LGB Couplings reliability and some modifications to help out.

dunnyrail

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Most of use use them, many hate them, this is not a Thread to get into that debate but how to make the most of them.

Firstly I must pay tribute to DougLN who many years ago told my self and Andy Rush of his methods. I have decided to document them in a specific post as I keep banging on about this and get a little tired if repeating myself. So in the future I wil be able to link this thread, simples?

Note that the pictures relating to these methods are at the end of this Text.

Problems
We all have had problems with LGB Couplings decoupling, some of this can be related to Dodgy Track Laying but even in this case the main problem is likely to be only 1 hook fitted as LGB Stock is predominantly delivered with. As a rule LGB Stock has good trustworthy placement of Couplings and setup Gauges like those required for KD Couplings are generally not required.

Solution
So what do we need to do, well first and most importantly ALL and I Mean ALL non locomotives need two hooks. This can be an issue with older stock that can be resolved, see later. Locomotives do not need Hooks at all.

Fitting ALL non Loco stock with 2 Hooks.
How is this achieved? Well firstly search all of your LGB Boxes, that second hook and spring is likely stored in a place that may not be so obvious. Another option cos you are going to do it anyway is to swop any Hook Fitted Locomotive Couplings with Wagons or Coaches that do not have them. This will give you a few but likely not complete the job. You can get sets of 2 hooks with springs and spigots (LGB part ref 130547) for around or just under £8.00 uk, possibly cheeper if you search around or hunt on EBay or get a collection from the same source. However a health warning here, only ever buy genuine LGB ones (watch out for adds thatbsay "Like LGB or compatible", other makes may not fit or the plastic is so rubbish that they will not last for long or they may be slightly different in some way. Hartland Couplings for instance are notoriously difficult to uncouple as the Springs are so strong. So we have all of our Stock fitted with a (genuine LGB) hook on each end and yet still we get some unwanted uncouplings, what is to be done now?

Loco Modifications
This is a quite simple fix, a small piece of 20 or 30 thou Plasticard 8mm x 18mm will fit nicely inside the Coupling Box where it screws onto the Loco. A small hole needs to be drilled to allow the screw to fit back through and secure the coupling. This will have the effect of lowering the Hook on any vehicle that is coupled to it, thus pretty well stopping decoupling events.

Turning Spring Over
Sometimes the hook can be a bit droopy, over time the Springs can tend to get a bit of a memory effect and cause this. Removing and turning the spring over can resolve the issue, but in the long term a new one may be required.

Older Couplings
These can be a bit of an issue to fit that second hook to as they are not all made for one to be fitted. However a new hook can be made from Plasticard and fitted with a hole drilled to hold in place with a small screw or piece of wire and a small piece of lead to ensure that it is held correct for Coupling Purposes. Another alternative may be to source Wheel Assemblies for these older vehicles that have a hook or if you can get them, newer ones that take the current hook.

Not too happy with the look of LGB Couplings?
Well S-Kuplix a German make have a somewhat neater Loop and they can with some midifications help with closer Coupling. Link to these below.

S-Kuplix - for short coupling

Stock stored in LGB or other bixes.
LGB Boxes in general are not made for two Hooks to be fitted which is generaly why the second one is hidden somewhere. On fitting it is well worth while if you can to modify the box so that that second hook is accomodated or suffer damaged springs. With made up boxes a piece of Toilet Roll cut to protect the Coupling is always worthwhile doing.


So that concludes my little ramble save for the pictures.

Coupling Modification 20 or 30 thou Plasticard 8x18mm with hole drilled.

image.jpeg
Shown as fitted in this case to a Loco Front Bogie.image.jpeg
Note the difference on the lowered coupling shown by the protruding red on the right and the original on the left.image.jpeg
Showing the effect of lowering the Coupling, the hook will always be under slight tension thus resisting decoupling much better on dodgy track or under severe stopping. The piece of Rail illustrates the drop on the Loco Coupling Hook.image.jpeg
Now hooked up showing the slightly depressed hook on the Wagon.image.jpeg
Stock fitted with these Couplings are not all made to take a second hook.image.jpeg
But it is a simple job to make one and hold in place with a small nut and bolt in a drilled hole, an old piece of wire does the job just as effectively bent over at each end. A small piece of lead will ensure that the hooks sits properly.
image.jpeg
 
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Madman

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First, I have shied away from early LGB rolling stock with that type of coupling, simply because I want hooks on both ends of each car. What a great solution.

Second, I have learned something new, thanks to John S. Just shows how stuck I am in my little world at time. I've never delved into the resource tab in all the years I've been here. Thanks John.
 

dunnyrail

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Excellent article, took the liberty of downloading it and converting it to a PDF, can be found here,
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=54AAD70B281BBE69&resid=54AAD70B281BBE69!1958&authkey=AMwfBcWQ37u1iz8&em=2

Would suggest that, rather than as Topic or Post, save in the Resource Area to be readily available rather than in the future hunting for a thread or topic.
Thanks for the complement of your conversion to a .PDF. If I knew how to save to the resources area would be more than hapy to do so.
 

dunnyrail

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Can you explain why locomotives do not need hooks if you have difficulty with uncoupling?

Thanks, Greg
It is much easier when Timetable running if you have just a run round and Locomotives look just that little bit better without the hooks.
 
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JimmyB

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