Check the tightness of all the bogie screws (ringed in red). The bogie should be free to rock a little from side to side and, as the bogie has compensation, one side frame should be free to rock back and forth. I found the odd screw too tight, and in one case loosening it alone wasn’t enough, I had to do a little judicious plastic filing to get it to function to my satisfaction.
I’m not keen on the white plastic coupling spring, this has been replaced by an LGB spare, the second bogie also has one fitted with an additional LGB hook. The wheels have been replaced by Bachmann metal wheels, not too expensive and nice and heavy to give additional weight low down, just where it’s most needed.
The blank area of the floor with the maker’s mark is the site for the battery box. I chose to use a switched PP3 type battery box from Maplins, (code L90AN) and Mr Dremel has already removed a piece of brake rodding moulding in readiness.
Next remove the roof by pulling it upwards from the body. It’s quite a tight fit and will need a little (but not too much) force. Lift out the pair of sliding doors, these have holes for a handle, but no handle. I made handles from short lengths of copper conductor from a piece of 2.5mm squared mains cable as shown.
Now remove the screws (eight in total) highlighted in yellow in the first picture and separate the body from the frame. This is designed to be assembled one way round only. Take a look at the asymmetry of the screws (highlighted in yellow) that secure the seats to the body and note the recesses in the frame (highlighted in red) for these screw heads.
Observe the lack of a set of double seats. I suspect the LGB version has a toilet compartment fitted in this gap.
As the window here, in common with all the others, is clear I decided to make up additional seating from 2mm high impact polystyrene sheet. Unscrew and remove all the seats, the double ones to make the additional ones and the single ones to place the copper strip underneath them.
The wiring is done on the single seat side to prevent any possible interference with the operation of the sliding doors.
I’m not keen on the white plastic coupling spring, this has been replaced by an LGB spare, the second bogie also has one fitted with an additional LGB hook. The wheels have been replaced by Bachmann metal wheels, not too expensive and nice and heavy to give additional weight low down, just where it’s most needed.
The blank area of the floor with the maker’s mark is the site for the battery box. I chose to use a switched PP3 type battery box from Maplins, (code L90AN) and Mr Dremel has already removed a piece of brake rodding moulding in readiness.
Next remove the roof by pulling it upwards from the body. It’s quite a tight fit and will need a little (but not too much) force. Lift out the pair of sliding doors, these have holes for a handle, but no handle. I made handles from short lengths of copper conductor from a piece of 2.5mm squared mains cable as shown.
Now remove the screws (eight in total) highlighted in yellow in the first picture and separate the body from the frame. This is designed to be assembled one way round only. Take a look at the asymmetry of the screws (highlighted in yellow) that secure the seats to the body and note the recesses in the frame (highlighted in red) for these screw heads.
Observe the lack of a set of double seats. I suspect the LGB version has a toilet compartment fitted in this gap.
As the window here, in common with all the others, is clear I decided to make up additional seating from 2mm high impact polystyrene sheet. Unscrew and remove all the seats, the double ones to make the additional ones and the single ones to place the copper strip underneath them.
The wiring is done on the single seat side to prevent any possible interference with the operation of the sliding doors.
thanks