Just starting out in G gauge
- Thread starter Sarah Winfield
- Start date
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
LSD technology ? 
Max
Max
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
LSD technology ?
Low Self Discharge, I think..... or Limited Slip Diff, but not in this context....
Makes me think of going into an electrical or audio store, finding a particularly gormless looking assistant and asking if a particular piece of equipment comes with LRF Support.....
That's Little Rubber Feet under the case.....
Jon.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Serious thread drift here. I remember my first job, 16 years old and all wet behind the ears, at the local DIY shop. I was asked by the manager to go fetch an Ammerfore. I ask in all innocence, " What's an Ammerfore ?" Manager replies, "Banging in ruddy nails m'boy !". There is always that and the copier engineer's standby, the Japanese reset.......another application for an Ammerfore perhaps ? Max
Madman
Registered
Welcome aboard Sarah. I pretty much agree with what all of the members who have posted to your thread have said.
I converted to battery power eight years ago. Best thing I ever did. While I see that you live on the other side of the pond, I would like to share with you, the R/C components I use. It is an American company, G Scale Graphics. The owner, Del Tapparo, is a retired aeronautics engineer. Have a look at his website. In it, he explains in plain English, what you need to know and what you need to purchase, to make battery running as simple as you want it. When you get to the site, click on electronics.
https://www.gscalegraphics.net
I converted to battery power eight years ago. Best thing I ever did. While I see that you live on the other side of the pond, I would like to share with you, the R/C components I use. It is an American company, G Scale Graphics. The owner, Del Tapparo, is a retired aeronautics engineer. Have a look at his website. In it, he explains in plain English, what you need to know and what you need to purchase, to make battery running as simple as you want it. When you get to the site, click on electronics.
https://www.gscalegraphics.net
tac foley
Registered
In addition, his thing in life is a range of self-adhesive vinyl decals of the most amazing tenacity and variety - hence the name of the company. I've had some of his vinyl decals for 12 - 14 years and they are still as good as new. Just like Stan Cedarleaf, he is a custom decal maker - only the medium is different.
tac
OVGRS
tac
OVGRS
Sarah Winfield
Registered
The thread seems to have gone off the rails so I'll try to re-rail it again.
I don't mind the idea of a separate vehicle behind my locomotive to get me going and hopefully things will improve as I gain experience.
Here are 3 links to possible locomotives that I am watching on ebay. I have chosen these as locomotives which at a later date might lend themselves to modification..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/afoulds/...omMakeTrack=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
https://picclick.co.uk/LGB-22620-DR-Black-Kof-0-6-0-Digital-152955033767.html
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LGB-2060...042424?hash=item5b45247a38:g:bfYAAOSwfXFarUym
I have my DCC Stainz. and with some elbow grease on my tracks I can at least enjoy.
I would appreciate any thoughts members might have, please.
Sarah
I don't mind the idea of a separate vehicle behind my locomotive to get me going and hopefully things will improve as I gain experience.
Here are 3 links to possible locomotives that I am watching on ebay. I have chosen these as locomotives which at a later date might lend themselves to modification..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/afoulds/...omMakeTrack=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
https://picclick.co.uk/LGB-22620-DR-Black-Kof-0-6-0-Digital-152955033767.html
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LGB-2060...042424?hash=item5b45247a38:g:bfYAAOSwfXFarUym
I have my DCC Stainz. and with some elbow grease on my tracks I can at least enjoy.
I would appreciate any thoughts members might have, please.
Sarah
Just be careful with eBay! If you read through some of the threads, you'll find some people have managed to get bargains, but others have been unlucky.
Gavin Sowry
Garden Railroader and Raconteur
Keep it simple, get the train set to do what it was made for, get some experience, have fun.... and if the fun stops, look at other things like 'modifying' (i.e. converting to battery etc. etc.).
Don't leap before you can walk. I've been walking that talk for 18 years on my railway, and only (reluctantly) decided on one battery conversion so I could 'play away'.
Don't leap before you can walk. I've been walking that talk for 18 years on my railway, and only (reluctantly) decided on one battery conversion so I could 'play away'.
tac foley
Registered
The general consensus here is for you to see a model in action before parting with your money - something that is only possible at a show or at a get-together. After all, for most of us we are not talking about a casual amount of money, but a substantial outlay.
Any dealer at a show will show the model working on a handy track, in my experience, anyhow.
tac
Any dealer at a show will show the model working on a handy track, in my experience, anyhow.
tac
stevedenver
Registered
Officious, intermeddling, but well meaning yank here......
Respectfully SW,
1 if you dont have the technical ability to install or trouble shoot battery power, think carefully about this aspect.
2 the key to using track power (and i have absolutley no preference in this regard) is clean track with clean, tightly fitted rail joiners. Level too. i suggest this track power option as a first foray, respectfully, because it is the most common and is "ready to run ", readily available and, likely, short of the Roundhouse, the best commerical quality.
3 the KEY TO HAPPINESS with model trains, is smooth, trouble free operation. This also appears in the GOod Book, but icannot recall verse and chapter. LOL
4 Ebay is great, provided you know enough to be able to assess what it is youre getting. I agree, choose used items with care. Some considerations, but not all , may be apparent wear to loco wheels and skates, apparent missing parts (very pricey in some cases to locate) , overall cleanliness and box, and , critically, price. Many ebay sellers are not far below discount new locos, at least here in the colonies.
5 i do have a strong bias toward LGB/Marklin, although , they are track powered. For the most part, they are extremely reliable , well engineered, extremely forgiving of knocks (do not underestimate this ) and inclement weather. and will not give you a headache, due to the loco's inherent quality. They can be converted to battery.
6 if you were to ask me, and assuming i nor anyone else would be around to help, or that you might well shun my type, LOL, and be left to yourself, thank you very much, in the confines of the garden , gin and tonic in hand, id suggest that you buy a starter LGB set, passenger or freight, as you fancy. These will be track powered, but can easily be retro fitted battery. The ones with locos with smoke units, i believe, will have a socket on the rear cab of the loco. This can be ideal for a plug in battery system, i believe. I am not, however, able to give you first hand advice in this regard.
I know of no one that has ever regretted having purchased an LGB starter set. Add a bit of track and a structure and some points, and you will have a lot of fun. I certainly loved mine and still do , several decades , and several hundred additions thereto, post acquisition.
I concur, spend a touch more, see it first, and buy from a reliable source. You can then progress to battery.
Best of luck and happiness.
Respectfully SW,
1 if you dont have the technical ability to install or trouble shoot battery power, think carefully about this aspect.
2 the key to using track power (and i have absolutley no preference in this regard) is clean track with clean, tightly fitted rail joiners. Level too. i suggest this track power option as a first foray, respectfully, because it is the most common and is "ready to run ", readily available and, likely, short of the Roundhouse, the best commerical quality.
3 the KEY TO HAPPINESS with model trains, is smooth, trouble free operation. This also appears in the GOod Book, but icannot recall verse and chapter. LOL
4 Ebay is great, provided you know enough to be able to assess what it is youre getting. I agree, choose used items with care. Some considerations, but not all , may be apparent wear to loco wheels and skates, apparent missing parts (very pricey in some cases to locate) , overall cleanliness and box, and , critically, price. Many ebay sellers are not far below discount new locos, at least here in the colonies.
5 i do have a strong bias toward LGB/Marklin, although , they are track powered. For the most part, they are extremely reliable , well engineered, extremely forgiving of knocks (do not underestimate this ) and inclement weather. and will not give you a headache, due to the loco's inherent quality. They can be converted to battery.
6 if you were to ask me, and assuming i nor anyone else would be around to help, or that you might well shun my type, LOL, and be left to yourself, thank you very much, in the confines of the garden , gin and tonic in hand, id suggest that you buy a starter LGB set, passenger or freight, as you fancy. These will be track powered, but can easily be retro fitted battery. The ones with locos with smoke units, i believe, will have a socket on the rear cab of the loco. This can be ideal for a plug in battery system, i believe. I am not, however, able to give you first hand advice in this regard.
I know of no one that has ever regretted having purchased an LGB starter set. Add a bit of track and a structure and some points, and you will have a lot of fun. I certainly loved mine and still do , several decades , and several hundred additions thereto, post acquisition.
I concur, spend a touch more, see it first, and buy from a reliable source. You can then progress to battery.
Best of luck and happiness.
Last edited:
Sarah Winfield
Registered
I agree with everything that has been posted. However, my circumstances are somewhat different to normal peoples. I have spent 60 years trying to come to terms with my inability to produce a satisfactory model railway layout.
I have resorted to G Scale because it is big and since I am ham-fisted I thought, in my twilight years, it might provide me with some kind of satisfaction.
Battery power at least does away with problems of dirt on the track so trains should at least run consistently.
I would much sooner buy from a reputable source although money has just got tighter with a £500.00 bill from the Inland Revenue.
I have plenty of track and just want something that is reliable and reasonably prototype looking.
Sarah
I have resorted to G Scale because it is big and since I am ham-fisted I thought, in my twilight years, it might provide me with some kind of satisfaction.
Battery power at least does away with problems of dirt on the track so trains should at least run consistently.
I would much sooner buy from a reputable source although money has just got tighter with a £500.00 bill from the Inland Revenue.
I have plenty of track and just want something that is reliable and reasonably prototype looking.
Sarah
Martino
Photography, The GWR, Aviation, Travel, Cars.
Hi Sarah, I’ve been watching this thread with interest. I know exactly where you are coming from and to use multiple clichés, I feel your pain.
I moved to large scale in the garden because I had the space and had always wanted an garden railway having been 00ing off and on since the age of 4. Like you, 60 years or so.
I bought an LGB starter set second hand and didn’t regret it for a moment. I wanted more U.K. outline so set about modifying and bashing. If it looks ok fro 10’ away, I’m happy.
I ran analogue but felt DCC would be better and easier - not cheaper though! I sort of mastered DCC, and even managed my own conversion, after a fashion. Yes, clean track is a must and good rail clamps are essential. You can get away with fishplates, LGB grease and in some cases jumper wires. That all seemed too much faffing around for me, so rail clamps it was. Despite struggling with various rail cleaning methods (yes they do work, but elbow grease is needed constantly) I eventually bought an LGB track cleaning loco. It worked, but it seemed to me that it was my most used piece of kit. Indeed sometimes that all I could run given the time it took to sort out power problems etc.
Living in Northwest Florida has its own challenges for garden railways. Humidity then drying heat, sandy soil (we’re right on the coast), hurricanes, tropical storms and, the ultimate killer for me, lightening. This repeatedly fried my electronics even if everything was disconnected.
If you’ve read my thread recently about getting back my enthusiasm, you’ll see the whole sordid story. I’m now happy(ish) with one battery powered loco. More will come in due course I hope, but currently just going out and running a train with no track cleaning, no electrical issues is wonderful.
Yes, I know I’ll have to replace batteries, and indeed charge them regularly. But for me that’s no problem and quite acceptable.
I stress this is all just my view. It seems to match your view. It’s whatever does it for you. If a reasonable looking battery powered train works. Go for it.
A reputable source is good to from. I’m sure you have enough sense to see through the ad guys and girls!
Have fun, it’s what we’re all in this for.
I moved to large scale in the garden because I had the space and had always wanted an garden railway having been 00ing off and on since the age of 4. Like you, 60 years or so.
I bought an LGB starter set second hand and didn’t regret it for a moment. I wanted more U.K. outline so set about modifying and bashing. If it looks ok fro 10’ away, I’m happy.
I ran analogue but felt DCC would be better and easier - not cheaper though! I sort of mastered DCC, and even managed my own conversion, after a fashion. Yes, clean track is a must and good rail clamps are essential. You can get away with fishplates, LGB grease and in some cases jumper wires. That all seemed too much faffing around for me, so rail clamps it was. Despite struggling with various rail cleaning methods (yes they do work, but elbow grease is needed constantly) I eventually bought an LGB track cleaning loco. It worked, but it seemed to me that it was my most used piece of kit. Indeed sometimes that all I could run given the time it took to sort out power problems etc.
Living in Northwest Florida has its own challenges for garden railways. Humidity then drying heat, sandy soil (we’re right on the coast), hurricanes, tropical storms and, the ultimate killer for me, lightening. This repeatedly fried my electronics even if everything was disconnected.
If you’ve read my thread recently about getting back my enthusiasm, you’ll see the whole sordid story. I’m now happy(ish) with one battery powered loco. More will come in due course I hope, but currently just going out and running a train with no track cleaning, no electrical issues is wonderful.
Yes, I know I’ll have to replace batteries, and indeed charge them regularly. But for me that’s no problem and quite acceptable.
I stress this is all just my view. It seems to match your view. It’s whatever does it for you. If a reasonable looking battery powered train works. Go for it.
A reputable source is good to from. I’m sure you have enough sense to see through the ad guys and girls!
Have fun, it’s what we’re all in this for.
Sarah Winfield
Registered
I've really enjoyed reading these posts and although to me the whole process seems daunting I do believe it is the right move.
I've some serious cleaning to do just to see my locomotive move on the track.
Thank you.
Sarah Winfield
I've some serious cleaning to do just to see my locomotive move on the track.
Thank you.
Sarah Winfield
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
Sarah, just one small thing to add to the very useful posts above, re track power - don't forget that your little Stainz is an 0-4-0 loco with a very short wheelbase, and even a short length of dirty track may very well cause it to stutter or stall... a bigger loco with 6, 8 or more wheels is picking up power over a much longer contact area, and will most likely run much more smoothly over exactly the same condition of track. While there is no doubt that clean track (along with good joints) is the key to successful track-powered running, the larger the loco the more forgiving it will be (in general terms) on less-than-spotless track.....
Jon.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Yes, Low Self Discharge - with NiCads, if you used a model and hadn't run the battery to its fullest extent, you'd pick it up a week later and the batteries would be flat because they slowly self discharged once used. NiMh didn't change that immediately, but second generation NiMh - known as LSD (don't ask, I didn't invent the acronymLSD technology ?
) mean that, if your loco will run for three hours, and you only run for an hour this week, it'll run for the best bit of two hours next week.It all leads towards battery power being much easier in use. Also, look at Philp's picture of the battery pack in the dismal fuel tank, and those are AA cells rated at 2400 mAh - a few years ago, you struggled to get that out of Sub-Cs
Now I don't put AAs in everything, and one particular loco which has low gearing and a very chunky, and slightly thirsty, Buhler 7-pole motor is powered by 19.2v of Sub-Cs; mind you, the loco is hauling a Bachmann K27 tender 
(which is now packed full of said batteries)That said, I still use track power as well, but to be able to just drop and play is a great advantage.
Yer get home one afternoon, da sun is shining, and you don't even have to plug in the transformer, just drop a loco on the rails, hook up a bit of rolling stock and play
You may be surprised..
As long as the rail-head has been gone over, and joints have been cleaned up (overnight in cleaner, recommended) then you should be able to get something to run quite easily..
I would seriously recommend considering a raised track. - I fear my own track will need to be raised if/when the round-tuit's are caught!
If you can get to Peterborough, you might find a suitable second hand set there??
If it is from a dealer, then you would have come-back if there is a problem. However, LGB stuff is pretty resilient, and you have to do a fair bit to really damage it.
But DO get something down, and run a train.. If that passes the smile test, then the rest will follow.
Enjoy!
PhilP.
Sarah Winfield
Registered
Nearly 2 years ago I posted several questions about my Stainz DCC locomotive. Everyone who replied and tried to help me, I am very grateful to. Unfortunately, I haven't really moved on or improved; if anything I have gone backwards.
The output to the track on the E-Z Command is a female jack type socket. I assume the male part of the jack has 2 wire which are connected to the track.
Is there anything special about the plug or the wire, please?
I feel I am beginning to start the whole thing over again and I apologise.
Sarah Winfield
The output to the track on the E-Z Command is a female jack type socket. I assume the male part of the jack has 2 wire which are connected to the track.
Is there anything special about the plug or the wire, please?
I feel I am beginning to start the whole thing over again and I apologise.
Sarah Winfield