Li-ion battery conversion for an LGB 2095 DCC diesel

whatlep

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Coggesrailway (Ian) asked me to convert his LGB 2095 "Whizzycranks" diesel to battery power. I say "his" diesel, but at the time he asked it was still at a shop in Holland, unseen apart from a sales photo! The commission would be to fit the 2095 with the Cliff Barker system that Ian had seen in use on several GSCers lines and a Li-ion battery for maximum running time. Since the 2095 is effectively a "shed on wheels", it sounded like a straightforward exercise....

Anyway, within days a package arrived from Holland. Once Mrs Whatlep had been calmed down ("It's for someone else, dear. Now put the shotgun on the floor."), the package was duly opened and examined:
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You have to expect an odd surprise when acquiring items unseen. So no great emotion to find that one brake pipe was missing nor that there was a rattle inside the body. A little strange to find that both bogies had a wheelset with a traction tyre and that there was no trace of a driver (not even a glue smear), but definitely unexpected to find that the loco was not a 2095. No, it was a fairly early 2096, the sound-fitted variant. A quick check of the loco showed that it had definitely been tinkered with previously, with random screws both old and new LGB patterns evident. The gearboxes were the old "split" pattern, but wheels and pickups showed hardly any wear at all. DCC was also clearly OK as I could program the decoder. Unhappily, test runs were a source for concern. The loco would run in both DCC and analogue modes, but with nasty "graunching" noises at slow speed and no sounds from the onboard kit. Oh dear: had Ian bought a lemon that someone had put together from bits?

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The next step was to take off the body shell. Inside was a maelstrom of "spaghetti wiring". The source of the rattle was obvious. Whoever had installed the DCC had mislaid several screws and failed to fix the old mainboard back in place. Twit! So, a steady process of removing bits commenced. First to go were the DCC chips:

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Welcome back to the DCC of 2001! For your entertainment we have a Lenz DCC chip, a booster chip (like an LGB 55030) to cope with the second motor and an add-on function board to cope with the power demands of the sound card. About £100 in 2001 (or roughly twice that in 2011 money). All now capable of being replaced with a single Massoth XL chip and worth absolutely nothing!

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Once the DCC kit had been removed, the loco's original main board could be checked over. Although Ian had only asked for a conversion, I hoped to be able to save the original LGB components, just in case Ian ever wanted to restore the loco to analogue or DCC operation. Happily, as soon as power was applied to the relevant terminals, the loco burst into life with sound too. Not very good sound of course: we're talking 1980s "Space Invaders" stuff! Even better, running was quieter, though still jerky at slow speed. Presumably the Lenz chips' frequencies were not as tuned to LGB motors as today's DCC kit, giving most of the "graunchy" noise.

The remainder of the day was a steady process of reducing Mr Whizzycranks to a series of parts. First the main board was removed for storage. Next it was time to attack the bogies and motors:
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Because the loco had been converted to run DCC, the previous owner had already electrically isolated the motors from the track pickups and soldered track supply wires to the connection points on the old-fashioned splt bogies. However, I still had to dismantle the whole shebang to remove all the plunger pickups and skates. Not only is that good practice in battery conversions to avoid a battery loco feeding power into the track (probably killing any attached DCC system), but it also makes any loco incredibly free-running compared to its original self.
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So off came the wheels and the skates and out pinged the carbon pickups and their springs. Both sides have to be done, of course. All bits and pieces again bagged up to be saved in case of retro-fitting to analogue/DCC. The four screws (plus one underneath) give access to the innards of the gearbox. In theory, I didn't need to get into the gearbox since no rewiring was needed, but I followed a hunch.
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Sure enough, there was no lubrication at all on the gears, though at some point someone had clearly oiled them (twit again!), rather than correctly applying grease which is what I now did. The look-round also confirmed that proper Buhler motors had been retained and that the wiring was in adequate shape, albeit a bit pinched in places.

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The bogies were both now completely reassembled, taking care to not trap the motor wires. New traction tyres were installed at the same time as those in place had lost any flexibility. I wonder, did both bogies on these early 2095s have a traction tyre, or had a previous owner been playing with parts as I suspected on first examination? Once satisfied, the bogies were bench-tested to make sure everything still worked. Result! Not only did the motors still turn, but performance was noticeably smoother. Grease is the word.....


So ended day 1. Tomorrow would be battery day!
 

whatlep

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Day 2. Enough dismantling: time to install things....

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First things first, take the wires from the bogies and feed them neatly under those nice big lead weights. Secure neatly with insulating tape and connect to each other using a piece of connector block. The yellow and brown wires are the former track feeds and will not have any further role in proceedings. They are simply being secured out of the way. The blue and green wires are the motor feeds and in the picture are being fed with DC from an analogue controller to check that both bogies will head in the same direction when power is supplied. Don't bother to ask how I know to do that check every time!

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Ian had agreed that the lights would not be used as the old fashioned bulbs draw more milliamps than is comfortable for battery power. All wires were therefore taped to the bodyshell's roof. Everything is still ready to be used should the loco go back to track power.

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Preparation for the battery controller means fitting a switch and a charging socket. For these I used, respectively, the existing 2095 power control switch hole and the hole for sound volume control. Both had to be reamed out slightly, but are again available for reuse on track power. I like "non-invasive" conversions! If you buy a battery conversion kit from Cliff Barker it includes absolutely everything needed for installation, including a very nice miniature changeover switch. However, LGB's plastic is rather too robust (thick) for that switch, so I substituted one from my parts box. In the picture switch and charging socket are in place and the battery side connections have been soldered. The black lead trailing out of the picture is the 2.1mm plug which will connect to the Li-ion battery. The speed controller/ receiver will be mounted on the rectangular piece of steel. Although it could have been mounted directly to the 2095's floor, to avoid any chance of melting plastic I elected to have this intermediate metal heat sink as a "belt and braces" approach.

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The receiver/ controller is now in place, bolted to the steel heat sink. From it, two wires go to the connector block to feed the motors, while red and black wires are connected to the switch and single connector block (visible in the previous picture but now wrapped round with insulating tape) respectively. The receiver's aerial curls round and is secured in place with insulating tape, as are all wires. Neatness is goodness! The switch has three positions: battery feeding receiver/ motors; battery not connected; battery connected to charging socket. All positions checked for correct operation and proven OK.

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Finally, time to install the battery. The black box is a generic 12 volt 6.8amp-hour item from China via eBay. Other versions are available slightly more cheaply without the plastic housing, normally wrapped in bright blue plastic. Battery choice was mainly aesthetic as the black housing is just about invisible through the 2095's windows, while the blue plastic is very obvious. The battery is placed on 5mm foam core board used for displays. It comes in A1 size sheets from any decent art shop. Cut to sit nicely on top of the weights, the battery is simply attached via black insulation tape. It's absolutely immovable, but easily replaceable should the need arise. Only the loco's body would have to be removed. The board is secured to the lead weights using a couple of self-tapping screws, ironically from a Massoth XL decoder installation kit.
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Another picture shows that there is plenty of clearance between receiver and battery board. The LED at the left-hand end of the loco is a "tell tale" factory-fitted to the receiver both to indicate that it is switched on and for use in altering factory settings should a user wish to do so.

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With that, installation was complete, so it was time for testing. On Friday, August 19th, 2011, Ian's new loco had its inaugural outing around Ruritania, running at full speed uphill and down dale with the train shown for 2.5 hours until rain interrupted things. I estimate that the battery still had at least 30 minutes more use in it at that point. Pretty good given the nature of my line which abounds in steep grades and R1 curves. The next day the loco was handed over to its proper owner in a simple, yet moving ceremony at Zenda station.

A fun project for me and hopefully useful to anyone else thinking of doing a battery conversion. If anyone wants more info about the Cliff Barker system, please see http://www.cliffbarker.me.uk/ . I probably should point out that I have no connection with Cliff, other than as a highly satisfied customer.
 

CoggesRailway

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All I have to add is THANKS!! :D

A great job and great to get a write up too. The 2095 has worked hard today with long trains for hours and hours and no sign of slowing. One day when I am working at home I will time it and see what she does...
 

MRail

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A very infomative write-up.
I've now received my black box battery via eBay.
So I'm wondering about the built-in switch.
Do you leave this permanently ON?.. and does the little LED take noticeable power?
Alternativley how is it accessed?
 

CoggesRailway

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Yes it is permnently on. So far the longest I have left it is 9 days, and there was not noticeable difference to performance when I went to play with it. Whatlep as the engineer as opposed to the owner may have more to say.
 

CoggesRailway

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PS if it was an issue I am sure that the battery of cells could be removed and the switch circumvented.
 

Dave Hub

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Peter that is a great thread, you make electrical gubbins look easy.

Some of us cower at such scary wire type things, It looks like radio control is the way of the 21st century, and at this rate Peter will have a long line of folks holding battery and gubbins.
 

MRail

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CoggesRailway said:
PS if it was an issue I am sure that the battery of cells could be removed and the switch circumvented.
That's something I'm considering.

Just fitted the blue packs to my two bogie locos.
Both went in with little modification other than fitting a coax plug to the supply leads.

The Playmo diesel is now somewhat slower, but has enough grunt for my gradients.
There's space for a second battery though...

Likewise the mini-Fairlie is slower again, but pulls OK.
The bicycle speedo car indicated 15mph on the level & 12 on the grades.

Too early and wet for endurance trials.
 

whatlep

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MRail said:
A very infomative write-up.
I've now received my black box battery via eBay.
So I'm wondering about the built-in switch.
Do you leave this permanently ON?.. and does the little LED take noticeable power?
Alternativley how is it accessed?
Watch this space. Over the past month I've been doing various experiments with the two types of generic batteries available off eBay. I'll publish detailed results ASAP, but my initial conclusion is that given a choice I would choose the blue batteries rather than the larger black ones for installation in an inaccesible place. For trail vehicles it doesn't matter which is used.
 

whatlep

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CoggesRailway said:
PS if it was an issue I am sure that the battery of cells could be removed and the switch circumvented.

Errr no. Don't even think about it! A little very cautious investigation suggests that trying to dismantle the cell is likely to damage it with consequent risk of fire (through shorting the cells).
 

CoggesRailway

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oh i assumed that the battery (as in the formation of cells in the correct sense) would be bound in some form within the hard case as is the norm... but yes I guess best not to tamper. Thanks for the warning and hopefully MRAIL is in one piece still??

by the way I have had a lipo ignite... it was one the size of a 50p piece from my micro helicopter. i bent it getting it out of the charger. it would have been a very effective tool for an arsonist. Lucky i dropped it on garage floor. A carpet would have been a disaster, possibly literally.

PS peter don't worry my big black box is still safe within it's big red box on wheels!
 

whatlep

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ROSS said:
I think Pete has both types. Black box with switch and the Blues.
These liths are avail up to 9600 milliamps (£25).

Crikey. I see one HK firm is doing 18000 milliamps type (18 amp) @ £60.00 That should run for a long time!!
Yes, I have both types of the 6800mAh version. The 9600mAh batteries are a bit on the large side for installing in a loco and the capacity is more than I need for a small engine. The price/performance of the 6800's is better too when I last looked on eBay.

Yes Dave, I fear you have paid out rather more than may have been strictly necessary! :crying:

P.S. It's worth going back over my earlier thread on these batteries too! http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?&m=148031&high=Li-ion&mpage=1
 

CoggesRailway

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Oops mr hub. I got a loco running on 3000 mah 7.2v nimh with charger for £30ish, but you have to be content with sllllloooooowwwww running.
 

MRail

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whatlep said:
CoggesRailway said:
PS if it was an issue I am sure that the battery of cells could be removed and the switch circumvented.
Errr no. Don't even think about it! A little very cautious investigation suggests that trying to dismantle the cell is likely to damage it
Cautious investigation - OK - I've removed the case screws.
The covers moved but would not open - both halves seem to be attached to internal components.
I've replaced the screws & that's it for me.
 

CoggesRailway

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to be fair they really do ignite and burn VERY hot (like a welders torch) easily. I had that experience with a tiny micro helicopter one just by bending it. yes I am clumsy.
 

whatlep

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MRail said:
The covers moved but would not open - both halves seem to be attached to internal components.
I've replaced the screws & that's it for me.

Good decision! The attached article is well worth a read on generic characteristics of Li-ion cells. http://iccnexergy.com/articles/1244/lithium-ion-battery-assembly-challenges/ Both the cell types I've purchased on eBay have the required safety/protective devices mentioned in the article. Standalone Li-ion cells sold on eBay often do not.
 

MRail

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