LGB points - Hand operated not switching

Soda will take loose muck off, but I do not think it will remove the tarnish (oxidation) from the track.

Interesting your track shows a coppery colour.. Infers the acid has attacked the other constituents slightly??
 
Coke has phosphoric acid in it, full strength it will clean tarnish, but it's a weak solution, water it down and probably the action will be too slow. You don't have vinegar in the house? It's cheaper than soda too!

Has anyone determined what the manufacturer of the points are yet?

Greg
 
Greg, my points are LGB type.

There has been a slight improvement in that the points will switch with a little encouragement.

Using white vinegar to clean the rails joiners is proving successful if a little aromatic!

I'll keep persevering.

Sarah
 
Ah - yes, the pong is not the most pleasant - I'm usually using it outdoors or in the shed, where you can escape from it when it becomes tiresome.

Are you able to post photos yet?
 
Sarah, the reason I asked is that in post #7 you mentioned that the ends of the rails had been drilled and tapped. If it's only one end of the switch(points) then they could have been modified to mate with Aristo or USAT track. If it's all three "ends" of the switch(points) then it is not LGB most likely.

Greg
 
here you got a pic from a LGB manual switch

handweiche-antrieb.JPG
 
Thanks for the photographs, they show clearly what I required.

I just wanted to see how the spring was positioned in the switch mechanism.

Sarah
 
The unknown rail clamp shown in the second photo posted by dunnyrail looks to be a Split Jaw product. They make a variety of rail clamps including those that transition code 332 rail to code 250 rail. I've been using their "over-the-joiner" (fishplate) clamps on LGB track for a while and they work well.
 
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