LGB Mikado with SNDTX-884009 decoder

[PCBN Rwy]

I am really new at this DCC; I don't understand how it works. Does it use a separate throttle controller or work off track power? I got an LGB Mikado with this decoder
system installed and don't know how to run it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm at a total loss here.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

you need to read a bit on DCC, it's a little more involved than your questions.

1. I assume soundtraxxx decoder
2. it should work in DC fine, you do not NEED DCC
3. DCC uses a constant AC voltage on the rails, and needs special controllers.

Did you try on DC yet?

Greg

 

[PCBN Rwy]

All I have for power is an MRC 20 Power supply. It is DC to the tracks; I did get what sounded like a pump running at about 5-6 volts but that was all. No lights, movement,
bell, whistle, etc. Max power indicated on handheld controller is 0-10. I am guessing these are volts but just a guess.

 

[PCBN Rwy]

PS, the decoder is a SNDTX-884009 Tsunami 2 from Harris Hobbies in TX.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Do you have your transformer in mode 1 or mode 2?

0-10 is not volts....

google for the manual if you don't have one...

 

[PCBN Rwy]

I put a multi-meter on the track; the max output of the MRC Power Supply is 20VDC. I have it set for "G Scale", too. I found the wires that go into the motor(s) were
crossed from what the previous owner marked in Sharpee felt tip pen. He is the one that installed the DCC. I switched the wires and tried all again but still get just the pump sound.
That sound starts at 5 volts and continues until about 12-15 volts. I will try to get an owners manual on the DCC system. Also will see if I can contact the seller to see if I am missing something. I hope I don't have to open the loco to see if a wire came loose from the motor power input. The manual on the loco is not very good and does not show how to remove the motors/drivers.

 

[ebay mike]

There is a multi-position switch in the cab which disables motor, lights, smoke etc. Have you tried that?

 

[PhilP]

My guess:
Analogue is turned off in the decoder, so it will not run.. You need someone with a DCC system to check the settings for you, and make sure the decoder is set to run in analogue.

The pump you get is a 'standing sound' effect, so the electronics is working.

The motor wires being swapped, is one-way to get the loco to run in the right direction. - This would usually be done by a change to a value of a 'CV' (Configuration Variable) within the decoder.. again, this can be corrected by a person who knows a little about DCC.

Find another person with a line, and DCC, or contact a local model rail club / group.
They will normally be more than happy to welcome you, and help sort you out.
PhilP.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I'm with mike... nothing else makes a lot of sense, if the tsunami is wired to the motor, then the motor should turn if it makes sounds.

Only thing makes sense is the motor is disconnected by a switch.

Greg

 

[PhilP]

Only thing makes sense is the motor is disconnected by a switch.

Or broken / disconnected wire, perhaps?

I have had a DCC fitted loco which made standing noises, but did not run.. Turning on analogue, in CV 29, made it run.

 

[PCBN Rwy]

Philip hit the nail on the head. I have been in touch with the gentleman I purchased the loco from and the analog mode is turned off by default. I did try the switch first but to no avail. I will have to go ahead and get a DCC system anyway. Planning a 60' X 90' layout this spring and 5 trains eventually. Logging, freight, passenger service, mining, etc. Ambitious project; we will see how it goes.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Weird, I looked up the manual and indeed analog conversion is not enabled by default....

 

[PCBN Rwy]

Thank you, everyone for their input and help. Now I'm off to dive into the deep(er) water of model railroading. Looks like a lot of work but if you are having fun that is all that counts, right? Been collecting for years now I have to build a place for the trains to run.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

If you are thinking of buying a DCC system, I'd like to suggest some reading:

DCC

Greg Elmassian web site on large scale trains and garden railroads, cigars, and computers

elmassian.com

note the subpages at the bottom, especially the two in red.

Greg

 

[PCBN Rwy]

Hi, Guys,
I have been doing a lot of reading. Thanks, Greg. Still reading there; lots more to go. This is beginning to make sense now. Pretty neat what can be done.

I sorta jumped the gun before I read much and got a WiFi system from MRC. I hope it does what they say it will do.

Model Rectifier #0001424 Prodigy Advance2 DCC Digital Command Control System, WiFi Not too bad a price; $349.95. We will see.
Amazon being Amazon they would not ship to Alaska so had to ship to my daughter in WA State. She will forward to me.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Return it, voltage too low for G scale.... you need a system that at least has a 20v output.

I could go into more detail, but just return it. 5 years from now you will understand completely.

Greg

 

[PCBN Rwy]

Greg, can you go into more detail here? I don't want to wait 5 years. Give it to me straight, son. I'm pushing 80 so in 5 years it may be over!

 

[Dan]

Greg and I are using 24 volt DCC systems and are tied to voltage regulated supplies to make sure we always have 24 volts available on the track.
SO, here is what I know about some systems: (Other than LGB MTS, specs below are for current manufactured systems).
LGB 24 volts 5 amps
Massoth 24 volts 12 amps
Zimo 24 volts Can be adjusted down to 14 for HO 8/12 amps for 20 total
NCE 21 volts Need booster for this, otherwise around 14 volts for HO

16 volts is OK for running older steam engines as they never went at a high speed. But if you have a modern diesel or fast steam, 24 volts is needed for high speed (60-80 mph).

 

[PCBN Rwy]

Thank you, Dan for the input. I can understand most of what you wrote but how/where do I acquire the regulated power supply or regulator for the supply?
I am not into HO so I can discount that. I will only be using this for G gauge outdoors.

I have been to Greg's website and read quite a bit on this. Greg started (?) with NCE and then went to Zimo. He mentioned some difficulties with Zimo but
was willing to deal with them. This is where the confusion comes in for me. Was the NCE inadequate and the Zimo could cover the shortcomings or what?

I am trying to decide if running battery power should be an option or just stay with track power. Both have advantages and disadvantages. I am leaning toward
track power because there is no putting up with batteries and chargers. Plus Lithium-ion batteries are/can be dangerous. I know the USPO doesn't particularly like
mailing them. Since I am in Alaska we have to mail everything in; not much here for resellers or dealers.

I was in a model aircraft club and one of the fellows was charging an airplane battery in his fairly new Chevy Suburban; the battery overheated, caught fire
and melted the steering wheel. They managed to get the fire out but not before several thousands of dollars damage was done.

Is there any one dealer/reseller that you can recommend for a DCC system? Right now I am interested in the NCE and Massoth.

Burl

 

[PhilP]

See if there is a local model rail club.
Contact / visit them.. See if there are any local large-scale runners, ditto.
See what equipment they use. - Local knowledge to help is priceless, when starting out.