LGB 24430 Zouz dip switches

nicebutdim

nicebutdim

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Hi, my first post on here so here goes....
I have an 24430 ge 4/4 II, that had been fitted with a decoder before I took ownership. I have decided to remove the decoder as it was playing a little havoc with the operation of the pantographs raising and the initial starting speed. I had a look at what I could find with regards to the dip switch settings, but can't find anything specific for this loco. The problem is that there are two sets of dip switches, one set parallel to the connections for the decoders, and another set at right angles to the first. I have removed the decoders already, and set all the dip switches in the adjacent bank to the other way from which they were before, does anyone know if this is correct? Do any of the switches in the bank at right angles need to be touched (I think these may only control operations of the pantographs). If anyone has any specific instructions for this loco for the fitting or removal of decoders could you please help me, as I don't want to fry the circuit board on this fantastic model!!
Been getting some great ideas from many of the threads on here, and so much help from just reading through every day.
Many thanks, Tim
 
Sorry Tim just tried Champex but Zuoz isn't listed. The problem with the pantographs could have been resolved by adding a relay. Massoth do a good one.

Before any says anything my Zuoz is a hibred new body on Arosa running gear

4013de44d09a4aa9954289fd7b3cbb1d.jpg


The pantograph issue has now been resolved BTW
 
BTW I now have four of these Arosa, Felsberg, Zouz and thelatest Klosters.

The first three are all old models, pre 94

Klosters is Feb 94 so it's border line I think. But it's out of bounds till 14th

If I can find out I willl let you know
 
That's the problem I had, I searched high and low for information on the switch settings but can't find anything at all. Strangely there was 2 decoders in it, one for operation and another that the sound unit was attatched to, but the power to the sound unit was just wired across the power input to the decoder, so the decoder could have had no influence on the sound operation. I removed the sound leads from the decoder and plugged them to where the power supply for the decoder was taken from (track voltage) and this seems to be working fine, and I have now tested all operation with no decoders at all, seems to be ok, although I haven't 'turned it up' yet. I'm still not sure about my setting of the dip switches yet, so would just like to confirm if anyone knows their setting for anologue with no decoders...
 
Whose decoders are they Tim ?
 
nicebutdim said:
That's the problem I had, I searched high and low for information on the switch settings but can't find anything at all. Strangely there was 2 decoders in it, one for operation and another that the sound unit was attatched to, but the power to the sound unit was just wired across the power input to the decoder, so the decoder could have had no influence on the sound operation. I removed the sound leads from the decoder and plugged them to where the power supply for the decoder was taken from (track voltage) and this seems to be working fine, and I have now tested all operation with no decoders at all, seems to be ok, although I haven't 'turned it up' yet. I'm still not sure about my setting of the dip switches yet, so would just like to confirm if anyone knows their setting for anologue with no decoders...
Click to expand...

That would be great, I'm not in any great rush as of yet. Still gotta start track laying outside, but everything obtained and taking every spare ounce of space around the house, so just getting prepared at the moment.
 
Sorry about qouting myself there, dunno how I did that...
 
Both decoders are LGB 55021
 
Really each decoder should have been connected one to each motor block
 
BTW Welcome to the forum:wave:
 
I was shocked even to find 2! The one for control has a ribbon cable attached along with the soldered 4 colour wires, and the other only has the 4 soldered leads, with the sound unit getting it's power from the brown and white lead where they are attached to the decoder. Strange why someone would pay out for an un-used decoder.
 
People do funny things in this grey art( MTS)

Obviously done by an expert:rolleyes:
 
As I can see!! I have quite a good knowledge of electronics and electrics but this one stumped me, I considered on leaving the decoders in and as it was but not happy with the anologue operation with them there.

P.s. thanks for the welcome, I love joining these forums as everyone is really helpful
 
Tim I've just managed a sneak look at Klosters. It appears to be three wire motor blocks so major surgery will be required.

That means we're no closer with your problem
 
I think mine is exactly the same with 3 wires to each block. I had a look at instructions for installing decoders in other locomotives and they all say about moving all the dip switches to (i think) the on postion, so I placed all my switches to the off position. Everything seems to be ok, I've had a number of tests with it now, but for the life of me I just cannot find the foctory settings anywhere! The pantographs now raise and lower as they should, instead of when the loco is doing a scale speed of about 20 mph. The only issue I have now found is the whistle doesn't always blow on the sound unit, but I've had that issue with another loco before. I have the sound turned right down anyway, as I also like the natural sounds of the model. There must be somewhere that has a reference to the dip switch settings, but I feel I may have to polish up on my german....:wits:
 
nicebutdim said:
I think mine is exactly the same with 3 wires to each block. I had a look at instructions for installing decoders in other locomotives and they all say about moving all the dip switches to (i think) the on postion, so I placed all my switches to the off position. Everything seems to be ok, I've had a number of tests with it now, but for the life of me I just cannot find the foctory settings anywhere! The pantographs now raise and lower as they should, instead of when the loco is doing a scale speed of about 20 mph. The only issue I have now found is the whistle doesn't always blow on the sound unit, but I've had that issue with another loco before. I have the sound turned right down anyway, as I also like the natural sounds of the model. There must be somewhere that has a reference to the dip switch settings, but I feel I may have to polish up on my german....:wits:
Click to expand...

According to the drawing it should be four wire blocks
http://www.champex-linden.de/lgb_pr...0467cf6/0306ccb6ea62f8d6c12568ee00377578.html
 
I need to get the body off and check, tbh I can't remember, when it is off I shall take a photo of the switches that are worrying me. I like how the operating instructions just give a hint as to how the dip switches should be set if decoders are fitted!
 
nicebutdim said:
I need to get the body off and check, tbh I can't remember, when it is off I shall take a photo of the switches that are worrying me. I like how the operating instructions just give a hint as to how the dip switches should be set if decoders are fitted!
Click to expand...

There should be red ones which should be left alone and the others should be all switched off when the decoders are fitted. BUT i can't tell you which should be on or off
 
d55a1756fc0f48eeb0a1c9f8d76cba33.jpg

I haven't touched the switches in the upper bank in the picture, but have reset all the lower to 'on'. I'm hoping this is correct for the board with the decoder(s) disconnected.
 
p.s. sorry for the poor picture quality, best I could get that close...
 
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