I've got a track plan but...

O

Old Tom

Registered
I'm now stuck as to how to go from here!

I downloaded the superb free software from AnyRail (thanks to whoever it was who mentioned it on another thread - I've forgotten who it was though :( ) and have now got the plan together.

My question is (and it's probably been asked before!) can you recommend a good, value for money supplier? I've got no preference for track manufacturer because I guess that as far as quality is concerned, you get what you pay for.

Any help would be very much appreciated...

Cheers

Tom
 
Hiya Tom.

Im also only just starting out really, and Ive bought a bunch of used track (mostly flexi) from various suppliers (last lot came from GRS). Ive got all sorts..Aristo, LGB, Tenmille etc, and its all in good nick. Ive stuck with brand new stuff for pointwork though.

As long as its been reasonably well laid/lifted, I wouldnt be afraid to buy used G scale track.
 
Hi Tom

Just a word to the wise, for smoother less hassle train running (known as Testing, here), choose a make of track and try to keep to it.
Mixing makes does not always make for an easy ride.
It can be a hassle to keep putting your glass down to deal with a derailment. :thumbup:
 
I concur with Funandtrains to a certain extent. I mostly use Peco in the seen area's, but use LGB in hidden area's with one Station and 3 curve exceptions as I needed to use the tight curves (R2). I had a fair bit of LGB so it made sense to use it. However as I use Hillman Rail Clamps for each type, I use either Hillman Join Clamps or Peco Converter (LGB_PECO) joiners between the two differing types. These I use as Insulators (the Peco ones) to separate Power districts on my MTS System.

On the Rushchbahn we happily use LGB/PECO/Aristocraft but in distinctly separate area's. The Aristo is all in Hidden sections as that was the cheapest thing to do when we built that line.
JonD
 
I have just bought a load of Piko G Scale track from Topslots'n'Trains in Blackpool, very good service from them, and the track is as good as LGB and a little bit cheaper, their R5 points are only £42 Lgb R1 points are about £35.

So if you plan on buying new, I can recomend the above.
 
Thanks a million, everyone.

Lots of sites to look at tomorrow! :)
 
I have one circuit of AML (Accucrafts equivalent of LGB track) and 2 circuits of Tenmille. All approx 100ft in length.
When I did the calculation the Aml finished track was approx the same price as self assembly of Tenmille rail and plastic sleepers.
I beleive that the AML track comes in 6ft lenths and the Tenmille in 5 ft ( you had better check that)
It involves less work if you use longer sections ( to state the obvious) The AML track is economic if you buy in packs of 12 x 6ft(although you can get it in 3ft lengths) However if you need to buy extra lengths in other than packs of 12 or 6, it does cost more. There is also a reluctance on the part of dealers to split packs due tho the problems of sending a flexible length thru the post on it's own . GRS will sell single lengths and I picked one up at the recent Stoneleigh show theregy avoiding the shipping problem. Not all dealers will split a pack..you need to ask.
The same problem applies to Tenmille although they will send single pieces on special request but the shipping costs are disproportionate.

I have connected the two types of track together but one needs a split clamp and a joiner for the thinner Tenmille rail!

Hope this helps.
 
I use a mixture of LGB Aristo and Piko - all compatible
never used planning software or hardware
just plonk it down and see how it turns out
 
Have never used them but TrackShack (Isle of Man) quote good prices and I'm sure I've seen many good reviews for their service on this forum.
 
owlpool said:
I use a mixture of LGB Aristo and Piko - all compatible
never used planning software or hardware
just plonk it down and see how it turns out
Click to expand...

Ditto ................

IMG_1661.JPG


I use LGB rail joiners for connecting all types of track but I dohttp://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2006/05/how-did-i-bond-rails.html < Link To bond the joints with soldered jumpers. The only problems I've had is when I've laid pointwork which wasn't perfectly level and when I tried joining two lengths of flexi track in the middle of a curve (my cack-handedness rather than the fault of the track!).

http://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2008/08/progress-report-15-beeston-castle-is.html < Link To
IMG_1411.jpg


Rik
 
I'd recommend going for as large a radius points as will fit (I use LGB R5 everywhere) and flex track, using as long a sections as possible, for the rest. Flex track probably needs better foundations than you could get away with set track but it is worth the effort. Use long sweeping curves if you can, avoid R1's. Stagger the joints where possible when using the flex track. Use rail clamps from the start, don't use over fishplate clamps.

Hope that helps.
 
Thanks again everyone :thumbup:

After several hours of checking out sites, re-thinking layout, checking sites again, getting confused, re-thinking again etc. etc. I finally went for the dead easy option. A Piko 35301 Siding set and a full circle of Piko R1 to complete it. All from Topslots'n'Trains as their prices are good and free delivery. (Thanks for the heads up Silveflyer!)
OK, it won't exactly be the most awe inspiring railway but it'll be a good start and very easy to develop into something a bit better at a later date - when I've got more cash :)
 
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