LGB Croc 20405 Maerklin era model

[KeithT]

My croc has developed a lighting problem.
In analogue it perfect, all lights inc the cab lights function as they should but when I run it with MTS 2 strange things happen to them.
In one direction they light as they should including the single rear light but run the other way all the same lights remain on ie for wrong way running but v dim and the front cab light is out.
I noticed a while ago that the lights were not changing to match the direction of running but they were bright.
Is there anything that I can'should do (apart from passing it to Mike for "destruction testing")?

 

[Doug]

Hasn't someone else had a similar problem on a different loco. With directional lights or sound only working in one direction?

 

[KeithT]

Dear Mr T - if your crocodile is a Maerklin-era version and has gone TU, I suggest that you take it back whence it came , as it can only be a year old at the most.:thinking:

If I had paid around £800 for a croc and it had gorn wrong in the first year I had it, I would be banging on the counter-top.

tac
http://www.ovgrs.org/ < Link To www.ovgrs.org
RLGSS Member

Hi tac I bought it s/h at WELL below £800. In fairness it was OK then also, I think that it is more than 1yr old although I could stand corrected on that.

I suspect someone will have a good idea of how to sort it before I have to resort to returns or repairers. :thinking:
Its performance is otherwise unimpaired.

 

[KeithT]

Hasn't someone else had a similar problem on a different loco. With directional lights or sound only working in one direction?

Hmm I missed that I will try a Search.

 

[don9GLC]

Is there anything that I can'should do (apart from passing it to Mike for "destruction testing")?

Especially for second hand items, its always worth re-setting the decoder to Factory Default (CV55=55). In your case I'm not sure that it is likely to help, but it's quick and easy to do, and it sorted the lighting on my pre-owned Ge4/4 III after lots of unsuccessful attempts at setting the individual CVs. Its a bit like switching the computer off and starting again (sound familiar?)

Don

 

[KeithT]

Is there anything that I can'should do (apart from passing it to Mike for "destruction testing")?

Especially for second hand items, its always worth re-setting the decoder to Factory Default (CV55=55). In your case I'm not sure that it is likely to help, but it's quick and easy to do, and it sorted the lighting on my pre-owned Ge4/4 III after lots of unsuccessful attempts at setting the individual CVs. Its a bit like switching the computer off and starting again (sound familiar?)

Don

That means I will have to load and try to understand the software that I have had for a while but not used....! :thinking::thinking:

 

[don9GLC]

Is there anything that I can'should do (apart from passing it to Mike for "destruction testing")?

Especially for second hand items, its always worth re-setting the decoder to Factory Default (CV55=55). In your case I'm not sure that it is likely to help, but it's quick and easy to do, and it sorted the lighting on my pre-owned Ge4/4 III after lots of unsuccessful attempts at setting the individual CVs. Its a bit like switching the computer off and starting again (sound familiar?)

Don

That means I will have to load and try to understand the software that I have had for a while but not used....! :thinking::thinking:

What DCC system do you have? The LGB loco instructions tell you how to do this, page 19 for MTS with 55015 remotes. Massoth Navigators are also write direct to CVs. If you have either you should not need any software, but of course you can use software if you have it. Let me know if you want help in understanding the procedure and I'll try to explain.

 

[KeithT]

Is there anything that I can'should do (apart from passing it to Mike for "destruction testing")?

Especially for second hand items, its always worth re-setting the decoder to Factory Default (CV55=55). In your case I'm not sure that it is likely to help, but it's quick and easy to do, and it sorted the lighting on my pre-owned Ge4/4 III after lots of unsuccessful attempts at setting the individual CVs. Its a bit like switching the computer off and starting again (sound familiar?)

Don

That means I will have to load and try to understand the software that I have had for a while but not used....! :thinking::thinking:

What DCC system do you have? The LGB loco instructions tell you how to do this, page 19 for MTS with 55015 remotes. Massoth Navigators are also write direct to CVs. If you have either you should not need any software, but of course you can use software if you have it. Let me know if you want help in understanding the procedure and I'll try to explain.

Hi Don
Curiouser and curiouser I am running MTS2 and when I posted my query I was using a 55016 remote. Your post prompted me to try the 55015 one and I have a slightly different result.
Using the 55015 all 3 lights at one end stay on and so does one tail light irrespective of the direction of travel but sometimes using this remote all the lights dim.
The MTS was s/h and did not come with instructions. I have d/l a set but they are on the other PC currently in use by SWMBO. I have to say that I haven't got to grips with them though!
EDIT:
OOPS Just realised I am misleading you about analogue v digital.
The loco is analogue and runs normally with a basic analogue controller the problem only arises when I use the MTS with of course the loco address set to "0".
Sorry!

 

[KeithT]

Hasn't someone else had a similar problem on a different loco. With directional lights or sound only working in one direction?

Well remembered Doug. Someone did, I think it was Don who has posted above, and I d/l and filed it!
Unfortunately it is for a Massoth card. :crying:
Al;so, I have now accessed my MTS manual on PC and would you believe it - the file is corrupted and so too is a back-up copy. presumably the basic file was corrupted in the first place.
Soddes Law!

 

[don9GLC]

Hi Don
Curiouser and curiouser I am running MTS2 and when I posted my query I was using a 55016 remote. Your post prompted me to try the 55015 one and I have a slightly different result.
Using the 55015 all 3 lights at one end stay on and so does one tail light irrespective of the direction of travel but sometimes using this remote all the lights dim.
The MTS was s/h and did not come with instructions. I have d/l a set but they are on the other PC currently in use by SWMBO. I have to say that I haven't got to grips with them though!

My krok is 27402 (Blue 75 year GEX version) but I believe the decoder is essentially the same.

I have downloaded a copy of the 55015 instructions. Here is the relevant section.

To reset all function values of the decoder to the
factory pre-set values, you first have to switch from
programming mode "C" into programming mode "P".
Press the round "Halt" button (between the arrow
buttons).
The display now shows .
Now follow the instructions for the item you want to
program.
55020 MTS Decoders can be programmed only in
programming mode "P".




Here is an extract of the loco instructions

To reprogram the factory pre-set
function values with the 55015,
select programming mode “P” (displays
shows “P --”). Then input 6, 5,
and 5 and press the right arrow button.
The display shows “P --” again:
Input 5, 5, and 5 and press the right
arrow button again.


Let me know if that's not clear enough and I'll see what I can do to help.

Incidentally, do you have a programming connector with your 55015?

Programming MTS components with the Universal Remote
With the Universal Remote, you can program all MTS Loco
Decoders, MTS Switch Decoders (55025), MTS Rolling
Stock Decoders (55034), MTS Braking Modules (55063)
and MTS Loco Number Readout Modules (55082). To program
with the Universal Remote, remove the insert with the black
cable or the Wireless Transmitter. Replace it with the included
programming insert:
Press both textured clips at the top of the remote inward
and carefully pull out the plastic insert.
Slide the programming insert into the remote.
On the programming insert are four colored wires:
- Connect the yellow and green wires to the transformer
(minimum 2 A). We recommend the 50110/50111
AC Transformer.
- Connect the brown and white wires directly to the
MTS Switch Decoder or to an unpowered programming
track, onto which you place the loco or car with the
decoder you want to program.
After you have assembled this setup, plug the
transformer into a house current outlet.

 

[KeithT]

Hi Don
I have tried the process described- I think that you posted the details a short time ago and I copied and saved them.
I find that I can't program "5,5, 6 into the remote, When I try, at the first "5" the display switches to "S - ".
I do have a programming module but it is the loft which I am in the process of remodelling - until the bad weather that is, so the box is under a mass of other LGB boxes,
However, v many thanks for the clear instructions, I will dig out the module tomorrow and have another attempt.
Just a thought though is reprogramming possible with a loco that is only analogue or am I expecting the impossible?

 

[don9GLC]

I find that I can't program "5,5, 6 into the remote, When I try, at the first "5" the display switches to "S - ".

I will need to do a bit of reading up on that. It sounds like the remote is switching back to serial operation.

Just a thought though is reprogramming possible with a loco that is only analogue or am I expecting the impossible?

If the loco is analog only and does not have a decoder, then you are not going to be able to re-program the decoder, because it is not there! There are so many variants of the LGB models that I cannot tell immediately from the model number what to expect inside, and of course its always possible for someone to fit / remove bits. The instructions for my krok do not even give a model number! but there is one on the box and probably underneath if I turned it over. A job for tomorrow

Edit!
I've just seen your edit. OK, now I think I understand what your situation is, you can forget resetting the decoder, because its unlikely to have one. That would explain the 55015 going out of P-- mode. Its likely you have a fault on the lighting board in the krok. Curiously I have an analog loco with a lighting fault (one light failed on analog) that just causes my central station to switch off on overload. My proposed solution is to fit a decoder, but I intended adding sound anyway.

 

[KeithT]

I find that I can't program "5,5, 6 into the remote, When I try, at the first "5" the display switches to "S - ".

I will need to do a bit of reading up on that. It sounds like the remote is switching back to serial operation.

Just a thought though is reprogramming possible with a loco that is only analogue or am I expecting the impossible?

If the loco is analog only and does not have a decoder, then you are not going to be able to re-program the decoder, because it is not there! There are so many variants of the LGB models that I cannot tell immediately from the model number what to expect inside, and of course its always possible for someone to fit / remove bits. The instructions for my krok do not even give a model number! but there is one on the box and probably underneath if I turned it over. A job for tomorrow

Sorry I have wasted your time Don but the info is of use for my other locos which DO have decoders. Thanks again.
It still puzzles me why the lights are doing as they do and work differently with the different versions of remote. The problem must be in the loco - which had decoder in it before I bought it.

 

[KeithT]

I find that I can't program "5,5, 6 into the remote, When I try, at the first "5" the display switches to "S - ".

I will need to do a bit of reading up on that. It sounds like the remote is switching back to serial operation.

Just a thought though is reprogramming possible with a loco that is only analogue or am I expecting the impossible?

If the loco is analog only and does not have a decoder, then you are not going to be able to re-program the decoder, because it is not there! There are so many variants of the LGB models that I cannot tell immediately from the model number what to expect inside, and of course its always possible for someone to fit / remove bits. The instructions for my krok do not even give a model number! but there is one on the box and probably underneath if I turned it over. A job for tomorrow

Edit!
I've just seen your edit. OK, now I think I understand what your situation is, you can forget resetting the decoder, because its unlikely to have one. That would explain the 55015 going out of P-- mode. Its likely you have a fault on the lighting board in the krok. Curiously I have an analog loco with a lighting fault (one light failed on analog) that just causes my central station to switch off on overload. My proposed solution is to fit a decoder, but I intended adding sound anyway.

Don Just seen your Edit above.
I think that I may be going down the decoder/sound card road eventually although the ones I have heard for the Croc weren't too impressive. I don't know if they were LGB or Massoth.

 

[don9GLC]

The problem must be in the loco - which had decoder in it before I bought it.

Yes, I agree and its not always immediately obvious why. I suspect its to do with the way DCC simulates an analog supply. See my edit comments above. Hope you get yours fixed before me.


How much for a sound decoder? That's more than the loco cost But I want some fancy sounds.

 

[KeithT]

The problem must be in the loco - which had decoder in it before I bought it.

Yes, I agree and its not always immediately obvious why. I suspect its to do with the way DCC simulates an analog supply. See my edit comments above. Hope you get yours fixed before me.


How much for a sound decoder? That's more than the loco cost But I want some fancy sounds.

I think the last decoder I saw for a croc was around £150; not cheap but added to the original cost of the loco it would still be below the new price.