LGB rail (sleeper) clamps

[rusty spike]

Hi
I’m giving ‘floating’ LGB SECTIONAL track in a trough with ballast a try.
If you have used this method, please can you let me know if I need to clamp each section of track to the next. I have seen this with LGB flexible track but not with sectional track. Electrical continuity not an issue as battery r/c.
Thanks,
Richard

 

[dunnyrail]

You could use the LGB plastic track clips they will help things keep together but clamps would certainly be better even if you are not usinh]g track power.

 

[JimmyB]

You could use the LGB plastic track clips they will help things keep together but clamps would certainly be better even if you are not usinh]g track power.

Jon, I have used the clips and found them “wanting.

 

[maxi-model]

My line is of the floating type, with the track spiked every 3 - 4 feet to keep it in place as best as possible. I use both flexi and set track, anything from the 300 mm straights to 1200mm and R5 radius curves and points. I started out 17 years ago just using the plastic clips and the standard rail joiners but found, apart from growing electrical continuity issues, over time some track formations particularly around points and crossing would loose their alignment causing derailment issues. So I started using Hillman over joiner clamps and, when they became difficult to find, the Massoth type direct to rail clamp. That pretty much cured that issue. The latter type are particularly useful as you can slide then out so you can lift individual track sections out without disturbing adjacent track. All types are also a great help if you have a less than level line where you can get heavy locos and stock hammering, and dragging through friction, the track apart as they hit curves on downward slopes. Max

 

[dunnyrail]

Jon, I have used the clips and found them “wanting.

Yes they do have their limitations not least that they do not couple all of the LGB Track, being I think only suitable for R1. But may work in his situation if he has them, no harm in trying but I would not bother buying them. I have in fact have used them in limited ways in one of my fiddle yards that is mostly LGB Track and they do stop things moving around.

 

[PhilP]

They do not fit all track sections..

Probably OK for holding track together on the living-room floor? - Short sections, and curves..

For outside:
If funds allow, buy / fit clamps..
If not, then clean / grease the joiners (perhaps nip them up with a pair of pliers?) and then fit clamps, as problems appear over-time??

 

[Gizzy]

I used the 'dog bone' clips on R1/R2 curves on my previous layout, and found them to be fine.

I've also used them on the few joins wherever I've used a yellow LGB isolating joiner on my current layout.

My track floats and is mostly joined with ART, Hillman or Massoth clamps, but is not spiked down....

 

[rusty spike]

Thanks for all your replies! I checked out the Massoth clamps and am I correct in assuming they are fixed by drilling the web of the track and bolting through?
Also, slightly off topic, I am using several types of track bed but with the ‘floating’ system I intend to tamp down a couple of inches of scalpings/ ballast then finishing with granite chippings for the track to sit in. How deep should this be? I have found a source for the chippings which are 2-6mm. I’m guessing that 2mm would be more to scale but would these hold the track in place? I’m running very heavy locos and stock.

 

[Gizzy]

Thanks for all your replies! I checked out the Massoth clamps and am I correct in assuming they are fixed by drilling the web of the track and bolting through?
Also, slightly off topic, I am using several types of track bed but with the ‘floating’ system I intend to tamp down a couple of inches of scalpings/ ballast then finishing with granite chippings for the track to sit in. How deep should this be? I have found a source for the chippings which are 2-6mm. I’m guessing that 2mm would be more to scale but would these hold the track in place? I’m running very heavy locos and stock.

No drilling required, but you will have to loosen the screws or maybe remove them to fit under the rail web.

I also use chippings of the same size as you've sourced. I lay my track on around an inch of ballast, and then top up between the sleepers, ends and level by packing more of the same under the sleeper ends. As I use fixed track or pre-bent flexi, the track hardly moves when in use.

The ballast is there more for the look than the functionality....

 

[maxi-model]

The Massoth clamps slide onto the foot of the rail. One side of the clamp is machined to hold one edge of the foot of the rail, the opposite side of the foot of the rail is held by tightening down on the 2 screws, 1 to each track section being joined. That then holds the clamp and track in place. Make sure that you check under the track section ends to be joined for any plastic tabs that extend beyond the end sleepers. Cut these back flush to the sleepers otherwise you may not be able to slide a clamp towards either track section enough so that you can remove a track section without disturbing others attached to it by the clamps. Max

 

[rusty spike]

Thanks chaps
I have just concreted the posts for the 1st 3rd of the railway, which includes a nice 6’ under girder bridge by Gnome Engineering. The rise of my garden is away from the house, so to keep level the front portion is on posts and treated timber. As the ground rises, so the trough and floating track will take over. It’s not an ambitious layout as the garden space is relatively small for R5 curves, point work, large locos and stock.