LED Building Lighting
- Thread starter Madman
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Lobethalbahn2
Registered
Ikea sell a string of 12 or 24 LEDs with a solar input "Solarvet" (AU$12.99/19.99) here in Australia. Don't know if they have them in the US.
viaEstrecha
Spanish metre gauge in G scale (on the cheap)
My 'experience' is actually that of a friend who tinkered with solar lighting on his garden railway. He tried to adapt several types of stand-alone units from garden lamps, such as removing the solar panel to place it in the optimum position adjacent to the building in which the lamp part had been installed, but in almost all cases the results were fairly short-lived. I think it was possibly that the batteries just gave up after a season. He did have more luck when he tried a meatier arrangement, with a larger panel and unit, feeding several lamps, though again despite putting a couple in parallel to increase the storage capacity, the units also failed after 2 seasons (they never did work very well in the winter anyway). This of course still required wiring to distribute to each location and so negates the simplicity of stand-alone lighting for each position.
Perhaps the technology has improved now, but like so much 'green' kit, it still has a long way to go in my opinion. That said, Dra. Estrecha's decorative solar garden lighting is proving quite robust and some 60-LED displays branded 'Solalite' (sold through Amazon) have been reliable and impressive for 15 months' continuous use so far. As for me, I stick with hard wired model lighting throughout the garden and have solar panels for the house, so I help save the planet in a different way
Perhaps the technology has improved now, but like so much 'green' kit, it still has a long way to go in my opinion. That said, Dra. Estrecha's decorative solar garden lighting is proving quite robust and some 60-LED displays branded 'Solalite' (sold through Amazon) have been reliable and impressive for 15 months' continuous use so far. As for me, I stick with hard wired model lighting throughout the garden and have solar panels for the house, so I help save the planet in a different way
I think most the cheap garden lights will fail quite rapidly..
The panels a re not very good quality-wise, and either go cloudy, or let the weather in.. Then there is the problem of non-descript nasty rechargeable cells, and iffy electronics.. The temperature cycling of these small cells, from hot summer sun to freezing winter temperatures probably doesn't help either??
If you do something more robust, then you might as well wire back to a dedicated supply. - Cost about the same??
But if you want to 'tinker' and bodge a couple of cheapy garden light to a couple of odd buildings, you will lose more in time than money probably.
The panels a re not very good quality-wise, and either go cloudy, or let the weather in.. Then there is the problem of non-descript nasty rechargeable cells, and iffy electronics.. The temperature cycling of these small cells, from hot summer sun to freezing winter temperatures probably doesn't help either??
If you do something more robust, then you might as well wire back to a dedicated supply. - Cost about the same??
But if you want to 'tinker' and bodge a couple of cheapy garden light to a couple of odd buildings, you will lose more in time than money probably.
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
I have tried many types of solar lighting for the garden but use hardwired for the layout.
The garden ones would generally fail at a rate of about 75% after a couple of years.
After examining them it was generally the battery giving out or condensation that had caused corrosion of the cheap metal contacts.
The batteries can be replaced and the units can be protected a bit more from new with vaseline or even silicon if really good coverage is ensured.
Having said this I do have some (of the same model as the failed ones) that are still going after 5 years with no battery replacement and no protection....weird
The garden ones would generally fail at a rate of about 75% after a couple of years.
After examining them it was generally the battery giving out or condensation that had caused corrosion of the cheap metal contacts.
The batteries can be replaced and the units can be protected a bit more from new with vaseline or even silicon if really good coverage is ensured.
Having said this I do have some (of the same model as the failed ones) that are still going after 5 years with no battery replacement and no protection....weird
Rod Fearnley
Santa Fe and Burlington Northern at amalgamation
Hard wired LEDs to a Malibu garden lighting timer transformer. One thing that I have learnt is, spray all bare metal around the LEDs with a clear lacquer before putting them outside. Really does hinder corrosion. I have had no problems with stuff that has been out two and three years now.
riderdan
Registered
Those cheap Chinese outdoor solar lights are (usually) made with inferior solar panels and batteries. Which is why they're cheap 
Keep in mind that the efficiency of solar panels decreases with time; some panels lose as much as 5% of efficiency per year. Considering that the batteries in these systems are bottom of the line, as the marginal efficiency of the panel drops and the battery deteriorates from cycling, they're likely going to go downhill in just a year or two.
Also, the efficiency of the system is partly determined by your location (higher latitudes get less sun) and whether the panels are kept clean. Even a modicum of dust, dirt, or water deposits can make a significant difference in how much power is generated.
I tried a set of those a year ago as I was testing things for my railway, and they barely "glowed" when they were new (not like actual lights, more of a glow-worm kind of light) I decided to go hard wired--I can get bulk WW LEDs with resistors from eBay for just pennies a piece. I'm powering several dozen these with a laptop power supply, get bright light and have had no problems thus far.
Keep in mind that the efficiency of solar panels decreases with time; some panels lose as much as 5% of efficiency per year. Considering that the batteries in these systems are bottom of the line, as the marginal efficiency of the panel drops and the battery deteriorates from cycling, they're likely going to go downhill in just a year or two.
Also, the efficiency of the system is partly determined by your location (higher latitudes get less sun) and whether the panels are kept clean. Even a modicum of dust, dirt, or water deposits can make a significant difference in how much power is generated.
I tried a set of those a year ago as I was testing things for my railway, and they barely "glowed" when they were new (not like actual lights, more of a glow-worm kind of light) I decided to go hard wired--I can get bulk WW LEDs with resistors from eBay for just pennies a piece. I'm powering several dozen these with a laptop power supply, get bright light and have had no problems thus far.
Madman
Registered
In my early experiments, I used a light sensor that worked with low voltage. Power for the LEDs, in the structures, was provided by 9 volt batteries. Problem was that the sensor needed a separate battery which didn't last very long as the sensor was constantly drawing power, albeit minimal.
I do have a couple of solar spotlights aimed at certain buildings. They are inexpensive units made to mount on gutters or fences, full size. They have been running for a few years now, although I have replaced the batteries once. They light up a night scene rather nicely. But still, I would like some interior solar powered lighting.
I might do as has been suggested and just keep experimenting.
I do have a couple of solar spotlights aimed at certain buildings. They are inexpensive units made to mount on gutters or fences, full size. They have been running for a few years now, although I have replaced the batteries once. They light up a night scene rather nicely. But still, I would like some interior solar powered lighting.
I might do as has been suggested and just keep experimenting.
nicebutdim
Registered
I've just started using an 80W solar panel, 12 deep cycle battery and a solar charge controller that automatically switches the lights on at dusk. Bit of an overkill at the moment but as more leds get added it will be used more to it's potential.
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
When I build my new layout I am seriously thinking of going down the road of powering my lights from a Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) battery hidden in abuilding connected to a trickle charger with timer.
I have an old 24Vac garden light timer that I will use if it will take DC, more experimentation to come on that.
This is the type of charger I am considering http://www.batterystuff.com/solar-chargers/5-10-watts/
I have an old 24Vac garden light timer that I will use if it will take DC, more experimentation to come on that.
This is the type of charger I am considering http://www.batterystuff.com/solar-chargers/5-10-watts/
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
The few lights I have are hardwired to a 5v charger/power unit in the shed. The unit is plugged into a timer.
The station is meant to be removed for winter. To protect the electrical connection, I fitted it into a small plastic bottle (Vick`s Vapour Rub). However, I didn`t take it in this winter and the wind blew the station off the layout. The blue bottle complete with connection has never been found.
The Lighthouse is fed from the same supply.
My depot is equipped with 3v Leds and just operated off two AA cells.
The station is meant to be removed for winter. To protect the electrical connection, I fitted it into a small plastic bottle (Vick`s Vapour Rub). However, I didn`t take it in this winter and the wind blew the station off the layout. The blue bottle complete with connection has never been found.
The Lighthouse is fed from the same supply.
My depot is equipped with 3v Leds and just operated off two AA cells.
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Madman
Registered
"My depot is equipped with 3v Leds and just operated off two AA cells".
I tried that one year and it was fairly satisfactory. That's when I incorporated the light sensors, because I didn't want to have to switch the lights each building off separately.
That said, AA batteries will last a very long tome when powering LEDs.
I tried that one year and it was fairly satisfactory. That's when I incorporated the light sensors, because I didn't want to have to switch the lights each building off separately.
That said, AA batteries will last a very long tome when powering LEDs.
kim
retired at last
I have domestic burglar alarm batteries with either 1.2 or 3 led's attached with croc clips through a push on/off switch, lift a building hit the switch and light shines. When it gets very wet - just like tonight - they are lifted out and kept in the dry and come winter stored in the house. Takes a minute or so to get them all switched on, no hassle.
Kim
Kim
kim
retired at last
Know what you mean Dan. I currently only have Piko/Pola and 2 Aristo station buildings and they don't mind being moved or having the roof lifted, whereas I seem to remember you have built your own buildings. I also store the buildings in winter as well, I live a mile from the coast and the winter winds are something else!
Kim
Kim