LGB Porter not getting power from wheels.

[Lylat1an]

I have this loco apart to convert it to DCC, but my continuity tester only lights when I touch it to an internal contact and a "skate" between the wheels. Not the wheels and the contact.

Is there a certain cleaner that should be used for the "carbon brushes" behind the wheels?

 

[Greg Elmassian]

CRC electronics cleaner, plastic safe, but you should inspect the springs, etc.

 

[PhilP]

You don't need to get the wheel-backs super-clean, but you should get continuity, between wheels and skates, along each side..

A cotton-bud, or cloth wrapped around a screwdriver blade, a little smoke-oil / cleaning fluid (or Isopropyl Alcohol). Cradle the loco in your lap, inverted. If you clip wires to the skates, you can run the loco and clean the wheels-backs easily.


I check this sort of thing, and run from a bench power supply, before starting a conversion.. That way, you know if there are any problems, what the current-draw of the loco is. - A higher than anticipated current, can suggest a 'tired' motor..


PhilP.

 

[Lylat1an]

I check this sort of thing, and run from a bench power supply, before starting a conversion.

It was running okay when I tested it a few days ago.

 

[Lylat1an]

CRC electronics cleaner, plastic safe, but you should inspect the springs, etc.

Thanks. I'll do that.

 

[Paul2727]

It was running okay when I tested it a few days ago.

By any chance, did you test wheels to motor continuity before the DCC conversion?

 

[Alpineandy]

have you had the baseplate off the loco....... if you have ensure that the sprung metal rods contact all the pickups when reassembling...........if you get em in the wrong way round it can cause problems.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Andy, Which metal rods? Do you mean the ones that contact the back sides of the wheels, or the thick wires that connect to the skates and brush holders.

 

[Alpineandy]

Andy, Which metal rods? Do you mean the ones that contact the back sides of the wheels, or the thick wires that connect to the skates and brush holders.

The skates and brush holders the wire/rod can get dislodged if not reassembled carefully

 

[Paul2727]

One thing worth checking is that the the metal electrical connection rods that feed power from the skates and wheels sits the right side of the L shaped brass brackets that contact the skate. Unfortunately I can't remember if the rod goes under or over the bracket. Can't check, as my porter based locos are all packed away. I do seem to remember that if its on the wrong side, then the rods don't make contact with the carbon brush holders. The exploded diagram isn't much help in determining the correct position either, I'm afraid. Also check that the bottom cover plate of the chassis / engine block is on the right way round. they will physically fit on either way round, but the cast plastic lugs that hold the connection rods are handed. (The loco model number should be towards the front of the loco.)
Paul.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Yes we need a picture of it properly assembled.

Or perhaps the OP will post a picture with the motor block open.

I bought a shelf queen, and it would not run, somone had put heat shrink on one of the bus bars/power rods to insulate it.... to make sure no one could run it.

Greg

 

[Paul2727]

Yes we need a picture of it properly assembled.

Or perhaps the OP will post a picture with the motor block open.

I bought a shelf queen, and it would not run, somone had put heat shrink on one of the bus bars/power rods to insulate it.... to make sure no one could run it.

Greg

Thanks Greg.
Good pic.
It also reminded me that there are / were two types of chassis produced for the porter. One with bottom plate mounting screws in a line down the centre. (As shown in your pic.) And one with the mounting screws in a rectangular pattern, the same as the Otto / OHO. (As shown in the exploded view I posted.) The Porter body fitted both types and there seems to have been some interchangeability in production depending on the age and country of origin of the loco. I have a couple of each type, which led to some serious head scratching in the past.

Regards, Paul.

 

[LVT]

Yet another area to check is the condition of the lugs on the baseplate; they can deform if subjected to heat from a short circuit. Also the tightness of the baseplate mounting screws can influence the conductivity of the rods to the brush holders. Sometimes slightly loosening screw(s) can make a difference—not really a good feature of LGB mechanisms imho.

 

[Paul M]

Yes we need a picture of it properly assembled.

Or perhaps the OP will post a picture with the motor block open.

I bought a shelf queen, and it would not run, somone had put heat shrink on one of the bus bars/power rods to insulate it.... to make sure no one could run it.

Greg

Really? Why do all that work, would it have not been easier not put it on a track?

 

[Greg Elmassian]

It's possible that he did not want his grandchildren to grab it from the mantle and put it on his outdoor layout when he was not looking. Also, I seem to remember that the lights still functioned, so perhaps he could leave it static with the lights on and no motor.

Greg