My Otto stopped a couple of times today, I know dirty track or wheels, however the light on the loco remains on, which suggests it is picking up power, and it was more of a “wiggle “ to get it going, so I am thinking dirty commutator or similar.
Is it an oldish Second Hand one? There have been a few threads about restoring LGB Motors. However another thought occurs, are all of your points passing current OK on the cross wires within them? R3’s can be notoriously tricky in that respect with R1’s not much better. I find it well worthwhile to solder Jump Leads to replace all of the LGB wiping and stamped links for power. A reduction of power could certainly cause such issues.My Otto stopped a couple of times today, I know dirty track or wheels, however the light on the loco remains on, which suggests it is picking up power, and it was more of a “wiggle “ to get it going, so I am thinking dirty commutator or similar.
I did read that thread with interest, though couldn't wholly see the benefit of the resistor, except to add a permanent load.Or you can use the graphite based products marketed by LGB/Massoth and others for this purpose. I use both the copper and graphite products. All the track joiners/clamps and electrical connections are treated this way on my line.
Little tip with "pressure contacts". If practical solder them up. I had a USAT train block (destined for my OcCre Madrid tram) that refused to run properly, internally there were a number of bent brass rod busses only making contact with other electrical components through pressure or interference fits. I soldered them up, problems gone. Probably done as means of rationalising production of the block initially.
You might want to take a multimeter to your track and see if there are any significant drops in track voltage at any points, particularly at track joins. When I started running my Accucraft K-27 I discovered all sorts of problems, due to its unusual pick up arrangement - pickups one side only loco, other side tender only, that all my other locos never experienced with their "all wheels" pickups. Even ended up adding a booster cable that I had never needed in 15 years of use.
As I believe you use the Train Engineer you might also want to look to adding a 100 ohm/10 watt resistor across the 5471 controller's output leads. Recent thread, with appropriate drift, here Issues with Aristo 5471/5473 rx/tx - G Scale Central explains all.
I did read that thread with interest, though couldn't wholly see the benefit of the resistor, except to add a permanent load.
Post 31 of that thread indicates that the TE started working fine BEFORE he even bought the resistor.
Read a bit more in depth and you will see that he fixed/replaced the output fuse holder.
Greg
Maybe I should add a fuse to that too. Max