LGB Track R1 or not R1

T

Tizaker

Registered
Hi All,
I've been told to stay away from using R1 (LGB, Aristocraft etc) track and go for a larger radius. Garden size is an issue although R2s would fit but reduce the overall running scope . Should I bin the R1 approach (use them for sidings and for other creative ideas of which I've none to date) or can they be made to work pleasingly in a smaller garden? My wish is to run small Locos and stock or should I say can only run small trains . I've 24 pieces of R1 and 12 R2s to date.
As usual your comments and advice much appreciated.
Rob
 
Use your R1s unless you are planning to run really long bogie vehicles (> 500mm). With single motor locos and 300-330mm long rolling stock it'll be absolutely fine.

If you have any doubts, look at yb281's Wetton Gooey line or Mike's Lazy Grange Bay, both of which use R1s extensively on their main lines.
 
If you've got the space, go for the biggest you can.

If not then R1/R2 work fine. I have a twin track main line of R1/R2. I've stuck to smaller Bo-Bo NG locos and shorter wagons so it doesn't look out of place with huge overhangs.

You sometimes have to go with what you've got....
 
There is nothing wrong with R1 track, in fact it suits small locos and trams very well. I have had no trouble with it over the years and it makes depots nicely compact. I have a depot using R5s and it takes up three times the space.
The only thing to remember is you cannot run the larger locos, although things like the LGB Mallet are still happy on R1s and do not loook out of place either.
If you are laying a permamant track it is however good advice to use the biggest radius that will fit in your space.

This is my R1 depot, currently dismantled but it will be back!
Syd
f927d6dfa80546a28418d602a71aaf76.jpg
 
as has been mentioned above, for not too long rolling stock, R1 is just fine.
for over 40 years my stuff ran mainly on R1 curves.
what me personally disturbs most with R1 curves, is that at the point, where a straight becomes a curve, the trains look like they are bein yanked sideways.

so, where ever i got enough space, i put first a R3, than a R2 curve, before i make the rest of the curve with R1s. (and i like to hide sharp curves in tunnels)
the smoother transition looks nicer to me.
 
first look inside your soul,,,, if you have any deep hidden passions for american freight trains crossing the desert plains or winding through mountain passes,,,

or the sound of a k27 as it slowly rumbles by,,,, its bell clanging, telling you to get out of the way or i will squish you,,,,,

forget r1, forget r2 forget r3,,,,,,, go for r5,,,,,,

go on ,,, you know it makes sense,,,
 
Most folks here know my feelings on this one, I'm with Gizzy.......

............go for the largest that you can.

I was advised in the first instance to go large, which in my case meant a minimum of LGB R3. It's not very often that I heed advice, but in this instance I'm glad that I did :bigsmile::bigsmile::bigsmile::bigsmile::bigsmile:
 
sometimes r1 is all you can use,,, great if you stick to starter set type stuff,,,,,
 
which is great!!!!!!!

unless the dark satanic urges that is a sd45 lurks deep within.........
 
i have a temp layout at my parents with a couple of stains and 4 wheel stock

cant run anything other than r1 due to space restrictions

grankids love it,,,
 
I run R1. I'm also running some American trains... admittedly, smaller locos, but bogie stock. The only problem I have is with reverse curves that do not have a straight between them (and cross overs).... and this is only with the Thomas series trains. LGB, Bachmann, USAT, and Aristocraft all work fine, for me. Check out Taita Gorge Railway.
 
It would always be nice to use the largest radii but where space is at a premium then it's better to have R1 than none at all. It won't take much more room to, as suggested by Korm to do the "poor man's transition" and using R3's and/or R2's to transition into the R1's. Kind of the best of both worlds!
 
I've eliminated most of my R1's on the garden layout but my trailer layout is all R1's (points and all), including a reverse curve! It works OK - because it is effectively single track - but you do have to make allowances for buildings if placing them near curves (I have knocked off the odd step or two on my Aristo Sierra coaches!).

d89836e8fbc54febb61ef44e305be151.jpg


Bachmann - 1.22 stuff - works fine (apart from the 45 ton centre cab which had to be surgically slimmed down - and the Thomas range needs the oversize couplings supplied).
 
It depends on your long time goals, if you plan to run small engines and stock, R1s are agreat and inexpensive way to build a very operable layout. But if your dream is to run big steamers or big dismals and long freight car and long streamliner cars, then yes you had better plan on going as wide as possible. I have been in this for over 10 years now, never bought anything over R1
 
Even if you don't have plans now for larger /longer stock, you will! The temptation will be too great, and so if you can design the layout now for R3, you should. I started with R1 at a time when the only R3 points that LGB made were electric - something I couldn't then afford. I have subsequently upgraded to R3 or even R5 but shoehorning in the larger radius into existing station layouts without losing too much loop length has been a real effort. The other thing is that if you buy bogie stock in due course, it will have a significant centre throw which 4 wheel stuff doesn't - again, plan for that in placing lineside structures.

Graham H
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom