Increasing my Live Steam only indoor Layout.

[Rob1962]

I currently have a 12x5 layout and am increasing it to 13x7.My radius was 2 feet. Now it will be 3 feet.The largest live steam locomotives I have are an Accucraft Forney,Roundhouse Billy, and Accucraft Ruby.Any recommendations for something larger?I do like the Accucraft Shay 2 Cylinder.What else could you recommend?

 

[dunnyrail]

I currently have a 12x5 layout and am increasing it to 13x7.My radius was 2 feet. Now it will be 3 feet.The largest live steam locomotives I have are an Accucraft Forney,Roundhouse Billy, and Accucraft Ruby.Any recommendations for something larger?I do like the Accucraft Shay 2 Cylinder.What else could you recommend?

Pretty sure the Roundhouse Darj Garrett would work OK.

 

[maxi-model]

Yes, the Accucraft 2 cyl Shay, with its geared 0-4-0 + 0-4-0 bogies it will be very happy on that.

Even my big Accy' NG/G16, a 2-6-2 + 2-6-2 Garratt, will do 2.5', but that has non standard "blind" centre drivers fitted. "Blind" driving wheels are so called as they have no flange on their inside face. They are a design "fix" a lot of makers use, as standard, on their 6 and 8 coupled locos to get them round tighter curves - and more sales Or, it is a mod' that can be "retro-fitted", i.e. you machine turn the wheel flange off ! But get advise before trying to do that.

If you look carefully at some locos you will notice that where a "blind" driver is fitted it is machined to a diameter so as to actually not contact the rail head. So an 0-6-0 is in reality working as an 0-4-0 ! That is done to minimise risk of it binding and causing a derailment on tight track geometry.

Generally most makers will issue a minimum radii statement for their products. RH certainly do, look at their website listings. If buying new, and 2nd hand for that matter, any good trader, e.g. Anything Narrow Gauge in UK or Jay Kovak's "The Train Department" emporium in the US, will advise you what in their stock will suit. Feel safe looking at anything that has 0-6-0 (+ 0-6-0) wheel arrangement maximum. But be aware that some, like L&B Manning Wardell's with 2-6-2, have a long driving wheelbase that may not like 3ft radius without modification. Max

 

[Rob1962]

Yes, the Accucraft 2 cyl Shay, with its geared 0-4-0 + 0-4-0 bogies it will be very happy on that.

Even my big Accy' NG/G16, a 2-6-2 + 2-6-2 Garratt, will do 2.5', but that has non standard "blind" centre drivers fitted. "Blind" driving wheels are so called as they have no flange on their inside face. They are a design "fix" a lot of makers use, as standard, on their 6 and 8 coupled locos to get them round tighter curves - and more sales Or, it is a mod' that can be "retro-fitted", i.e. you machine turn the wheel flange off ! But get advise before trying to do that.

If you look carefully at some locos you will notice that where a "blind" driver is fitted it is machined to a diameter so as to actually not contact the rail head. So an 0-6-0 is in reality working as an 0-4-0 ! That is done to minimise risk of it binding and causing a derailment on tight track geometry.

Generally most makers will issue a minimum radii statement for their products. RH certainly do, look at their website listings. If buying new, and 2nd hand for that matter, any good trader, e.g. Anything Narrow Gauge in UK or Jay Kovak's "The Train Department" emporium in the US, will advise you what in their stock will suit. Feel safe looking at anything that has 0-6-0 (+ 0-6-0) wheel arrangement maximum. But be aware that some, like L&B Manning Wardell's with 2-6-2, have a long driving wheelbase that may not like 3ft radius without modification. Max

Thank you for valuable info,I would like to see if the Roundhouse Sandy River#24 would work,It is 2-6-2,What do ya think about that on the new Live Steam Layout. I am almost sure I will have a 3 Foot Radius.

 

[maxi-model]

Here you go - Sandy River & Rangely Lakes #24 Will work on LGB R1's, they say. Look carefully at the pictures, it has those"blind" centre drivers.

Now, one thing you need to take into consideration is how you are coupling any stock you are hauling or propelling, especially if it is bogied. Do not forget that these locos have longer "overhangs" beyond the driven wheels than you have operated so far. This will be particularly noticable when your loco rounds your 3 ft radius curve as they swing out. The pony trucks and couplings on and between tender and loco will be least affected, becuase they can move in relation to the loco chassis, but the couplings at the ends can't. As the loco and tender ends swing out over the rails so must any trailing stock be coupled in such a way as to accomodate this. Otherwise you will be looking at derailments as the stock is "dragged" off the rails.

Simple fix - your trailing (or propelled) stock, if it uses bogies rather than fixed axles, should be fitted with couplers ideally be mounted on extention arms attached to the trucks, not the car's body. Look at any Bachmann "Big Hauler" and a lot of Aristocraft and USAT stock and you will see it done that way and how it helps (you might be using these already). If you must use body mounted couplers then mount the car's bogie pivots near as possible to car ends. This is easier done with kit built stock, see examples in link below. Even if you are using Roundhouse's centre buffer type, and getting by through extending the chain coupling, there is still the risk of the buffer ends locking up when you come to a stop. So, using a bar type link instead of a chain may be better. Max

P.S. Bowater's here do a nice range of laser cut kits representing Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes Railroad stock. Might be pricey to ship though. And import taxes, who knows ? Sandy River and Rangeley Lakes Railroad