LGB points vs 0-4-0

[Jim Prior]

Long term the LGB connections including the slidy one by the blade cannot be relied on. I tend to do jumpers where all the LGB wire, slidy and screw contacts are. This does give continuity guarantee long term. But is a pain to do with a lot of typically old weathered points.

That's exactly what I'm finding. Although I've had my railway parts for 5 years, I'm only recently finding time to lay the track (house move, prep a rental property, and my partners house for sale, to say my life has been busy is an understatement!) To keep costs down I've been buying up second hand track and points. And taking the view to overhaul now while laying, rather than once it's all down. All good fun

 

[Jim Prior]

If you are DCC, you could try fitting power buffers. I found this helped on my less than perfectly laid trackwork.

Rik

Hi Rik, you probably don't remember but i posted in your thread DIY Power buffer because I was going to make a buffer but it wouldn't work with my 20752 loco. According to The Shed who did a lot of research into the LGB decoders and power buffers, he couldn't make the 55028 decoder work and suspected it wasn't designed to, whereas it's successor the 55029 decoder has a well featured set of cv's to allow config of buffers. However I recently bought the Massoth eMotion Powercap Micro 8151601 to put into my Rugen on my XLS decoder!
I think I get some kind of perverse enjoyment from battling with these trials. One day I'll actually get to play trains properly, lol.