LGB RhB 6/6 ii loco sound

[Thornhill]

I am thinking of buying the new, green LGB 6/6ii RhB electric loco 22062. I currently only operate DC locos. My query is can you turn the sound off, and/or adjust the volume, in DC (analogue) mode?
If I do take the frightening (for me) plunge into DCC, I presume you can turn the sound off in this mode but can you adjust the volume as well?
Any light on this matter would be gratefully received.

 

[dunnyrail]

Most Sound decoders have an option to turn the sound on and off, some with a confusing artay of 2 buttons one to turn on/off the other to start up the sound which can be confusing if you press the wrong one first IE start up the sound when it is not turned in. I ha e found this to be fun with both Massoth and Zimo decoders. Some decoders have a button for up and down of sound volume, my Massoth ones (admittedly a little older now) have a extra buy plug with Volume control Lever.

 

[idlemarvel]

According to the manual https://static.maerklin.de/damcontent/99/97/999783ec2d1809b6dd297b0c67b149681578565549.pdf by default sound is turned off for DC analog operations so you would need someone with DCC to turn it on for you. As far as I can tell there is no physical volume control. In DCC or mfx mode you have control over sound with function keys and CV settings. Someone who has one should confirm all this.

 

[mike]

There is no volume control fitted, you can alter the cv, if you know how, or ask your dealer, I find mine loud, for me, so will be lowering the cv value acordingly

 

[idlemarvel]

I guess if you were brave you could fit your own volume control / potentiometer then you could leave the CV settings at full volume. If you have DCC/mfx you can easily change the CV in flight using programming on main or whatever the equivalent is for mfx. Looking at the exploded parts diagram it looks like a bit of a beast to dismantle and given the price nerves of steel.

 

[PhilP]

I guess if you were brave you could fit your own volume control / potentiometer then you could leave the CV settings at full volume. If you have DCC/mfx you can easily change the CV in flight using programming on main or whatever the equivalent is for mfx. Looking at the exploded parts diagram it looks like a bit of a beast to dismantle and given the price nerves of steel.

But you STILL would need a DCC system, in order to set the 'volume' CV to recognise there is an external volume control..

I also believe the OP wanted the sound to be OFF, on his (presently) analogue line?

 

[KentKeith]

The manual for my 22062 says the following:

Functions:

This model is designed for operation on LGB two-rail DC systems with conventional LGB DC train controlers or power packs (DC, 0-24 volts)

Analog Operation:

This decoder can also be operated on analog layouts or areas of track that are analog. The decoder recognizes alternating current (DC) and automatically adapts to the analog track voltage. All functions that were set under mfx or DCC for analog operation are active (which probably means that that is no problem if you want to run it on dcc of mfx at a later date)

The built-in sound functions come from the factory inactive for analog operation

So, to keep it simple, you can run it on analogue but you don't get any sound. If later you want to go dcc, no problem, you can do that. These models are clever things these days!

Problem solved I think.

 

[KentKeith]

Forgot to say that it's a great model:



If you do get one and then decide to go dcc (or mfx if are a Maerklin fan), like Mike, I found the sound to be rather on the loud side so changed CV63 to 220.

 

[wandgrudd]

Just to butt in gents have you taken a look under the hood so to speak, noticed we now seem to be using 12volt motors still of the buhler verity, thought it a bit odd?

 

[Thornhill]

Just to butt in gents have you taken a look under the hood so to speak, noticed we now seem to be using 12volt motors still of the buhler verity, thought it a bit odd?

 

[Thornhill]

Thanks for all the comments - it helps my understanding.
I'm still a bit confused as I have a friend who has bought the red one and he says he can't turn the sound off (sound on is apparently default), although I haven't yet seen (or heard) the loco running myself yet. He was also very keen to find a way of turning the sound off in DC mode. He currently runs ony DC although hopes to go DCC sometime soon. Perhaps I should bite the bullet and go DCC although I have about 10 other LGB locos and are all DC. I haven't bought one for a while!
DCC is still a worrying leap for me (I know..). A dealer of my acquaintance recommends MTS3, I think.

 

[wandgrudd]

Thanks for all the comments - it helps my understanding.
I'm still a bit confused as I have a friend who has bought the red one and he says he can't turn the sound off (sound on is apparently default), although I haven't yet seen (or heard) the loco running myself yet. He was also very keen to find a way of turning the sound off in DC mode. He currently runs ony DC although hopes to go DCC sometime soon. Perhaps I should bite the bullet and go DCC although I have about 10 other LGB locos and are all DC. I haven't bought one for a while!
DCC is still a worrying leap for me (I know..). A dealer of my acquaintance recommends MTS3, I think.

That there is the problem with LGB now going full on down the MFX/DCC route the DC guys are being left behind a little, as noted with this model LGB have done away with the volume control so the only way to alter it is with MFX/DCC thus if you do want this loco my only suggestion would be to see if someone local could help set it up for you.

Or as per you comment bite the bullet and go MFX/DCC, you are missing out a bit keeping this loco on plain DC it has some very nice sounds and light effects that simply can’t be accessed on DC, for what it’s worth I can’t see this going out of stock any time soon for my money I would go DCC then later get the loco.

But think carefully on MTS3 its getting old now and although it is the way I initially went (and was a fantastic start in to DCC), it’s something that I have now had to replace as its limited on the number of loco`s it can store (28 being the max) and is limited on what programming you can do with the new LGB MFX system (not so much limited but more long winded way of programming) . But if you see your upgrade path of new locos to be a slow one a second hand MTS 3 setup and a pc module to programme the locos wouldn’t be a bad way to start, while you learn the basics it took me a good 7 years for me to reach the limit with MTS3.

Where are you in the world I am sure we will have someone reasonably local that can assist if needed.



Andrew.

 

[dunnyrail]

Every one will have their favorite DCC system and say it is the best and the only one to consider. That one has not got enough power, that one will not take enough locomotives, oh you can use your smart phone as a handset with that one (likely the worst advice as the phone is pretty well useless for vision in full sun) - get the drift?

Best way is to just get a system that will work with G and that you can afford. Perhaps MTS3 is getting a bit old but it will allow you a reasonable priced entry and most importantly get you into DCC right now in a pretty simple seamless way. I started with MTS2 and then gravitated to Massoth after around 8 or 10 years.

I now await the outcry of disgust and advice as mentioned in my first paragraph!

Oh and never even mentioned on board Battery Power once!

 

[Thornhill]

Every one will have their favorite DCC system and say it is the best and the only one to consider. That one has not got enough power, that one will not take enough locomotives, oh you can use your smart phone as a handset with that one (likely the worst advice as the phone is pretty well useless for vision in full sun) - get the drift?

Best way is to just get a system that will work with G and that you can afford. Perhaps MTS3 is getting a bit old but it will allow you a reasonable priced entry and most importantly get you into DCC right now in a pretty simple seamless way. I started with MTS2 and then gravitated to Massoth after around 8 or 10 years.

I now await the outcry of disgust and advice as mentioned in my first paragraph!

Oh and never even mentioned on board Battery Power once!
[/QUOTE

 

[Thornhill]

Sorry if I posted a blank just now!
Thanks wandgrudd and Dunnyrail for today's comments - very useful. It seems I should go DCC route. I presume if I turn sound off via DCC controls loco will then run silently on DCC if I want (eg when running on friend's DC line). The said dealer knows me and would set up loco for me (he is experienced LGB repair agent). I think, because he knows me, he suggested MTS3 as a simpler and cheaper way in to DCC. I am now slightly worried about whether I need a PC (computer I presume) as, after my ancient PC laptop died recently, I bought a Mac computer because of friends recommendations as to it being a more stable and secure (I am going to gave to bite the bullet on online banking too) system. But who knows - I don't. I have a simple android Samsung mobile phone and am considering a cheapish Samsung tablet to buy. Would either of these work with setting up MTS3, I wonder, if a PC is really necessary to do this.
I live in Finchley, north London. My 32mm garden railway is live steam and battery loco (with and without radio control) operated. No track power needed. All very straightforward, control wise. However, iver the years, forces beyond my control have made me buy LGB and some other G scale locos and I currently gave a very small indoor layout - but can go visiting. Might build a small 45mm garden layout but hoped from house move out of London obviously now on hold.

 

[PhilP]

If sound is set to be 'ON' when running on DC, it will be 'ON' when running on your Friends DC track, even if you have turned it 'OFF' with DCC on your track..

DCC allows you to 'set' what is 'ON', or working, when running on DC. So:
Are lights to be on?
Is sound to be on?
Is smoke (if applicable) to be on?
etc.

You can set this, by altering a CV value. - So you could run with sound 'ON' on your home-DCC track, but by having set the CV for sound to be 'OFF' when running on DC, your loco would be silent on your Friends DC track.

PhilP.

 

[Thornhill]

If sound is set to be 'ON' when running on DC, it will be 'ON' when running on your Friends DC track, even if you have turned it 'OFF' with DCC on your track..

DCC allows you to 'set' what is 'ON', or working, when running on DC. So:
Are lights to be on?
Is sound to be on?
Is smoke (if applicable) to be on?
etc.

You can set this, by altering a CV value. - So you could run with sound 'ON' on your home-DCC track, but by having set the CV for sound to be 'OFF' when running on DC, your loco would be silent on your Friends DC track.

PhilP.

Thanks PhilP. My understanding grows by the hour. This forum is wonderful.

 

[Gizzy]

Sorry if I posted a blank just now!
Thanks wandgrudd and Dunnyrail for today's comments - very useful. It seems I should go DCC route. I presume if I turn sound off via DCC controls loco will then run silently on DCC if I want (eg when running on friend's DC line). The said dealer knows me and would set up loco for me (he is experienced LGB repair agent). I think, because he knows me, he suggested MTS3 as a simpler and cheaper way in to DCC. I am now slightly worried about whether I need a PC (computer I presume) as, after my ancient PC laptop died recently, I bought a Mac computer because of friends recommendations as to it being a more stable and secure (I am going to gave to bite the bullet on online banking too) system. But who knows - I don't. I have a simple android Samsung mobile phone and am considering a cheapish Samsung tablet to buy. Would either of these work with setting up MTS3, I wonder, if a PC is really necessary to do this.
I live in Finchley, north London. My 32mm garden railway is live steam and battery loco (with and without radio control) operated. No track power needed. All very straightforward, control wise. However, iver the years, forces beyond my control have made me buy LGB and some other G scale locos and I currently gave a very small indoor layout - but can go visiting. Might build a small 45mm garden layout but hoped from house move out of London obviously now on hold.

You do not need a PC with MTS 3, although you can operate your layout with PC-MTS software which I have done. I doubt you will get it to work with a tablet though, as you need Com ports, which an older PC will have, but a tablet won't.

If you can buy the MTS for around £100-200, then you will have a cheap way of operating your Ge 6/6 as well as older LGB MTS and DC locos....

 

[LGeoB]

Every one will have their favorite DCC system and say it is the best and the only one to consider. That one has not got enough power, that one will not take enough locomotives, oh you can use your smart phone as a handset with that one (likely the worst advice as the phone is pretty well useless for vision in full sun) - get the drift?

Best way is to just get a system that will work with G and that you can afford. Perhaps MTS3 is getting a bit old but it will allow you a reasonable priced entry and most importantly get you into DCC right now in a pretty simple seamless way. I started with MTS2 and then gravitated to Massoth after around 8 or 10 years.

I now await the outcry of disgust and advice as mentioned in my first paragraph!

Oh and never even mentioned on board Battery Power once!

Actually here in Perth, WA which has very bright and hot summers, I have no problem using iPhones with touch cab to control garden trains. I'm not sure but I think the screens are polarised which helps.

Geoff

 

[Thornhill]

You do not need a PC with MTS 3, although you can operate your layout with PC-MTS software which I have done. I doubt you will get it to work with a tablet though, as you need Com ports, which an older PC will have, but a tablet won't.

If you can buy the MTS for around £100-200, then you will have a cheap way of operating your Ge 6/6 as well as older LGB MTS and DC locos....

Thanks Gizzy for further useful enligtenment.