I thought LGB track was tough

[voodoopenguin]

All the track I have for the PIGSEAR is secondhand and after doing the cleaning I noticed that one piece had quite a kink in a rail. No problem I thought, pair of pliers should bend it back in line but no chance. No idea what could have caused the original kink but my next step is to try a metal vice along that section and hopefully gently squeeze it back into shape.

Paul

 

[stockers]

A vice - or tread on it on a hard surface, if the direction of correction is suitable.

 

[voodoopenguin]

Treading on it won't work, I'm trying to post a picture but failing at present. I'll keep trying but I believe my vices will win here!

Paul

 

[voodoopenguin]

 

[PhilP]

At a guess.. Mower damage??

 

[Rhinochugger]

At a guess.. Mower damage??

Something's been dropped on it - from a great height

Aliens

 

[PhilP]

Looking at the damage to the running-edge of the rail..
I think I would pull that rail, straighten it, and then insert it back into service with the damaged edge outermost..
YMMV.

 

[stockers]

Yep - clamp it between vice jaws and tighten. It does not have to look perfect to work perfectly.

 

[Sarah Winfield]

I've a similar but not so drastic piece of track. I found the inherent "springiness" in the rail to be the problem when trying to straighten it in a vice.

It probably would be best if the rail was withdrawn from the sleepers. Then using 2 pieces of metal, one each side of the kink carefully put the opposite kink into it.

Certainly should take the worst of the bend out.

Sarah Winfield

 

[G-force1]

It has certainly taken a fair old whack on the inside edge. I would be inclined to see if it would come out but not to the detriment of the sleepers/chairs. The vice is a good bet with maybe as Sarah suggests something extra to add impetus to that point. Brass is naturally quite springy so it needs to bent back beyond the point where it is correct so that it will return to the correct position on release. It's called the elastic limit of the metal, each one is different. I would feel inclined also to carefully dress that edge with a fine file when the shape is right.

 

[korm kormsen]

kinks like that, with a torsion, i was never able to repair.
in cases like that i would cut away about five sleepers length of the rail and use the rest of that piece of track for fabrication of short pieces of track.

 

[Rhinochugger]

kinks like that, with a torsion, i was never able to repair.
in cases like that i would cut away about five sleepers length of the rail and use the rest of that piece of track for fabrication of short pieces of track.

Yep, I'd be tempted to place it at the end of a siding

 

[dunnyrail]

Pull it out of the sleepers give it a good heat and when well hot a few good wollops with a big hammer on an Anvil or the Vice Grips. If That does not work cut and use at the end of a Siding.

 

[ebay mike]

I've got a railbender you're welcome to have a play with if any good. My son lives in the same village as you and I'm going to see him on Monday. PM me if you'd like me to drop it off.

 

[Eeyore.Boater]

The head of the rail has been stretched by whatever caused the damage. This means that the head of the rail is now longer than the foot of the rail. No amount of squeezing in vices etc is going to persuade the head of the tail to return to its original length. Make a junior hacksaw cut down to the topside of the foot near to the the apex of the damaged section. This should remove sufficient of the extra length in the head to allow it to be returned close to its original position. As already said a file can be used to tidy up ragged edges.

 

[G-force1]

The head of the rail has been stretched by whatever caused the damage. This means that the head of the rail is now longer than the foot of the rail. No amount of squeezing in vices etc is going to persuade the head of the tail to return to its original length. Make a junior hacksaw cut down to the topside of the foot near to the the apex of the damaged section. This should remove sufficient of the extra length in the head to allow it to be returned close to its original position. As already said a file can be used to tidy up ragged edges.

I think that as the head is the heaviest section, the foot will stretch to allow it to return to it's original shape, any slight difference will show as a small vertical deflection which can easily be removed. It would be easier if it were annealed first but still in the sleepers that is not an option.

 

[voodoopenguin]

I wonder if I should make a similar kink on the other rail and call it a quirky feature.

Paul

 

[trammayo]

An adustable spanner is also useful in helping straighten out the kink when the rail is held in the vice. I suffered a similar thing when my trailer was blown on to the track it was parked alongside!

 

[JimmyB]

Pull it out of the sleepers give it a good heat and when well hot a few good wollops with a big hammer on an Anvil or the Vice Grips. If That does not work cut and use at the end of a Siding.

Totally agree, heat is the best bet when shaping brass

 

[Zerogee]

To be honest, unless it's part of a very long piece of track, I'd be inclined to just scrap that bit of rail.... OK, you might not want to waste a 4 foot length, but if it's just a 2 foot or 1 foot piece then I'd recover the sleeper bed and the one good rail for possible re-use if you find another damaged length anytime, and put the bent rail length into the "spares box" for cutting into short bits at some point.
The suggestions of cutting the whole thing into two short track sections either side of the bent bit are also good.
I don't think you'll ever really manage to get that back into the correct shape, and the time and hassle spent trying would (for me, anyway) outweigh the cost of getting another length of track to replace it.

Jon.