Lgb Ballat Wagons - Couplings

Alan-1956

Alan-1956

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Currently have one of these and going to get more,

Don't like the LGB Couplers and would like to see what you guys would do as a replacement.
Would prefer KD Knuckle couplings but thought "loose coupling" would look better.

So Loose couplings using chain or the like is the go.
So what would the general census of opinion be as to the best sort of coupling to make to fit and how to fit them as there isn't much of a chassis or chassis rails to work with.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You....

Alan

DSCN5465

DSCN5465

  • Media owner Alan-1956
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DSCN5464

DSCN5464

  • Media owner Alan-1956
  • Date added
 
LGB used to produce Link & Pin couplings useful for small Feldbahn type vehicles I will come back with part number if a few minutes!!
 
019.JPG 018.JPG From LGB 2006 catalogue Link & Pin couplings,
See photos for description

In 30+ years of using LGB & G scale I have tried many coupling types, but i always return to standard LGB hook & Loops as being the most reliable And problem free ( always use hooks on both ends of vehicles though

64777 may not now be available but it is surprising what some retailers still have stock of!
 
Link and pin couplings have running problems on R1 reverse curves - as Steve says standard LGB with hooks at both ends works best on undulating narrow gauge garden lines.
 
you will get buffer lock with chain and hook couplings - even on larger curves.
 
I have the best luck with the standard LGB hook and loop couplers, like some others have said here. I tried Knuckle couplers and the LGB Link & Pin style, but returned to hook & loop.
 
I have some scratch built stuff that I made link and pin coupling for. With fingers like a bunch of bananas it wasn't the best idea!
 
Did a check of the very few Model Railway Shops here in Adelaide (Very few deal in G Gauge - only two) and nothing forth coming,
So will recheck al the posts here first, to see if someone else may have come up with a fix or failing that see what I can come up with.

BTW: All my rolling stock and motive power are fitted with KD Knuckle couplings, look good (My opinion anyway) and with all the test running I have done they work just peachy keen.

Each to his own I suppose.

Thanks for your help thus far guys......
 
Many Thanks Robert,
Just what I was after, Damm fine article you have found, weathering the wagons is a way to go as well.
Will definitely sign up to Rik's blog as well.

"Ask and tho shalt receive"

Appreciated.

Alan
 
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Thanks GAP,

Now they do look the part.
Will have a serious look at these .

Appreciated
 
I find three link chain absolutely fine. I have not experienced any problems either hauling or propelling skips using this method.image.jpg
 
That's interesting, Casey. I know we talked about this in the past. I would think that the chain would foul while pushing the skips. I would also think that the end beams would tend to interlock while pushing.
 
That looks like a typical 16mm coupling with the three chain loops - they dont seem to have any problems.
 
Madman said:
That's interesting, Casey. I know we talked about this in the past. I would think that the chain would foul while pushing the skips. I would also think that the end beams would tend to interlock while pushing.
Click to expand...
I've never had a problem pushing the skips, the chain seems to keep out of the way and the end beams never interlock. I have pushed 20 skips through two pairs of radius 1 points without any interlocking or derailments. Except for the empty skips, I put extra weight in the skips.
 
Good point, Greg. But like you, I would to see Casey post a photo or video.
 
image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
Greg Elmassian said:
It would be nice to see a picture of the chain and car ends in "push mode", but I'd be willing to bet as the center link drops, that bit of chain keeps the car ends from interlocking, by keeping them apart a bit.

Greg
Click to expand...
You are absolutely right Greg. Pictures from this morning clearly show that the middle link invariably drops down between the skips thereby keeping the ends slightly apart.
 
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