LGB Stainz loco motor block to circuit board connection

[The mechanic]

Have you tried for a job with your local electricity supply network?
The original AVOs were great, can you still get them?View attachment 277433

I already have one which I kept from my time as a lighting development engineer at Lucas Cannock.

Happy days!

 

[The mechanic]

Hi again Dave,

Ignore the comments I wrote on your picture in post 18. I realized the wires I pointed to are the ends of the wires from your motor block connector not yet soldered. These motor block connector wires need to be soldered to the "motor" pads circled below. Use the pic by Phil P. in post 10 as additional guidance. It shows the order in which the connector wires should be soldered to the four "motor" solder pads.
View attachment 277429

You can check for correctness by doing the following: Connect the off, lights, or lights and motor control switch to the board and set it to the lights and motor position. Plug the motor block connector onto the motor block. Set the interface board for DCC.

Your VOM should now measure no resistance between the ws pin on the motor block and the ws decoder harness pin on the interface board. You should have no resistance between the br pin on the motor block and the br decoder harness pin on the interface board. You should have no resistance between the gr pin on the motor block and the gr decoder harness pin on the interface board. And finally, you should have no resistance between the ge pin on the motor block and the ge decoder harness pin on the interface board.

Next, there should be an open, or high resistance between the br pin and the other three, ws, gr, and ge pins whether measured at the motor block or the decoder harness pins on the interface board. Likewise, there should be an open or high resistance between the ws pin and the other three br, gr, and ge pins.

Finally, you should see motor winding resistance between the gr, and ge pins whether measured at the motor block or the decoder harness pins on the interface board.

Reset the interface board for analog. It should now work with your analog controller.

As an aside, I realize from Phil P.'s pic in post 10 the two pins I've got circled are for connecting the lights, not the decoder harness. I should have looked more carefully.

Hi again Dave,

Ignore the comments I wrote on your picture in post 18. I realized the wires I pointed to are the ends of the wires from your motor block connector not yet soldered. These motor block connector wires need to be soldered to the "motor" pads circled below. Use the pic by Phil P. in post 10 as additional guidance. It shows the order in which the connector wires should be soldered to the four "motor" solder pads.
View attachment 277429

You can check for correctness by doing the following: Connect the off, lights, or lights and motor control switch to the board and set it to the lights and motor position. Plug the motor block connector onto the motor block. Set the interface board for DCC.

Your VOM should now measure no resistance between the ws pin on the motor block and the ws decoder harness pin on the interface board. You should have no resistance between the br pin on the motor block and the br decoder harness pin on the interface board. You should have no resistance between the gr pin on the motor block and the gr decoder harness pin on the interface board. And finally, you should have no resistance between the ge pin on the motor block and the ge decoder harness pin on the interface board.

Next, there should be an open, or high resistance between the br pin and the other three, ws, gr, and ge pins whether measured at the motor block or the decoder harness pins on the interface board. Likewise, there should be an open or high resistance between the ws pin and the other three br, gr, and ge pins.

Finally, you should see motor winding resistance between the gr, and ge pins whether measured at the motor block or the decoder harness pins on the interface board.

Reset the interface board for analog. It should now work with your analog controller.

As an aside, I realize from Phil P.'s pic in post 10 the two pins I've got circled are for connecting the lights, not the decoder harness. I should have looked more carefully.

Thanks for taking time to detail this Phil. The garage was getting a bit cold last night, had to use the soldering iron to keep warm! - Anyway, I ll have another check later on and let you know how I get on

Dave

 

[Dan]

All 4 wire stainz have the same wiring. The outer pins are motor and the 2 inner pins are track power. I would question the new board as the resistor above the 7 red switches appears to be burnt.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

If you look at the resistor that is in focus nearby it appears to be gold-black-black-gold..... look again closely at the out of focus one, the "burn" could well be the 2 black stripes out of focus.

Greg

 

[The mechanic]

Thanks for everyone who answered my post. I now know how the four wires are connected to a basic LGB motor block, which was the purpose of my original post.

Unfortunately once connected, the board did not work due to a fault somewhere within the electronics. At that point I cut my losses, dug out the vero-board and built a replacement that uses the original switch gear, some components and replacements as necessary. With the loco body in place you cannot tell it is a non-genuine board and best of all, it works just how I want it to, it also allowed me to fit LED forward and rear lighting!

Merry Christmas everyone and thanks again

Dave

 

[phils2um]

Glad you got it going!

With the loco body in place you cannot tell it is a non-genuine board

Just don't look under the covers.