I am almost giving up. I am having a hard time getting my train to run outside so considering battery power.

What I meant was that, before you cut off the pick-ups, you were feeding BATTERY POWER to the track!
Oh ok I did not know that. Well just had a run and went well. If I am not feeding battery power to the track any more the engine might have a wee bit more power. With 9 v every bit counts. I just had a good run... No derails yaa.
 
That was without the shell. With the shell it is a mess and shorts out still. Going to replace 1 a with 2.5 I found but will figure this out. Strange I am getting derails all of a sudden.
 
Front axel of front truck was too loose and not catching. Just about all screws get loose over time. But having that would cause derails.
 
Front truck is not on in working order. Thread had moved to. How can I adjust front axel of front truck. Thanks. No sign of wear but the 2 are not touching.
 
Well we all knew this would happen. The 9 volt was ok for just the engine. But with the slopes and curves and pulling 3 box cars that small battery did not stand much of a chance. So I am rigging up the 22 v rechargable battery. Along with making my track smoother at the joints.
 
With people I am patient but other than that I have none. But I am getting there with the rr. The track is a lot smoother. I trimmed the plastic liner with rail bridge going over. Now figuring out wiring using the 22 volt. I want to carry the battery in a gondola car so put a bid on e bay. Have not caught Flu yet... yaaa. ( Knock n wood)
 
With people I am patient but other than that I have none. But I am getting there with the rr. The track is a lot smoother. I trimmed the plastic liner with rail bridge going over. Now figuring out wiring using the 22 volt. I want to carry the battery in a gondola car so put a bid on e bay. Have not caught Flu yet... yaaa. ( Knock n wood)
Depending on what you want to do and as you appear to like just running trains then a battery car will work well for you. In general a van is possibly better, you can have a switch box behind an opening door so that you can get to it easily. You will also need to get to grips with a coupling plug between the loco and battery car. A plug and socket from a speaker assembly works well or if not such things easily available from Amazon.
 
This is like watching a car crash over and over again in very very slow motion.

The good news is that you have now realised why your fuses kept blowing and have removed the electrical connections to the track pickups.

The bad news is that you haven't worked out that the reason you keep getting derailments is because your track isn't properly laid on firm foundations.

There was a chap on the forum who used to lay his own homemade track directly on the dirt, but he spent a lot of time building a very firm well packed perfectly level trackbed with embankments and cuttings before putting down the track. A day's hard work with a spade will save you weeks of frustration in the future.

Rik
 
I see you have problems keeping your track aligned and clean.

Have you considered putting down planks on which you can lay your track?
Curves can be done using small sections.
Even better if you support the each 50 - 60 cm with poles hit into the ground. Using a level from pole to pole will result in a perfect bed for your track.

I think a weekends time of investment. Enjoyment for years.

And if you manage to keep the planks a short distance from ground level it might even keep your lovely young dog from running all over it.
 
Another option used in the past was a run of bricks for the track to sit on. Temped into a shallow trench and made level will give a pretty good long time sans servicing. But the cold winters in that neck of the woods means heave over winter would need a rehash every spring. Zac could be a bit of inspiration.
 
Another option used in the past was a run of bricks for the track to sit on. Temped into a shallow trench and made level will give a pretty good long time sans servicing. But the cold winters in that neck of the woods means heave over winter would need a rehash every spring. Zac could be a bit of inspiration.

Just to back up John here, the brick run was the way I went this year, after suffering some bad corrosion on the track over previous winter. Its worked really well. Simply dug a trench, filled bottom with sharp sand, then using spirit level tapped the bricks down level. Took me about an afternoon. It looks a bit sparse at first, but after using some cheap plastic lawn edging to retain ballast, and filling in soil to edging level, I'm quite happy with it.DSCF8991.JPG
 
With the 9 volt I was able to charge it while left in the engine. The 22 volt has to be taken out and put into a quick charger. That is why I want a gondola. I will cover the battery to make it more realistic. No more derails and track is now better put together .... so wheels should last a lot longer now.
 
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