LGB Track power terminals

You should be able to find these on your side of the pond.

Massoth 8100121

Thanks for the tip, John,
From the size I deduce these are for Code 330 rail.

I've been sawing the smaller Code 250 ones in half to 'make' a similar product (with a washer of course).

I shall leave a few on the rails over the wet English winter, to see how their conductivity fares, but suspect I'll need to take them all off until there's an electric running session actually on the calendar. David
 
Thanks for the tip, John,
From the size I deduce these are for Code 330 rail.

I've been sawing the smaller Code 250 ones in half to 'make' a similar product (with a washer of course).

I shall leave a few on the rails over the wet English winter, to see how their conductivity fares, but suspect I'll need to take them all off until there's an electric running session actually on the calendar. David
When I was on track power I never took any clamps off over the winter. If you use Graphite paste where they toch the rails even better to protect against corrosion. In fact taking them off will allow corrosion to attack where you have taken the off.
 
When I was on track power I never took any clamps off over the winter. If you use Graphite paste where they toch the rails even better to protect against corrosion. In fact taking them off will allow corrosion to attack where you have taken the off.

Definitely! With a little dab of a suitable anti-corrosion paste (LGB graphite paste, copper slip grease or similar) in the clamp, you shouldn't have any problems for years...

Jon.
 
Definitely! With a little dab of a suitable anti-corrosion paste (LGB graphite paste, copper slip grease or similar) in the clamp, you shouldn't have any problems for years...

Jon.
Jon and all, I have a tub of LGB graphite grease.
All my track is well-weathered, i.e. brown nickel-silver.
Would you advise me to clean the rail back to shiny before applying the grease and fitting the connectors, please?
 
Yes, clean the rail ends where the clamps will be as well as you can - last time I did some I used a handheld wire brush (one of the "toothbrush-shaped" ones - just don't get them mixed up... :devil: ) and some Kilrock Gel, which is a pretty aggressive limescale remover that you can get in DIY stores - do be careful with it, wear heavy rubber gloves and eye protection, it's effective stuff but rather unpleasant! The combination did a very good job of restoring the ends of some heavily weathered track, before I fitted the clamps (with a dab of graphite) onto the cleaned rail ends.

If your joints and clamps are clean and good, you shouldn't have conductivity problems, you'll then just need to keep the railhead clean with a track cleaning block.

Jon.
 
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