LGB Porter not getting power from wheels.

Lylat1an

Registered
8 Nov 2020
37
1
Graham, WA
I have this loco apart to convert it to DCC, but my continuity tester only lights when I touch it to an internal contact and a "skate" between the wheels. Not the wheels and the contact.

Is there a certain cleaner that should be used for the "carbon brushes" behind the wheels?
 

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
27,416
2,830
Tamworth, Staffs.
You don't need to get the wheel-backs super-clean, but you should get continuity, between wheels and skates, along each side..

A cotton-bud, or cloth wrapped around a screwdriver blade, a little smoke-oil / cleaning fluid (or Isopropyl Alcohol). Cradle the loco in your lap, inverted. If you clip wires to the skates, you can run the loco and clean the wheels-backs easily.


I check this sort of thing, and run from a bench power supply, before starting a conversion.. That way, you know if there are any problems, what the current-draw of the loco is. - A higher than anticipated current, can suggest a 'tired' motor..


PhilP.
 

Alpineandy

Registered
25 Oct 2009
1,866
322
Alpennines
have you had the baseplate off the loco....... if you have ensure that the sprung metal rods contact all the pickups when reassembling...........if you get em in the wrong way round it can cause problems.
 

Alpineandy

Registered
25 Oct 2009
1,866
322
Alpennines
Andy, Which metal rods? Do you mean the ones that contact the back sides of the wheels, or the thick wires that connect to the skates and brush holders.
The skates and brush holders the wire/rod can get dislodged if not reassembled carefully
 

Paul2727

Registered
5 Jun 2018
516
70
The Cotswolds
One thing worth checking is that the the metal electrical connection rods that feed power from the skates and wheels sits the right side of the L shaped brass brackets that contact the skate. Unfortunately I can't remember if the rod goes under or over the bracket. Can't check, as my porter based locos are all packed away. I do seem to remember that if its on the wrong side, then the rods don't make contact with the carbon brush holders. The exploded diagram isn't much help in determining the correct position either, I'm afraid. Also check that the bottom cover plate of the chassis / engine block is on the right way round. they will physically fit on either way round, but the cast plastic lugs that hold the connection rods are handed. (The loco model number should be towards the front of the loco.)
Paul.
 

Attachments

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  • porter lugs.jpg
    porter lugs.jpg
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Last edited:

Greg Elmassian

Registered
8 Mar 2014
4,702
687
San Diego
www.elmassian.com
Yes we need a picture of it properly assembled.

Or perhaps the OP will post a picture with the motor block open.

I bought a shelf queen, and it would not run, somone had put heat shrink on one of the bus bars/power rods to insulate it.... to make sure no one could run it.



Greg
 

Paul2727

Registered
5 Jun 2018
516
70
The Cotswolds
Yes we need a picture of it properly assembled.

Or perhaps the OP will post a picture with the motor block open.

I bought a shelf queen, and it would not run, somone had put heat shrink on one of the bus bars/power rods to insulate it.... to make sure no one could run it.



Greg
Thanks Greg.
Good pic.
It also reminded me that there are / were two types of chassis produced for the porter. One with bottom plate mounting screws in a line down the centre. (As shown in your pic.) And one with the mounting screws in a rectangular pattern, the same as the Otto / OHO. (As shown in the exploded view I posted.) The Porter body fitted both types and there seems to have been some interchangeability in production depending on the age and country of origin of the loco. I have a couple of each type, which led to some serious head scratching in the past.

Regards, Paul.
 

LVT

Analogue automated LGB Euro on 4 loops
24 Oct 2009
172
10
Near Atlantic City NJ USA
Yet another area to check is the condition of the lugs on the baseplate; they can deform if subjected to heat from a short circuit. Also the tightness of the baseplate mounting screws can influence the conductivity of the rods to the brush holders. Sometimes slightly loosening screw(s) can make a difference—not really a good feature of LGB mechanisms imho.
 

Paul M

Registered
25 Oct 2016
6,095
1,035
57
Royston
Yes we need a picture of it properly assembled.

Or perhaps the OP will post a picture with the motor block open.

I bought a shelf queen, and it would not run, somone had put heat shrink on one of the bus bars/power rods to insulate it.... to make sure no one could run it.



Greg
Really? Why do all that work, would it have not been easier not put it on a track?
 

Greg Elmassian

Registered
8 Mar 2014
4,702
687
San Diego
www.elmassian.com
It's possible that he did not want his grandchildren to grab it from the mantle and put it on his outdoor layout when he was not looking. Also, I seem to remember that the lights still functioned, so perhaps he could leave it static with the lights on and no motor.

Greg