IP Eng L&B 3 Compartment Coach Kit

JimmyB

Now retired - trains and fishing
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This my thread on building the IP Engineering "L & B 3 Compartment Coach Kit". The kit is relatively straight forward, so it will not be a "blow by blow" account.

The first question is why this model and this kit: I have a Bachmann "Lyn", fitted with Accucraft couplings, and 3 Accucraft IoM single coaches, I know the purists probably won't like it, but these coaches suit the loco (IMHO), and rule 8. But I enjoy model making and though I should build some coaches. The kit looks quite similar to the IoM singles, and the Lyn is an L & B loco.

Comments on the kit: The kit arrived in a polythene bag, and the 45mm gauge wheels in a separate bag, no box for protection

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Inside the bag was seven frets of laser cut wood, a roof section, three bags of white metal components, wire, acrylic for the windows, wheel bearings, and four A4 sides of instructions. There was no parts list, and no identification for the frets, though as a simple kit, this should not present an issue.

The instructions recommend superglue for the main construction and epoxy for the smaller parts. I have always used "PVA" type glue on wooden kits, but though I would try superglue.

Construction: There are no "tab and slots" most parts just butting up to each other. Following the instructions, I assembled the sides and ends to the floor, the pros of superglue are mainly almost instant adhesion, no holding parts in position waiting for the glue to dry, the cons are almost instant adhesion, which means trying to line up the parts when they touch. This was managed but I did not find it easy, also the joints are brittle, and where the ends meet the sides is thin ply, and two joints cracked, my solution was to brush PVA into the joints.

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The next stage is to add the raised wood work, I will be using PVA for this, which will give me working time to make adjustments.

More to follow......................
 
Ive made a few of these kits. They are very good, but you do need to make sure the larger pieces aren't warped. I found that fixing the seats on one wall helped with the sticking of the rest of the sides, and sticking the raised panelling helped to line up the walls too.
 
I have built a few of Ivan's kits over the years. Mostly from his Darjeeling range. Nice simple projects with few frills. They go together with a good parts fit. If you want embelishments there are plenty of suppliers out there to provide them. IP are excellent with after sales service, at least on the one occaision I have needed them. One thing I have found handy is with their bogied stock you can buy spare, kit specific, bogie sets for both 32 mm & 45 mm gauge. Handy if you are visiting lines with gauges that do not match your own's.

I have found bonding with CA glues works fine for me, although I do use PVA's too. I learnt to use the thicker types, they seem to allow a little "wiggle" time, and then spray on an accelerator for final fix. Once the basic "boxes" are made up I haven't experienced problems with bond failures and cracking. One tip I would offer is to do any dye type wood staining effects, if needed, prior to application of any adhesives. Glues permeate the wood where applied stopping dyes penetrating in those areas. Max

Former house deity Izzy supervising IP Darjeeling kit production line. There is a Yatton baggage wagon in there too, right between Izzy's ears. About 15 years ago, Ivan was doing a 1/2 price deal on those kits at the time ! These feline blessings are essential to the build process :nod:

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P Paul M and maxi-model maxi-model I have built a number of IP Engineering kits before, but not from this range and my experiences have been varied. I am just giving my experiences on this kit, and my thoughts on the build, as I go forward with it. However if you feel I am being too harsh, then I will desist with the review, and delete the thread.
Tell it as you find it, Jimmy

It's interesting to know how people get on.

Personally, I would never use superglue on wood - that's just me, and as a result I am particularly inexperienced with modern superglues which are much improved. I was introduced to a waterproof wood glue, Titebond II which is excellent, except for the drying time. I found that on thin wooden sides, it caused warping while wet, but they went back when dry. However on an American Hartford kit, the solid timber warped, and stayed warped after drying (frustratingly) and I had to correct the overall shape with some appropriate, unseen screws :oops:

I'd go with what maxi-model maxi-model says about staining/dyeing before gluing though, but this would only apply to the inside of your model I suspect.

Let's see the rest of the build
 
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