I Have A Problem With My Goose

If you put the loco on a DCC track does the motor buzz?

If so, this would suggest that it is not fitted with a DCC decoder....
 
The loco is fitted with a Decoder - I know what a decoder is !!!
The Goose was owned by Dave Buckingham
I do know quite a bit about Lenz, decoders and sound units
I do have a Lenz programmer
I do know pretty well what Im talking about
What I wanted to know was why wont the Goose move when its sound is going well,
No Gizzy - the Goose doesnt buzz when its put on my DCC track, which is the only track that I have anyway
What I think I will do is as I said earlier, I dont need the battery side of things, so I will strip it out, sell it on and use the Goose only on DCC with the Phoenix sound unit
Graham
 
I am not familiar with the Lenz set up but does it have a delay start CV? Also can you put a meter across the motor terminals and see if it is getting any volts? Perhaps the decoder has been set to DC only (thus running on (0) but the sound card DCC /DC (running on (3)
 
Graham ASH said:
The loco is fitted with a Decoder - I know what a decoder is !!!
. . .
I do know quite a bit about Lenz, decoders and sound units
. . .
I do know pretty well what Im talking about
What I wanted to know was why wont the Goose move when its sound is going well,
Click to expand...

Sherlock Holmes and Watson are on a camping trip. Holmes asks 'what do you deduce from what you can see'? Watson replies that he can see various constellations so that it must be winter. Holmes responds, 'No you idiot. It means someone has stolen the tent!'

My suggestion is that you need to look for the tent. In this case the decoder. That's the 'thing' in the loco that connects to the motor. Obviously physically, to ensure that it is present, and how it is connected, but also electronically to ensure that it is working.

Anyone who asks 'why should I reset the decoder' has obviously no experience of decoders. Of the myriad of CV settings how do you know that any are compatible with your system? Frankly only a complete novice would ask that question.

My advice -

Step#0: physically identify the decoder and how it's connected.
I'm not aware of any standards that cover dual DCC / radio control. You need to understand how the various switches are connected.

Step #1: reset the decoder!

Then if you still have problems

Read the CV values for decoder manufacturer, type and DCC address.

I'm omitting step by step detailed instructions because if you need them, really you should not be attempting this.

And only then, if you still have problems, ask for help. HINT: at each step carefully record what you did, and what the outcome was.


Yours faithfully,
Sherlock Holmes!
 
Dear Sherlock - Please re-read my report - you are obviously not very good at deducing anything thats written - the Decoder is knackered - ie burnt out, cannot be of any use - so Im doing it another way
Yours securely
Hattie James xx
 
Graham ASH said:
the Decoder is knackered - ie burnt out, cannot be of any use - so Im doing it another way
Click to expand...

To me at least this begs the question of why the decoder is fried.
A clue may be in an extract from Keith's post.
KentKeith said:
My Goose No. 2 was fitted with a Pheonix Sound Decoder and a motor decoder by the (late) John at HobbyBahn (can't remember which make) but, to be honest, it's one of my worst performers. John said the wiring was quite bizarre and the front bogie kept shorting until John did a fix on that.
Click to expand...
 
There does appear to have been a little (for want of a better expression) rudeness creeping into this thread, from both sides of the fence as it were. Come on ladies and gentlemen please, keep it civil.
 
3Valve said:
There does appear to have been a little (for want of a better expression) rudeness creeping into this thread, from both sides of the fence as it were. Come on ladies and gentlemen please, keep it civil.
Click to expand...
Just so Gareth.
I think it was to do with help innocently offered, maybe it was too basic (from me) and insult was taken and then a spat of heads being bitten off scenario.
The solution to the 'Goose' scenario looks to have been offered/found so all is good. Heads reseated in place and we can now play nice....:bigsmile:
 
Slightly confused by the suggestion that the decoder is knackered / burnt out - in an earlier post it was said that the loco runs ok on analogue / address 0? Or was that running on straight track power with the decoder switched out?

Shorting wheels or overload etc. tends to blow the output stage of the decoder, rendering it unable to drive the motor at all. In the past I've replaced the FETs (output transistors) on a Lenz Maxi decoder after I let the magic smoke out!
 
Sorry Nick - I dont know the answer to that one, but what I am doing is awaiting as a Lenz silver and then I will attempt to put it all back together and hope that it works
Graham
 
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