LGB Toy Train wagons, coming uncoupled

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playmofire

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I run LGB Toy Train wagons because they are shorter than other types and so better for my size of layouts. However, there always seems to be a wagon which comes uncoupled - I run them as they come, hook only one end and hook and loop the other.

This seems to be a problem with the wagon concerned rather than the layout, as the same wagon will act the same on a different layout.

Changing the coupling for one from a wagon which doesn't uncouple, seems to make no difference.

I'm reluctant to change to a hook and loop at each end as this complicates shunting manoeuvres.
 
playmofire said:
I run LGB Toy Train wagons because they are shorter than other types and so better for my size of layouts. However, there always seems to be a wagon which comes uncoupled - I run them as they come, hook only one end and hook and loop the other.

This seems to be a problem with the wagon concerned rather than the layout, as the same wagon will act the same on a different layout.

Changing the coupling for one from a wagon which doesn't uncouple, seems to make no difference.

I'm reluctant to change to a hook and loop at each end as this complicates shunting manoeuvres.
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Sometime the spring weakens in these meaning that the hook is not in direct contact with the bar below. Get close down for a good eyeball, if there is the slightest gap between the two that can be your problem. Tirning the spring over generally resolves the issue as they can flex over time. But and a real but hooks on both ends and nine on locomotives are your saviour for reliability. Drop the loco loop down by 20-30 thou with a piece of plasticard and unwanted uncoupling is pretty well a thing of the past. Uncoupling with an old flat knife is a breeze.
image.jpg
 
dunnyrail said:
Sometime the spring weakens in these meaning that the hook is not in direct contact with the bar below. Get close down for a good eyeball, if there is the slightest gap between the two that can be your problem. Tirning the spring over generally resolves the issue as they can flex over time. But and a real but hooks on both ends and nine on locomotives are your saviour for reliability. Drop the loco loop down by 20-30 thou with a piece of plasticard and unwanted uncoupling is pretty well a thing of the past. Uncoupling with an old flat knife is a breeze.
View attachment 289082
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Thanks, Jon, I shall give that a try with my LGB Spremberger. Unfortunately, the Playmobil locos have the coupling loop through the buffer bar, but I have thought of adding a bit of plasticard to make the loop deeper on these locos. I have come across hook and loop set-ups where the loop has a v-notch in the in the middle, presumably to allow the hook to sit higher.

I'd prefer to avoid double hooks as only one side of the layout will be easily accessible, but the knife idea is a nice on(or maybe a knice one).
 
playmofire said:
Thanks, Jon, I shall give that a try with my LGB Spremberger. Unfortunately, the Playmobil locos have the coupling loop through the buffer bar, but I have thought of adding a bit of plasticard to make the loop deeper on these locos. I have come across hook and loop set-ups where the loop has a v-notch in the in the middle, presumably to allow the hook to sit higher.

I'd prefer to avoid double hooks as only one side of the layout will be easily accessible, but the knife idea is a nice on(or maybe a knice one).
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Depends what PM loc it is, with the battery diesel I just pulled the coupling out and turned it upside down. Perfect resukt.
 
dunnyrail said:
Depends what PM loc it is, with the battery diesel I just pulled the coupling out and turned it upside down. Perfect resukt.
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The loop varied over time and so I have some that I can turn upside and the problem for that loco is solved, but others have the shallower loop.
 
I did ponder over the one I turned over before I worked that out, another possible solution is some Plasticard to make the loop a bit deeper was a top runner.
 
Check your springs I reckon?

I double hook all my stock.

For shunting, I use 2 LGB uncoupling ramps together, or my GIZTOOL.

Works for me....
 
I have a lot of R3 curves and I just fit double couplers and then use one of these to uncouple, because bending down is too much like hard work.

The plastic is soft enough that It won't damage anything and you can use them to switch manual and electric points as well.


1649111151826.png
 
Just as a note on LGB coupling springs, they can get deformed, particularly with storage, but they will retake their original shape (or close to it) after a few seconds in a small pot of boiling water.

I tend to cool them by running them under the cold tap, then they just go straight back on.

it can also help with other parts made in the same plastic (Bernina coaches, I'm looking at you)
 
craigwrdouglas2 said:
Just as a note on LGB coupling springs, they can get deformed, particularly with storage, but they will retake their original shape (or close to it) after a few seconds in a small pot of boiling water.

I tend to cool them by running them under the cold tap, then they just go straight back on.

it can also help with other parts made in the same plastic (Bernina coaches, I'm looking at you)
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Interesting, I just turn the springs over. Ok so it is a pain getting them in and out but it has worked quite well for me.
 
craigwrdouglas2 said:
Just as a note on LGB coupling springs, they can get deformed, particularly with storage
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I've suffered from this myself. I used some sections cut from cardboard paper towel rolls doubled up and stapled together for storage of some wagons. The ones that came in the old style boxes. This serves the same function as the heavy duty cardboard piece that protected the original single hook seen on the left below.

Hook protection - 1.jpeg

The other packaging that is a real problem for double hooks are the box inserts for RhB twin axle container wagons. There is just not enough room for the hook in its normal position even with a hole cut in the insert on the end that originally did not have a hook. I deformed quite a few springs before I started releasing the spring from the hook and swinging the hook to the side before putting the wagons away. The spring can be released quite easily for storage and is just as easily replaced for operation. No screwdriver needed, just your fingers. I did cut away a bit of the cardboard base to give clearance for the hook's bottom tang. See the pics below.

Hook protection - 1 (1).jpeg Hook protection - 1 (3).jpeg Hook protection - 1 (4).jpeg Hook protection - 1 (2).jpeg
 
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phils2um said:
I've suffered from this myself. I used some sections cut from cardboard paper towel rolls doubled up and stapled together for storage of some wagons. The ones that came in the old style boxes. This serves the same function as the heavy duty cardboard piece that protected the original single hook.

View attachment 297033

The other packaging that is a real problem for double hooks are the box inserts for RhB twin axle container wagons. There is just not enough room for the hook in its normal position even with a hole cut in the insert on the end that originally did not have a hook. I deformed quite a few springs before I started releasing the spring from the hook and swinging the hook to the side before putting the wagon away. The spring can be released quite easily for storage and is just as easily replaced for operation. I did cut away a bit of the cardboard base to give clearance for the hook's bottom tang. See the pics below.

View attachment 297038 View attachment 297036 View attachment 297037 View attachment 297035
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Yes that is a big issue with LGB boxes, for long term storage and when I have moved I removed the coupling at one end leaving it loose in the box.
 
dunnyrail said:
Interesting, I just turn the springs over. Ok so it is a pain getting them in and out but it has worked quite well for me.
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The spring is designed to go in one way only with the tab for the screw offset (vertically) to sit in the recess.
 
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