LGB Anna

JimmyB

JimmyB

Now retired - trains and fishing
Country flag
Sunday at the show I bought an LGB Anna (92277), and on the test track seemed to run okay:
Anna-side-view.jpg

Anna-side-view.jpg

Side view of Anna

However closer inspection at home showed the motor retaining base plate ill fitted and twisted, removed and refitted run and all seemed well. However today I decided to take a closed, more detailed inspection, and it transpires that the two centre retaining screws had been tightened so much that plastic that retains the screw head is broken off and the plate has a slight warp:
Anna-base-plate.jpg

Anna-base-plate.jpg

Anna motor retaining base plate

Inside and an inspection of the "guts" shows most this in order, though one of the lugs to the aux power outlet was loose:
Anna-board.jpg

Anna-board.jpg

Anna curcuit board

Motor look a little different to what I was expecting:
Anna-motor.jpg

Anna-motor.jpg

Anna motor

Reassembled and tested, not picking up from all the wheels, somewhat intermittent, the rods have been previously "adjusted", my thoughts are remove and clean the contacts and straighten the rods and when replace a spot of solder to hold them in place:
Anna-Pick-ups.jpg

Anna-Pick-ups.jpg

Anna base plate removed showing pick-ups

All in all not a bad purchase, the smoke works, surprised there is no sound, but what I fail to understand is the purpose of the three-way switch - Off / Lights & Smoke / Run, Lights & Smoke !!!
 
I think that is one of the Korean-built models, with a Toytrain gearbox - they are notorious for parts like the gearbox baseplates cracking due to overtightening, just as on yours, due to the inferior plastics used on them (compared with "proper" German-built LGB).

The three position cab switch is present on almost all LGB locos (though on DCC-equipped ones it doesn't actually do anything); it is there so that under DC power you can "park" an analogue loco on a non-isolated siding with lights and smoke either on or off, to choice.

Jon.
 
JimmyB said:
Jon, it does have "Made in Korea" on the base, but the main issue was poor assembly previously, I suspect trying to sort the contacts out!
Click to expand...
Piko tend to solder the Plungers to the Wires but I am none to sure if the practice. Means you ha e to unsolder if ever they need to be replaced / cleaned. A good clean up,of both Plungers and Wires should make a big difference. Looking at the Chassis the place where the screws go in looks fine. But if the thread is stripped filling the hole with some sort of filler then putting the screw back in with a little oil on helps to make a new internal thread. As for the Chassis Botton Plate being broken so that the screw goes through a small thin washer on the damaged ones may help here. You could possibly glue them in place for the future.

Just some thoughts, hope I am not telling Granny how to suck eggs! But some newer members may get something out of my words.
 
Yep, the Korean made ones tend to crack the base plate where the screws go in. The screw bosses are not as big compared to the German made ones and the plastic is not as good either.
'Rusty' is another Korean one. 'Casey' is a German one. There are several others too.
 
The issue is that the centre boss of the two centre on the have gone, so it does not tighten down, so the rods only intermittently touch the plungers, what I really need is a new base plate, if anybody has a part number (that is still active) I am content to purchase one.
 
JimmyB said:
The issue is that the centre boss of the two centre on the have gone, so it does not tighten down, so the rods only intermittently touch the plungers, what I really need is a new base plate, if anybody has a part number (that is still active) I am content to purchase one.
Click to expand...
The other option might be to scratch one out of Copper Clad, this tends to be pretty stable. Use the Uninsulated side down and for security some insulating cuts round the screws and sides.
 
Paradise said:
Yep, the Korean made ones tend to crack the base plate where the screws go in. The screw bosses are not as big compared to the German made ones and the plastic is not as good either.
'Rusty' is another Korean one. 'Casey' is a German one. There are several others too.
Click to expand...
LGB did not have the acumen to manage their overseas, outsourced manufacturing. It's a shame, as it took the gloss off a product that had a reputation for being as tough as old boots.
 
The German bottom plates have a central reinforcing ridge on the inside. There are also raised reinforcing ridges on both edges of the plate on the outside/bottom.
They can look very similar to a common LGB Stainz bottom plate but the screw holes are a slightly different spacing.
The eBay seller in the link below has bottom plates as parts. The model numbers may not match up but you could ask about the screw spacing to determine if one will fit.
warenburg-lutz auf eBay
You could also ask Modell-Land who don't currently list the part but may be able to source one for you.
LGB Ersatzteile für die H.K. Porter 22771 Dampflok kaufen
Some small washers under longer screws will be a cheap fix. It's not as if it is a rare collectible to keep in original condition. The cost will be your guide.

252496
 
So complete strip down and clean, the issue being the rods that touch the pick-ups, once I had the all touching and working assembly saw that stop. It would seem the bottom plate just will not hold them firmly in place. Some slithers of copper sheet folded in half and placed between the rods and contacts made a temporary fix. I have ordered the HK Porter (item # 72460) bottom plate, though my require a little modification.
Next anomaly the "banana plug" sockets at the rear! My Tender with sound has two 2-pin sockets (front and rear) and I identified that the right hand pin is powered by the right hand track and left hand pin left hand track, and used the same principle for the sockets I have fitted. I come to connect Anna to the tender, and nothing, to find the "banana plug" sockets are the other way around, why!!
 
JimmyB said:
So complete strip down and clean, the issue being the rods that touch the pick-ups, once I had the all touching and working assembly saw that stop. It would seem the bottom plate just will not hold them firmly in place. Some slithers of copper sheet folded in half and placed between the rods and contacts made a temporary fix. I have ordered the HK Porter (item # 72460) bottom plate, though my require a little modification.
Next anomaly the "banana plug" sockets at the rear! My Tender with sound has two 2-pin sockets (front and rear) and I identified that the right hand pin is powered by the right hand track and left hand pin left hand track, and used the same principle for the sockets I have fitted. I come to connect Anna to the tender, and nothing, to find the "banana plug" sockets are the other way around, why!!
Click to expand...
Hm could be something with the way the German mind thinks? They do after all at times say things back to front which makes learning the language somewhat tricky for us Brits.
 
today i carried out a bit more renovation on my Anna changing out the damaged chimney assembly (which meant change the body) (many thanks Rik for the parts). On re-assembly the smoke no longer works I think I may ave burnt is out. It seem the two banana connectors at the rear are 5 volts only and having applied track power to them to many volts to the smoke generator.

Question, I could find an 18 volt connection on the curcuit board so am i better off fitting a 18 volt item or sticking with 5 volts.
 
I think the 5 volt unit gives better smoke at lower speeds and the 18 volt unit less prone to burning out.
 
I had exactly the same issue with an analog 'Rusty' (4 screws in line bottom plate.) Due to the difficulty in obtaining a new one I swapped out the centre gearbox / chassis section and bottom plate for an 'Otto' one (4 small screws in a rectangle shape an a lrger one at each end
) The original top plate fitted. Job done.
Regards Paul.
 
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