamel white.

A major problem with Hebel is covering – disguising – where blocks join. So I used a chimney to cover the main joint on the side that is visible.
side final.jpg

And the finished building. (compare it to the first pic in this post)
lily PO front final .JPG

rearfinal.jpg

lily PO front close .JPG
 
Looks great Greg. You should be very pleased with that. Very skillful.
 
Very nice indeed! Always admired your hebel creations. Interesting to learn that you can drive nails into it.
 
Back
Top Bottom