LGB Diesel Switcher gets the Digital Treatment

Cliff George

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Todays project was to digitise my three pin LGB diesel switcher. Decoder is an eMOTION LS with 57mm flat speaker and Goldcap power buffer.

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Undo the two screws indicated. The gearbox with then pull out, take off the three connectors for the white, brown and green wires on the top. Put the rest of the engine aside for now to work on the gearbox. If your switcher has a single connector with four wires then you already have a four wire gearbox and don't need to modify it.

Whenever I take out a screw I always put it in a sperate labeled pot, so I know where it came from when I've forgotten that fact. I also try and take photos just incase I forget how to put things back together again (and as a consequence have a load of photos I can use for the explanation on G Scale Central!)

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Take the TOP off of the gearbox, by undoing the two screws indicated.

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Take out the motor. We need to do some surgery on to allow room for the modification for four pins. One the side where there is only one pin, this pin is connected to both the motor and the track, we need to leave it connected to the track, detach it from the motor and add a wire just connected to the motor. With a craft knife or file cut down where the red line is so that we can put some sheathing over the single pin. Remove the plastic indicated by the circle. This will allow room for us to make a connection to the motor pin.

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Like this:

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Drill a hole in the removed top of the gearbox where a fourth connector would naturally be.

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Solder a wire to the 'black' motor pin. This should be done as shown in the picture. The wire should go towards the motor not away from it. This is to prevent the new wire being able to touch the gears. Use yellow wire if at all possible to keep the same scheme that LGB uses (yellow motor+, white track+, brown track-, green motor-). Put some heat shrink over the soldered motor pin and also slide some onto the single pin.

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Put the motor back in. There is room for the yellow wire to go BEHIND the single pin. Take the opportunity to renew or redistribute the grease.

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Put the top of the gearbox back on and secure with the two screws. The wire goes through the hole we drilled earlier.

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We now need to take the top of the loco off from the chassis to get at the space where we can put the electronics. First take off the four sets of steps. Only the rear two are essential for getting inside, but taking the front two off as well does make it easier to ease off the wire rods at the front of the loco (what are there really called?).

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More to follow later .....
 

Cliff George

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Re:LGB Diesel Switcher get the Digital Treatment

Undo the two screws indicated on either side and remove the plastic piping.

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Undo the four screws indicated.

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Ease off the wires at the front of the loco. I found this quite difficult.

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The chassis and the top of the loco can now be separated. Take off the roof with the four external screws indicated.

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Undo the two screws by the switch in the cab.

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This will allow the old analogue electronic board to be remove from underneath.

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Cut off the wires from the old board and get rid of it. Be careful to leave the wires connecting to the rear light and power socket as long as possible. We will use the white and green wires here to power the rear light, the power socket will no longer function. That is OK by me, if it is not OK by you you would need to somehow disassemble the cab so you could get at the wires of the rear light and the power socket and rewire them so they didn't use a common. That looks difficult to me.

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I made up a little circuit board and connected it to the decoder.

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It has connectors so that I can individually attach and detach the front, rear and cab lights and the power buffer.

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Mount the speaker in the cab roof, start like this.

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More to follow later ......
 

Cliff George

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Re:LGB Diesel Switcher get the Digital Treatment

and finish like this:

The wire for the speaker goes down the same way as that for the cab light.

Put the roof back on.

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Attach the decoder to the track and motor while still disassembled and put it on the programming track. Make sure that the lights are still disconnected. Check that the decoder is working, reprogram the light voltage and connect the three lights.

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Pack everything inside, there is plenty of room. I've used a bit of blue/white tack to keep it all in place.

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Screw everything back together,complete your decoder programming and test.

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Hope this is useful.
 

stockers

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Re:LGB Diesel Switcher get the Digital Treatment

Nice work - thanks for the info. The LS is a great card - which loco sound did you get loaded?
 

Zerogee

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Re:LGB Diesel Switcher get the Digital Treatment

What is the white stuff you've used to mount the speaker to the roof? Is it White-tack, or something that sets permanently?

Thanks,

Jon.
 

Philbahn

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Re:LGB Diesel Switcher get the Digital Treatment

That makes it look easy Cliff. Now anybody can do it:clap::D

Massoth are great sound decoders.
 

Zerogee

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Re:LGB Diesel Switcher get the Digital Treatment

Philbahn said:
That makes it look easy Cliff. Now anybody can do it:clap::D

Massoth are great sound decoders.

Yep, I'd second all that. I've now done several installs with LS units, in all sorts of locos including three-pin gearboxes and even a couple of very old split-gearbox models (which in some ways are actually easier than the three-pin ones!). My latest was an LS into a very old brown-cab No.1 Stainz, decoder in the boiler after trimming down the lead weight, speaker in the cab roof, old split gearbox modified very simply by cutting back the brass contact strips and soldering wires to the motor terminals.

I've just got my first two of the new Massoth "S" sound-only modules (thanks for quick service just before Xmas, Jeremy!), to go in a couple of factory-MTS locos, will let you all know how that goes.

Jon.
 

Cliff George

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Re:LGB Diesel Switcher get the Digital Treatment

Sorry for the delay in replying chaps, I've been away.

stockers said:
Nice work - thanks for the info. The LS is a great card - which loco sound did you get loaded?

I went for the standard Small Diesel sound.

Zerogee said:
What is the white stuff you've used to mount the speaker to the roof? Is it White-tack, or something that sets permanently?
It's white tack. It the cheapo generic stuff from the pound shop, it does go hard after a month or so. It works very well.
Philbahn said:
Massoth are great sound decoders.
This is actually the first one I've ever had. All my other decoders are either by Lenz and then fitted with Dietz SUSI sound cards (they are like the new Massoth 'S' units), ESU or native LGB (I know Massoth made these). I was a bit apprehensive getting the Massoth decoder because the LGB ones don't work well on my computer control system. The motor control works fine, but controlling functions does not. Although the LGB ones support both the parallel and serial functions they don't support the parallel functions very reliably. At the beginning it seems as if the Massoth decoder was going to have the same problems as the LGB ones, but I discovered that if the serial functions are turned off completely then the parallel functions behave as they should, so I am happy.
 

Zerogee

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Re:LGB Diesel Switcher get the Digital Treatment

[blockquote]Zerogee
What is the white stuff you've used to mount the speaker to the roof? Is it White-tack, or something that sets permanently?
[/blockquote] "It's white tack. It the cheapo generic stuff from the pound shop, it does go hard after a month or so. It works very well."


Thanks for the info, Cliff - a good idea, I've tried various forms of speaker mounting (with varying success!) but not this one; I'll have to give it a go when I do my next install.

Jon.