LGB-Point Motor Accesories

R

Rob s

trains, R/C models, 4x4 off roading, motor sport
Hi folks
I am looking for some of the small attachments that push
fit on to the LGB Point motor arm.
The bit that allows you to fit the direction lights etc to the side
of the motor.
Does any one have any spare for sale or know where i might
be able get any or any ideas as to how to make them.

Pic below (sorry not the best but my camera is playing up)
its the little bit that pushes on the end of the arm, i am after
not the whole motor.

9f9922e93c384e87a090eb647c5a2a4d.jpg
 
Mmm I wasn't aware that you needed a converter for the point lights? I have a few spare light units at home i'll have a look. one problem with the light units is they produce quite a drag on the motor and they will not always throw completely leading to some derailments hence the i have a few comment!!
 
minimans said:
Mmm I wasn't aware that you needed a converter for the point lights? I have a few spare light units at home i'll have a look. one problem with the light units is they produce quite a drag on the motor and they will not always throw completely leading to some derailments hence the i have a few comment!!
Click to expand...

Hi Paul thanks you.
Some of my motors (newer ones i think) have the loop allready
on the arm others have this little push on piece.
I only use them on the fiddle yard area, so they are protected
from dirt and weather.
With some minor fettling and plenty of dry Silicon Lube, they will
work fine, but do need to be 'cleaned' and lubed twice a year and
you need to use good 'clean' and lubed (inside) motors, it also helps
to have 'clean' smooth movement on the points.
The word 'clean' leeds me to think they would not work very well in
the open garden for long - Too much muck gets in every thing.
 
I have some of the direction lights, which I've temporarily removed as I've relaid 'Quarry Junction' from a ladder configuaration, to a diamond crossover.

Like Rob, some of my motors have the 'loop' fitted and some need to have it added. Don't think I've a spare but I'll have a look later.

I've highlighted Rob's photo in case anyone else wonders what these are?

c0faa5b6ef9b480a81003ad5a647daec.jpg


They do cause drag as Paul mentioned, but this can be overcome by increasing the length of the pulse that changes the motor to its maximum setting....
 
Not sure I am following this one. I just drop the point motor arm into a hole which I bore in the tiebar. OK so far I have only used LGB motors and Peco points, but I don't see a problem with any other turnout. I don't recollect ever having received such an attachment in a point motor pack, three of which I bought new. Anyone else elucidate? (You do and you'll clean it up)
4c2b0ac897174782ad081f923d90a545.jpg
 
Glengrant said:
Not sure I am following this one. I just drop the point motor arm into a hole which I bore in the tiebar. OK so far I have only used LGB motors and Peco points, but I don't see a problem with any other turnout. I don't recollect ever having received such an attachment in a point motor pack, three of which I bought new. Anyone else elucidate? (You do and you'll clean it up)
Click to expand...

Thanks for highlighting the piece Gizzy :thumbup:

Glen poss a poor description on my part mate,
its the other end of the tiebar that this bit pushes on to,
This then allows for the addition of accesories, in my case a
small direction light which turns with the points to show
the direction the points are turned.
Don't think these come with the points, more likely they come
with the accesories :thinking:
Poss a better pic below ?

5032a31773c14aa9b779cc62d4138288.jpg
 
Also just to clear it up,

It was the older ones that had the loop molded in to the tie bar, the newer ones need the little bit of plastic to make the indicator work. This should come with new indicators in the bag of bits but if like me you got some secondhand ones then the adaptors will be missing as they are on the points they where removed from:brokeheart::thumbdown::crying::thumbdown::brokeheart:
 
Glen
A Picture of the result i am trying to achieve, so that it is easier
to tell which turnout is live.

b94a8ac78e604f24b63cb3bcca608db0.jpg
 
Yes - the 'missing' part is supplied with the switch lantern.
It seems to get left behind when the lantens are removed from the motors. Seems to be an on going problem - often crops up on here.
Anyone got one of the offending pieces - lets see if we can fabricate/bodge a replacement.
 
stockers said:
Yes - the 'missing' part is supplied with the switch lantern.
It seems to get left behind when the lantens are removed from the motors. Seems to be an on going problem - often crops up on here.
Anyone got one of the offending pieces - lets see if we can fabricate/bodge a replacement.
Click to expand...

Alan

I have one i can loan you but it is quite a detailed moulding, and would need to be a spring type plastic sooner than resin.

Steve
 
steve parberry said:
Also just to clear it up,

It was the older ones that had the loop molded in to the tie bar, the newer ones need the little bit of plastic to make the indicator work. This should come with new indicators in the bag of bits but if like me you got some secondhand ones then the adaptors will be missing as they are on the points they where removed from:brokeheart::thumbdown::crying::thumbdown::brokeheart:
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Steve.
Seems the points are dumbing down then.
I have tried to swap the tie bars over as i have some from
some dead (older) motors, but they are not compatable with
each other the throw is diferent.
Have tried a few places but no luck so far, need about 5 in total
so may have a go at fabricating something but it is small and fiddly
and need to be surprisingly, strong to throw the light.

Happy to buy any spares any one might have 8|

Edit - Alan you had the same idea as i did, while i was posting this reply
Would be interested in any idea's for fabricating.
Don't think it would be easy to cast as Steve says, would need to be
springy plastic to clip on the tie bar.
Might be poss to manufacture something that then bolts/screws to the tiebar
needs to be tidy though as there is not a lot of clearence in the space.

Typically i don't have my model machining gear any more.
Sold it as i though i would not use it again :crying:
 
Steve - an idea. Do you think we could make it rigid and use a pin or screw to clamp it in place?
 
from Cyril aka Glengrant pls ignore my contribution to this thread, I hadn't a clue what you were all talking about, far too technical for me, now where's me Sykes lock and block?
 
stockers said:
Steve - an idea. Do you think we could make it rigid and use a pin or screw to clamp it in place?
Click to expand...

Trouble is as Rob said earlier space is really at a premium....Nothing spare other than where this bit fits..
See post 6
 
I forgot to look at home!! sounds of self flagellation..................OOO I like that.....................I'll try to remember tonight...................
 
Rob,

I could do you a swap of an older type motor with the loop on the tie bar (and the 'slider' on the top to change the point manually), for a newer type without it, if that helps?

Since it's not hurling it down just now, I've just had a look to see how many I have, to find one on the layout, plus a spare in the shed, a total of 2 motors. They are 2 wire motors, and both are serviceable and ready for use.

If you want to do a swap, PM me and we can sort things out from there....
 
Rob s said:
Glen
A picture of the result I am trying to achieve, so that it is easier
to tell which turnout is live.
Click to expand...
Similar to how I used mine.

To check which way the point is set when viewing from the train shed.

I also painted the circle red, the arrow yellow and the straight marker green which helped me check the route and acted as a simple ground signal....

c548d3f9f8634740843afb31366f36eb.jpg
 
Gizzy said:
Rob,
I could do you a swap of an older type motor with the loop on the tie bar (and the 'slider' on the top to change the point manually), for a newer type without it, if that helps?

Since it's not hurling it down just now, I've just had a look to see how many I have, to find one on the layout, plus a spare in the shed, a total of 2 motors. They are 2 wire motors, and both are serviceable and ready for use.

If you want to do a swap, PM me and we can sort things out from there....
Click to expand...

Hi Gizzy
Thanks thats a real smashing offer, if i am unable to locate/manufacture
any end clips I will sort out two servicable 'newer' style points and PM
you. :thumbup:

Not sure what the manual slider is you refer to though, I have checked
all mine and none with what looks like a slide on the top of the motor
seem to move :thinking:

As a start towards (trying to) manufacturing an end clip, i have found some
rectangular Plastic section that will slide nicely on to the throw arm..

I then drilled a small hole at the point of the pin on the throw arm in the Box
section. Using the hole in an existing clip as a location guide.

I then very carefully filled a 'V' shape grove down to the drilled hole
from one end about 4mm.

This works well sliding on and locking to the pin on the arm, exactly the
same as the origional piece and there are no clearence issues as yet.
Steady work takes about 10-15mins to do. (made 6 as a dummy run)

Now the next step is to figure out a way of manufacturing a loop and
attaching it to the rectangular box section.

This is where I have hit a wall so to speak, as i am strugling to find any
thing that is small enough in X section, but strong enough to form the loop and
have enough area to glue to the Box section.
And preferably not require hours of work (rather optomistic i know)

I have Tried so far

1 - Plasticard - if thin enough to fit the gap, it either twists or breaks or i can
not get enough surface to form a strong joint.

2 - Resin loops (found in the bits box) filled thin enough to fit, can't get
enough surface to form a strong enough bond to the Box section (with the
space restrictions in the light unit).

3 - Thin Brass strip - (most promising so far) cut drilled and bent to shape
strong, easily worked and thin enough for the space available.
BUT - still with the problem of attaching to plastic Box section???

4 - A small cut down 'U' shape galvanised staple type nail - I have heated this
up and pushed it in to Box section, and am now waiting for the Araldite to
set Hard.
I am then hoping it will be a strong enough joint, to allow for filling the
top down flat enough to fit the gap available under the Lamp holder.
There is a gap of about 1.5mm to play with and still leave clearence 8|

I Think no 3 is a poss go'er if i can find a suitable glue for Brass to Plastic

No 4 is looking the most likely, but with a lot of time spent filling.
i am going to leave the joint in a warm place for 24 hours before the filling begins.

Sorry no pic's as yet as the camera has completly stoped focusing in for close
shots (probably my fault never seem to have much look with cameras).

If any one has an idea shout up please
happy to try any sensible sounding ideas, :rolf:

If i can achieve a working example, :thumbup:
I will borrow a camera and do a build thread (promise)
 
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