LGB Starter set transformer point of failure?

Hutch

G Gauge, Raising Peaches, Apricots
I use the starter set transformers for auto-reverse and pizza size layouts with 0-4-0 Stainz and 2017 size locomotives, or even smaller power draw units like Hartland pickup trucks. UNHAPPILY the 5001 and 5003 120 volt units seem to last only 6 to 10 months. The 1st one failed when inadvertently left plugged in overnight even though set to zero (which I foolishly assumed was off). Since then I have lost 3 with various failure symptoms. I now have one that will start running an 0-4-0 LGB engine slowly then stop after about 30 minutes. Have swapped engines and measured current draw at about .30 amp.

The question is, does anyone know what the failing component is likely to be?

Or should I just get used low power transformers of another manufacturer?

I haven't had an Aristocraft or Hartland starter set power pack fail yet, but the only ones I have are in use.
 
Wrong side of the pond, so ours are rated 230 volts..

All I can say is we run these when we have a Christmas layout.. They sit on snow-blanket, and get so warm you are not able to keep your freezing fingers on them for any length of time..
Not had a single failure to my knowledge.
Not a lot of help, I know. Sorry!
 
Perhaps time to buy a more powerful item.
 
We can only give advice on the 240v version, but they are pretty low current, and I melted one with an Aristo C16 (early version)
 
Over the years I have found that the LGB starter set controller can over heat if placed on a flat service for a long time. This is because no air is getting to cool the bottom of the controller. Try putting under the bottom at each end a piece of wood so there is a gap under the controller so that cooling air can get under it. This may not work but it is worth a try.
 
I wonder if it is the transformer, or the controller that is failing?
Or even if one of the above has a problem, and it is that causing the other unit(s) to fail?

Though I agree, there is not a lot to them..
 
I wonder if it is the transformer, or the controller that is failing?
Or even if one of the above has a problem, and it is that causing the other unit(s) to fail?

Though I agree, there is not a lot to them..
I have been using a secondhand one of these on my shuttle tram unit for at least 8yrs and it runs all day with no problem.I don't know why you have this problem.
 
I'm sure it's something I'm doing or the Rural Electric Association power. Our power is 130 volts nominal with excursions +5v and -10v. I am going to put the train on a variac @ 120v to see if cleaner power helps. When my wife worked from home her (from 2005 until earlier this year) we ran and still run the network and computer equipment on a UPS, as well as our home entertainment equipment.

THANK YOU for all your help and advice, ---Hutch
 
After putting the variac in line and discovering that I had forgotten about lighting being on the AC side of the transformer, I replaced a burnt out lamp (which brightened the other lamps in the circuit ? ). It has run for 4+ hours today without slowing down, stopping or other failures.
 
Perhaps time to buy a more powerful item.

It failed about an hour after I (in great exultation) posted that it was fixed. Although only warm to the touch, It did reset after being put on the 22 degree fahrenheit (-5.5 C) doorstep for a while. Am putting a vintage 100 watt (overkill) American Flier power supply in its place. AND YES S-Gauge came in DC as well as AC. It was normally referred to as S-Scale rather than Gauge.
 
If it reset...
I didn't think there was a (thermal) cut-out in the transformer? - Only in the controller..

The controller does get warm, and has been stated, if you put it on a couple of strips of wood, it helps air circulation. - A 'bodge' is to stand it on its' side.
 
so you were running more than just the loco from the transformer.... sure seems you are overloading the transformer

Yes, I had forgotten about the 3 LGB Station Lights (6 lamps), but only one loco, the picture is the entire layout supplied by that unit, it was definitely overloaded. The picture is the entire layout powered by that transformer.
It turns out that the 5003/110 is only 1/2 amp total output including the AC outlets. The newer 50081 (red knob) is 1 amp total output.

I keep feeling like that if vintage HO controllers have 2 to 3 amps that any G-gauge powerpack should have more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MARX-VINTA...661040&hash=item4b32b39870:g:BJ4AAOSwH-daHNR1

My apologies to everyone for my foolishness.
 
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If it reset...
I didn't think there was a (thermal) cut-out in the transformer? - Only in the controller..

The controller does get warm, and has been stated, if you put it on a couple of strips of wood, it helps air circulation. - A 'bodge' is to stand it on its' side.

Actually the grey box on the left in the picture is all there is, it plugs straight into the wall. Unlike the newer controls this is a one unit powerpack,
 
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I use the starter set transformers for auto-reverse and pizza size layouts with 0-4-0 Stainz and 2017 size locomotives, or even smaller power draw units like Hartland pickup trucks. UNHAPPILY the 5001 and 5003 120 volt units seem to last only 6 to 10 months. The 1st one failed when inadvertently left plugged in overnight even though set to zero (which I foolishly assumed was off). Since then I have lost 3 with various failure symptoms. I now have one that will start running an 0-4-0 LGB engine slowly then stop after about 30 minutes. Have swapped engines and measured current draw at about .30 amp.

The question is, does anyone know what the failing component is likely to be?

Or should I just get used low power transformers of another manufacturer?

I haven't had an Aristocraft or Hartland starter set power pack fail yet, but the only ones I have are in use.

Thinking out of the box could the line frequency be an issue i.e. Eurpoean 50 Hz US 60
Hz? If there is a transformer the different frequencies will cause heating problems.
A check of the input/output specs might shed some light on the issue.
 
The LGB 5003 and the 50081 do have thermal breakers inside. The 50081 is 1 amp but only has DC output.
I would suggest a separate power source for lights like the 5003 and then the 50081 for the track power.
 
The later type transformers are sealed units filled with tar cannot repair quite messy melting out tried that
 
On this subject can any one tell me how to get inside a 50080/50081. I'm sure I did it once to fix the terminals but I cannot remember how I did it.
No such thing as "No user servicable components inside"
 
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