LGB track, removing joiner and clean track joint in preparation for Split Jaws..

I have been for years chopping off the Tab with a Junior File then whacking out with the Lump Hammer. The simplicity of using a bit of Rail, a Vice and Screwdriver just beats the lot. Well found greggk.
JonD
 
KeithT said:
It should be easy to check the conductivity or otherwise of both the LGB/Piko and Coppaslip pastes by measuring the conductivity with a meter.
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I did just that some time ago. I bought samples of various graphite paste, Coppaslip, the LGB paste etc. No conductivity in any of them that I could measure. They work by excluding oxygen and water from the joint.

The Piko stuff is marked as Poll-Fett, which is battery terminal grease and therefore probably available cheaper in that guise from car spare shops etc. I looked at the specs for various brands eg. Liqui-Moly, I can find no mention of electrical conductivity characteristics.
 
nicebutdim said:
I've used Graphite grease and Copper slip, please believe me, they both do the same thing; keep the moisture out and keep the joint clean. They both work well, no differences after 3 years on the undisturbed joints on my layout.
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I'm up to 7 years using the same method. Important you clean old rails/fishplates/clamps on their mating surfaces first before applying paste. Max.
 
maxi-model said:
I'm up to 7 years using the same method. Important you clean old rails/fishplates/clamps on their mating surfaces first before applying paste. Max.
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Oh dear! As usual when rail jointing is being discussed this subject of ??? brand of so called conductive grease raises its head across a number of forums with almost monotonous regularity. There is no truth whatsoever in the claim that some magical properties make one track jointing grease more measurably conductive than another. In fact most radio amateurs would find the idea of a specifically conductive graphite grease particularly amusing. If it were available in small affordable quantities there would be a standard table of values listing the various greases and their conductivity. Most aerial riggers and radio enthusiasts use a standard flexible silicon based (usually white) grease to keep out the weather. Pumping relatively high voltages up into a completely exposed, all metal, (usually ally/copper) constructed and weather beaten antenna systems, with lord only knows how much extremely expensive hardware sitting on the "grounded" end, makes continuity and maximum conductivity absolutely critical. High resistance means effectively blown amplifiers and very nicely cooked transmitters. Therefore, if there were such a beast as specifically conductive grease, believe me we would all know about it and probably be using it. keeping out the air and water with a film of decent waterproof grease which allows some natural expansion movement without cracking is about the best that can be done. I use soft silicon grease for both rail and antenna joints. None have failed yet and I have been using it for over 30 years.
 
Enginehouse said:
Oh dear! As usual when rail jointing is being discussed this subject of ??? brand of so called conductive grease raises its head across a number of forums with almost monotonous regularity. There is no truth whatsoever in the claim that some magical properties make one track jointing grease more measurably conductive than another. In fact most radio amateurs would find the idea of a specifically conductive graphite grease particularly amusing. If it were available in small affordable quantities there would be a standard table of values listing the various greases and their conductivity. Most aerial riggers and radio enthusiasts use a standard flexible silicon based (usually white) grease to keep out the weather. Pumping relatively high voltages up into a completely exposed, all metal, (usually ally/copper) constructed and weather beaten antenna systems, with lord only knows how much extremely expensive hardware sitting on the "grounded" end, makes continuity and maximum conductivity absolutely critical. High resistance means effectively blown amplifiers and very nicely cooked transmitters. Therefore, if there were such a beast as specifically conductive grease, believe me we would all know about it and probably be using it. keeping out the air and water with a film of decent waterproof grease which allows some natural expansion movement without cracking is about the best that can be done. I use soft silicon grease for both rail and antenna joints. None have failed yet and I have been using it for over 30 years.
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Nice one Roy.. ;D ;D ;D

Now, IF there WAS a section of 'All you need to know', then this would be a candidate!
;) :D ;D ;D
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but did anyone actually say that any of these pastes are actually conductive? Everyone above has sung from the same hymn sheet that all is needed is exclude moisture and as much air as possible from the joint, whether it is Graphite grease, copper slip/ease, silicon grease or anything else that doesn't dry up. The idea is just to keep a clean metal to metal contact within the joint, simples. :D
 
Post 16?
 
Normally, I can have something within my reach and still not see it ;D
 
trammayo said:
Normally, I can have something within my reach and still not see it ;D
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I usually find it is already in my hand. Or searching for a pencil that is behind my ear. :-\
 
Thank heavens I'm not alone ;D
 
Well I was so inspired by the idea of split jaws, I went and purchased one hundred and used them with some little used aristo/REA track I had in the dungeon, as the joiners were easy to remove, and, in some cases, way too thin/brittle anyway. (I am reluctant to alter my LGB items until I have greater knowledge about replacing all the joiners, as the factory 'lock' of the dimple will forever be gone.)

Let me say, I have mixed feelings. I have used LGB, with and without grease over the past 25 years, in seasonal , or a few multi year layouts, and im finding only slightly better performance thus far regarding alignment and conductivity compared to nice tight, clean, LGB joiners. OTOH, there are no widening gaps from train movements.

Being fully mobile physically and having no issues being on the ground or on my knees, these clamps are a bit more of a PITA, in terms of alignment, tightening and overall ease in install, than I had expected.

OTOH, I will wait with baited breath to see how winter and extreme wet conditions affect the efficacy of the new clamps, which I hope is great.
 
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