Jackson's 'Small Country Station' build

O

Old Tom

Registered
After seeing Steve's excellent work on the signal box, I decided to go for the Small Country Station and as I'm feelin brave, I'll show you all how I get on...


It's a well made kit which can be built straight from the box. Just some painting is needed and you have yourself a neat little station building.

Of course, me being me, I couldn't resist a bit of a kit bash, so I also ordered some 2,000 brick slips to cover it with (thanks for the idea Steve! :thumbup: ) and a couple of sheets of roof tiling:

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I've cut a side door to the ticket office and added a partition wall with a ticket office window. Also made an interior door to replace the one I'm using at the side and placed a bit of wood where I will have a fence, just to see how it might look:

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I then laid a few slips on the wall - my word, it's going to be tedious gluing 2,000 of the little beasties!

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For info: I got the slips and roof sheets from http://www.minaco-uk.com/ < Link To www.minaco-uk.com - excellent service and reasonable prices.
 
Like it Tom keep the pics comming :thumbup:
 
Excellent, and thanks for the link
 
Keep posting really nice. I need to start on scenery soon. BTW- how will it end up totally waterporrf as that looks like MDF?
 
A tip with brickwork. Lay your fist course along the bottom and then work up from the corners. It will make for more evenly spaced brickwork.
 
Ian,
The material is moisture proof (also known as "green") mdf. If you seal the cut edges properly, as explained in the instructions, it is fine for outdoor use. Even if you don't seal the edges properly and the mdf absorbs moisture, it won't "blow" like the regular stuff. I have a Raven Square frontage kit outside that I didn't do a very good job sealing and it absorbed 750ml of water (a wine bottle's worth). I dried it out, resealed the edges (properly this time) and it's fine. I have had one of the small lineside buildings out on test since Christmas in bare material (with the edges sealed). No problems.
And in answer to Casey's question, in the kit you get the pre-cut mdf pieces, doors and windows, glazing for the windows, and instructions.
Nice work Tom. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished station.
Steve
 
Please keep the pictures coming. I have recently 'laid' about 350 of 1/24th brick slips and did not find it too mind destroying.
 
400Parker said:
Ian,
The material is moisture proof (also known as "green") mdf. If you seal the cut edges properly, as explained in the instructions, it is fine for outdoor use. Even if you don't seal the edges properly and the mdf absorbs moisture, it won't "blow" like the regular stuff. I have a Raven Square frontage kit outside that I didn't do a very good job sealing and it absorbed 750ml of water (a wine bottle's worth). I dried it out, resealed the edges (properly this time) and it's fine. I have had one of the small lineside buildings out on test since Christmas in bare material (with the edges sealed). No problems.
And in answer to Casey's question, in the kit you get the pre-cut mdf pieces, doors and windows, glazing for the windows, and instructions.
Nice work Tom. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished station.
Steve
Click to expand...
The one difficulty I had with this MDF was pinning hinges into the edges. it is a near impossibility - for me at least, because despite drilling a pilot hole it always seems to burst AND fall out!
 
Keith, can I suggest drill the hole the same size as the pin and glue it in?
 
bobg said:
Keith, can I suggest drill the hole the same size as the pin and glue it in?
Click to expand...

That was my eventual solution but I still managed to make a clumsy mess of it.
Consequently, the doors, on an engine shed, remain open.
 
I know the problem, I have similar myself, G scale bits........and 7 1/4" gauge fingers!!!

:laugh:
 
bobg said:
I know the problem, I have similar myself, G scale bits........and 7 1/4" gauge fingers!!!

:laugh:
Click to expand...

:bigsmile:
 
I went to mates, to see why he was late. He was staring at a lot of orange pieces on the table and told me he was having trouble with his jigsaw puzzle.

I told him he oughta cut back on the JD a tad. It was a box of cornflakes.
 
Tip for doing small hinges

I have found that most of the problem comes when you, ( Sorry, " I " :thumbdown: ) have fixed one hinge & then something slips & the other end of the door moves, twisting & pulling the first hinge out of place

I have been more successfull

by

supergluing hinges into place first, then drilling holes, then gluing pins into them

you can then also * gently * check wether they open close smoothly before fixing pins in place


With tall doors try using 3 hinges to each door, as in full size practice
 
Thanks for the encouragement, tips and info folks! :thumbup:

I started covering the station and here's my own tips which might benefit anyone else using slips:

Start at the side or back - that way you'll learn how best to do it BEFORE you do the front which is the bit that everyone sees first. I obviously didn't :(

Some slips have small holes on one side and can be 'dished' - check before you glue them.

If you are not using corner pieces like Ian-s has used, leave the thickness of a slip overhanging the front so you can but joint the side ones and trim off excess with a file.

You'll see what I mean in the photo:

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Woderwick said:
I went to mates, to see why he was late. He was staring at a lot of orange pieces on the table and told me he was having trouble with his jigsaw puzzle.

I told him he oughta cut back on the JD a tad. It was a box of cornflakes.
Click to expand...


The old ones are the best ones!!!
 
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