IP Engineering “Vale of Rheidol” coaches

[DaveB2]

Does anyone have any experience of IP Engineering’s “Vale of Rheidol” coach series?

Due to having a very understanding wife I’m now looking at putting together a few VoR coaches and I’m undecided between the varnished wood matchboard and painted variants. I’m drawn towards the wood look but I’m concerned my skill level may not be up to tidiness I need and whereas paint can cover any slight errors varnish may just end up highlighting any excess glue I’ve applied or filler I’ve needed.

I know the freelance coach range goes together really well so probably I shouldn’t worry.

The “full length” kits are 130mm longer than the 4 compartment coaches I’ve built, I assume the sides are still a single piece rather than having been split into two to accommodate any laser cutter or postage considerations?

Thanks for any input

Dave

 

[PhilP]

How about asking if you can get a copy of the instructions (if not available to down load)? - Then you would have an idea of the skill-level required, and could make a judgement based on that..

 

[DaveB2]

I haven't found the instructions on-line but I'm sure they'd (IP) help I was just thinking someone on here might already know the answer to the two part / not two part side question.

On my skill level, I've built the freelance coaches and assume these would be on a par but those I painted and I simply wondered if any excess glue would become very obvious when the coach was varnished?
Possibly using a conventional PVA adhesive would score there over cyano.

 

[maxi-model]

Sides are one piece. However, if paired up with a Roundhouse VoR they will look very odd. Ivan, IP's owner, says they are correct and the Roundhouse loco is not. Some might disagree. They are very basic and poorly detailed. Glue in roof fitting is a pita, I replaced IP's roofs with GRS formed ones and made them screw fit. The Brandbright product, now available again, is much better proportioned and detailed. You get what you pay for.

I use a medium thickness superglue but a woodglue like Titebond 2 is best, so long as you are patient. I am not. To finish sanding sealer, rub down, followed by filler primer (more coates to fill in grain as required). Do any staining prior to bonding and painting. Then primer to suit chosen colour coats.

I sold my IP's as soon as I'd built them I was so dissatisfied with their out of scale & proportion appearance. Don't get me wrong, IP does some nice sevicable and economical stuff that will build well but these are not one of them. Avoid. Max

 

[DaveB2]

Ahhh... Thanks Max that's useful information.

Bullseye on the Roundhouse VoR intent, seems like I'll need to investigate those Brandbright offerings you mention.

Assuming they're the same, agreed on the roof, I didn't like them on my freelance kits so built a framework to carry them making them removable.

I'm with you on the superglue, I also used a thicker cyano for speed but as I'd intended a paint finish any that wicked out from under wouldn't spoil the final effect. Having now thought about it I've got a load of the pop out window parts, which I kept, for some God knows why reason, so I may try putting some spots of glue on one and see what a coat of lacquer over it looks like.

Thanks for the reply