Lift up bridge questions

GAP

GAP

G Scale Trains, HO Trains
14 Jun 2011
2,695
252
Bundaberg Queensland, Australia
I am installing a lift up (as opposed to lift out) bridge to allow access to the centre of the loop.
It will be hinged at one end and aligned at the non hinged end with lift out rail clamps.
I am concerned that at the hinged end the rail on the bridge will foul the rail on the base when the bridge is lifted.
Has anybody done something like this and are there any tips/suggestions that could be passed on?
 
voodoopenguin

voodoopenguin

Retired
20 Jul 2015
1,018
607
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Blofield, Norfolk
You need the pivot point higher than the top of the rail. Cannot remember the exact term, is it cranked or cantilever hinges? The rails are kept well away from each other.

Paul
 
P

phils2um

Phil S
11 Sep 2015
538
320
Ann Arbor, Michigan
I will be doing something very similar to bridge the gap (no pun intended) between a section of trestle and my shed. I've decided a fishbelly or underslung deck girder bridge will be the design. But, back to your question, the hinges will be attached to the walkways on either side of the track. That will put the hinge pivot line parallel to the track ends and in line with the top of the track. Attached is a rough sketch of what I intend on the hinged end. The bridge should swing up cleanly without interference.
Lift bridge hinge line - 1.jpeg
 
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GAP

GAP

G Scale Trains, HO Trains
14 Jun 2011
2,695
252
Bundaberg Queensland, Australia
Thanks for the replies,

VP will look at the pivot position.

Edit;
Just did a few experiments with the mock up and yes the hinge pivot point has to be higher than the rail top to get the clearance needed.

Phil,
It looks like I have to have the hinges on the same side as my rails and not underneath as I planned.
I just did a mock up of your example and if I have them underneath the bridge I am left with a gap at one end that the bridge will fold back into but this lets the bridge to raise only to 90 degrees whereas if the hinges are on top the bridge will fold further than 90 degrees.
The hinges on top look like a safer option.

With hinges on top I will just need to find a way to explain/disguise them.
 
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GAP

GAP

G Scale Trains, HO Trains
14 Jun 2011
2,695
252
Bundaberg Queensland, Australia
I got this suggestion from a US forum courtesy of Korm Kormsen so now I have more thinking/planning to do.


Quote; "i did not need it in the end, but i made plans and trials for just that.
my solution was to use inclined cuts on the rails."
korm_s lift up bridge.JPG
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
I got this suggestion from a US forum courtesy of Korm Kormsen so now I have more thinking/planning to do.


Quote; "i did not need it in the end, but i made plans and trials for just that.
my solution was to use inclined cuts on the rails."
View attachment 266166
Yes those angle cuts on the rails are what works. Wish I knew that when I did mine!
 
tac foley

tac foley

Registered
11 Apr 2017
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Near Huntingdon, UK
Thinking of using the angle cuts at the hinge end and Hillman's lift out rail clamps at the other end.
Do you actually HAVE the Hillman's lift-out rail-clamps?
 
idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Neither idle nor a marvel
13 Jul 2015
2,100
276
Ascot
Another option if you don't have any hillman clamps is to use plastic isolating rail joiners and cut out the top on one side so the rail bed is secured but it can be lifted out. You would have to provide some power to the lifted track but the plastic holds the rail in place and gives you a little wriggle room. I prefer the brown PIKO ones as they are less conspicuous but the yellow LGB ones would do as well.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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25 Oct 2009
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Thinking of using the angle cuts at the hinge end and Hillman's lift out rail clamps at the other end.
Yes I have Hillman Bridge Clamps one end. My issue is the other end.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

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Do you actually HAVE the Hillman's lift-out rail-clamps?
I have some, well at least 1 set will be Glendale ones, the others certainly Hillman.
 
granddad gnome

granddad gnome

Registered
I am installing a lift up (as opposed to lift out) bridge to allow access to the centre of the loop.
It will be hinged at one end and aligned at the non hinged end with lift out rail clamps.
I am concerned that at the hinged end the rail on the bridge will foul the rail on the base when the bridge is lifted.
Has anybody done something like this and are there any tips/suggestions that could be passed on?
I have just completed a lift up bridge project and have recorded all the steps in my blog which can be found at Gnome Valley Railway hope this can be of help
 
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ColinK

Registered
14 Apr 2017
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Lancaster
Another option if you don't have any hillman clamps is to use plastic isolating rail joiners and cut out the top on one side so the rail bed is secured but it can be lifted out. You would have to provide some power to the lifted track but the plastic holds the rail in place and gives you a little wriggle room. I prefer the brown PIKO ones as they are less conspicuous but the yellow LGB ones would do as well.
Thanks for the idea, I have lift out track sections across the baseboard joins on my indoor layout - each one secured my Hillman clamps (normal type, not lift out). Adding the wiring shouldn’t be too difficult and would save undoing lots of clamps if I ever exhibit it.

Another post in this thread has given me another idea, but too late for this layout, although another is planned. A lift up section will not work in my situation, but I hadn’t thought of a section that folds down instead.
 
dunnyrail

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
25 Oct 2009
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St.Neots Cambridgeshire UK
Thanks for the idea, I have lift out track sections across the baseboard joins on my indoor layout - each one secured my Hillman clamps (normal type, not lift out). Adding the wiring shouldn’t be too difficult and would save undoing lots of clamps if I ever exhibit it.

Another post in this thread has given me another idea, but too late for this layout, although another is planned. A lift up section will not work in my situation, but I hadn’t thought of a section that folds down instead.
This is the one I have built for my 00 line, no track as Cassettes sit on it. Bridge lifts out slightly higher so that the supports can be pulled out to support the bridging section. Power sone by clips to ally L on cassettes, simplest solution though a 2 pin phono plug would work just as well.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
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Paul M

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25 Oct 2016
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Royston
FatherMcD

FatherMcD

Registered
13 Mar 2014
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Idaho
I have just completed a lift up bridge project and have recorded all the steps in my blog which can be found at Gnome Valley Railway hope this can be of help
Peter, just perused your blog and bought a kindle copy of your book. I look forward to many inspiring hours reading the blog and your book. I'm in the early stages of building the Skelly Hill & Culloden Railway and have found that imagining and writing a fictional back story, mine is far short of a book, is not only quite entertaining and enjoyable but also helps with the many decisions necessary to building the actual railway. HAPPY STEAMING! Ken
 
GAP

GAP

G Scale Trains, HO Trains
14 Jun 2011
2,695
252
Bundaberg Queensland, Australia
What are "cassettes" in reference to trains....

In the US, this is a cassette:


Is it a term for a module or sectional setup?

Greg
Train carriers for want of a better description, trains are stored in a "cassette" and put onto the railway as needed.