LGB track, removing joiner and clean track joint in preparation for Split Jaws..

G

greggk

Registered
Hi all,
Finally going outdoors, my LGB track is a variety of ages and some are oxidized. Cleaning/polishing the rails is self explanatory and manageable, what I'm wondering is what about the actual joiner attached to the track rail? I'm concerned about the "inside" of the joiners and how to clean that area, and I guess I would need to clean the side of the rails where the joiners would slide against. Would it be better to replace all the joiners? I was planning on using the SplitJaw over rail... as I write this I'm now thinking maybe remove all the joiners and use standard on rail joiners not over joiner would be best?

Additionally, what is the best method to remove and or replace the LGB joiners? They have that tab bent downwards and the tie tab preventing it from coming out?

Thanks
 
::) To successfully remove an LGB rail joiner, you realisticaly need to take the piece of track out from the layout. Flip it over, and you will see a 'dimple' on the bottom of the joiner. This effectively stops the rail from sliding. You need to drill through the dimple part of the joiner, so that the rail is then free to slide along in the sleeper base. Do that, and the whole joiner will then just lift out. Removing joiners from turnouts is not so simple though.
 
When you remove your joiners, clean the rail endwith vinegar, or ketchup/brown sauce....
 
I simply lightly clamp the joiner in a vice, then place a screwdriver at the rail end and tap the rail out using a hammer. It's quick, easy and no damage to rail or joiner.
 
If you have a mini drill, e.g. Dremel, Minicraft, etc', handy you can use one of their brass wire brush attachments to clean the rail ends where the clamps' surfaces mate to them. Makes light work of the job. Don't forget a little smear of the good old LGB graphite paste or "Coppergrease" on these surfaces before clamping up if you want years of trouble free electrical conductivity. Max.
 
Removing the joiners can be tricky IF you want the joiners undamaged for possible re-use - but if you're clamping your entire track and are not worried about damaging the joiners, then I've found the simple way of removing them is to spread the sides of the joiner apart with a pair of pointed-nose pliers, then grip the flat bottom of the joiner firmly in the same pliers and twist downwards - the joiner will pull off the end of the rail with the downward motion freeing the locking tab. Once you've done a couple of them, the required motion becomes very quick and easy, the only downside is that the joiner is pretty mangled afterwards and not much good to re-use!

The follow some of the tips above for cleaning up the rail-end prior to clamping.

Jon.
 
id go for removel of the lgb jioner, and replace with a split jaw/railclamp..im my experiances, its the best sultion..
 
nicebutdim said:
I simply lightly clamp the joiner in a vice, then place a screwdriver at the rail end and tap the rail out using a hammer. It's quick, easy and no damage to rail or joiner.
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;) I too, have used the 'quick whack' method described. It works, but for a beginner, probably a tad risky.
 
greggk said:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CXyCjhh0QFs
Click to expand...

So simple - I will have to remember this non-destructive method!
 
Gizzy said:
When you remove your joiners, clean the rail endwith vinegar, or ketchup/brown sauce....
Click to expand...

Lick clean.............................. ;)
 
Yes, that works. It's the same method as Playmobil had in their instruction sheets for their manual isolating switch. I was unable to find a copy to scan and post.
 
Remember when using LGB track use LGB or now Piko conductive graphite paste. normal graphite paste or Copper slip witch is a anti seize compound is not the same and will not improve the electrical contact as do LGB and Piko paste.
 
Railway42 said:
Remember when using LGB track use LGB or now Piko conductive graphite paste. normal graphite paste or Copper slip witch is a anti seize compound is not the same and will not improve the electrical contact as do LGB and Piko paste.
Click to expand...
I *think* you will find the grease is not conductive, but just keeps the joint oxygen-free, so reducing the corrosion which is the eventual cause of problems??
 
I've used Graphite grease and Copper slip, please believe me, they both do the same thing; keep the moisture out and keep the joint clean. They both work well, no differences after 3 years on the undisturbed joints on my layout.
 
It should be easy to check the conductivity or otherwise of both the LGB/Piko and Coppaslip pastes by measuring the conductivity with a meter.
 
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