LGB MTS system
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ntpntpntp
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Can you be more specific? Which loco is it?
Why do you feel you need to rewire it - in general you can run an MTS fitted loco on analogue DC without problems (though many folk here would advise NOT to run such a loco on PWM/PWC pulsed power as it can upset the electronics). With what controller do you wish to run the loco?
Why do you feel you need to rewire it - in general you can run an MTS fitted loco on analogue DC without problems (though many folk here would advise NOT to run such a loco on PWM/PWC pulsed power as it can upset the electronics). With what controller do you wish to run the loco?
The engine is a LGB 23194 mogul. It does run fine, but needs about 8 VDC to ge it going. I am with the Columbus Garden Railway Society & we have a portable layout that we take to different sites around the Columbus, OH area as requested or to various train shows. Of the three "loops" that we can run at a time is a manually operated passing siding which can be used to stage another train to run on the large loop. When another train is running & we want to merge the train on the siding, we have to get the track voltage to at least 8 volts to get the LGB engine going. Whatever train that is lready running starts to accelerate and this creates quite a "moment of truth" for the operator. There have been a couple of close wrecks as a result of the voltage difference. What we would like is to get the critter going with about 3-4 volts. Since a variety of members operates the trains at the locations, there are a variety of experience levels. this is especially true if the member brings his/her train to run.
ntpntpntp
Registered
Ah, I understand. The decoder needs that 8V in order to "wake up" the electronics, after this it can then determine if it's running on DC or DCC and react accordingly. It's quite normal behaviour, not just for MTS but for any DCC decoder fitted loco. LGB advise not to consist MTS and DC locos due to this difference in running characteristics.
I think some folk mess around with the MTS CV settings to try and minimise the differences in running, but you'll never get it to be identical to a non-MTS loco.
The loco's DCC decoder is going to be either part of the main circuit board or may possibly be a separate decoder plugged into the main board. If it's a plug-in then it can be removed and some switches changed to make the loco analogue DC only. If the decoder is integrated onto the main board, you've got no choice but to remove the board and rewire - seems a bit of a shame to do that as it's an expensive bit of kit.
Here's a link to the service diagram of 23194.
http://www.champex-linden.de/lgb_pr...CEE8B6FB61485256EE000700BB2/$FILE/23194-1.pdf
Looks to me like the sound is also going to be controlled by the decoder on the main board, so you'd loose that too?
If it were me I'd say don't mess with the loco, just accept that has different characteristics and maybe try and run it only with other similarly MTS equiped locos?
I think some folk mess around with the MTS CV settings to try and minimise the differences in running, but you'll never get it to be identical to a non-MTS loco.
The loco's DCC decoder is going to be either part of the main circuit board or may possibly be a separate decoder plugged into the main board. If it's a plug-in then it can be removed and some switches changed to make the loco analogue DC only. If the decoder is integrated onto the main board, you've got no choice but to remove the board and rewire - seems a bit of a shame to do that as it's an expensive bit of kit.
Here's a link to the service diagram of 23194.
http://www.champex-linden.de/lgb_pr...CEE8B6FB61485256EE000700BB2/$FILE/23194-1.pdf
Looks to me like the sound is also going to be controlled by the decoder on the main board, so you'd loose that too?
If it were me I'd say don't mess with the loco, just accept that has different characteristics and maybe try and run it only with other similarly MTS equiped locos?
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
ntpntpntp said:
Just a thought, if you wanted to convert the loco to pure analogue TEMPORARILY, for running at shows, then if you could live without the lights working you could just pull the four connectors off the motor block and tie them up safely, and replace them with a couple of short jumper cables to connect each track power feed directly to the corresponding motor terminal pin. Hey presto, instant analogue loco without any other re-wiring (but, as I mentioned, the lights won't work since they will still be wired through the MTS board). When you want to revert the loco to full MTS capability, just pull the jumper cables and reconnect the four factory-standard wires.
Jon.
ntpntpntp
Registered
If I remember correctly on my 23191 (not factory fitted MTS but I've chipped it), you'd have to get the cab off to access the board, and further dismantle to get to the motor block connections.
I guess you could do as Jon suggests, and maybe make it slightly more permanent with a DPDT switch to bypass the board and connect track feed directly to the motor. It's a bit more complicated in that the tender pickups also route through to the main board, so you'd loose the benefit of those.
Study that service diagram as linked above, if you're ok with electrics and soldering I can imagine you could make up a small circuit board in the cab with a DPDT switch and pins to take the cable coming from the motor block, and with a new short cable to pass through to the main circuit board when in MTS mode. If you're feeling brave you could simply splice this new board into the existing cable if it's long enough. I can't quite figure out what the other connections into the motor block are for - possibly chuff sensor and flickering firebox?
Maybe the sound might still work from the power coming through the tender pickups to the main board, although it's still going to need that minimum 8v to get going I guess?
I guess you could do as Jon suggests, and maybe make it slightly more permanent with a DPDT switch to bypass the board and connect track feed directly to the motor. It's a bit more complicated in that the tender pickups also route through to the main board, so you'd loose the benefit of those.
Study that service diagram as linked above, if you're ok with electrics and soldering I can imagine you could make up a small circuit board in the cab with a DPDT switch and pins to take the cable coming from the motor block, and with a new short cable to pass through to the main circuit board when in MTS mode. If you're feeling brave you could simply splice this new board into the existing cable if it's long enough. I can't quite figure out what the other connections into the motor block are for - possibly chuff sensor and flickering firebox?
Maybe the sound might still work from the power coming through the tender pickups to the main board, although it's still going to need that minimum 8v to get going I guess?
Many, many thanks. Especially the technical page link. Yes, I would loose the sound. We have another option of selling it to a member at the club's annual swap meet. It is a great looking loco with very few hours on it since it has only been used with the largest of our portable loops.