How rigid is flexi track?

Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

Professional Idiot
Country flag
Daft question I know but :-

I assume it comes in a straight box, so I'm asking does it remain straight, when laid as a straight, as opposed to buying it to bend it.
 
Yes it does.

Unlike the smaller gauge track, you will need a rail bender to curve the track....
 
Depends what brand of track you are talking about, how far you want to bend it and if/how you are fixing it. If you are not bending it too much and are fixing it to a base it probably won't need to be pre-bent, flex and fix will likely be OK. If you're not fixing it then it will spring back. If you need to bend it far then you risk kinky track (ooh-er missus).
 
3Valve said:
Or a beer belly :rolf:
Click to expand...
I can vouch for that method! Also the knee but the middle-age spread is better for larger radii :)
 
Wobbleboxer said:
Depends what brand of track you are talking about, how far you want to bend it and if/how you are fixing it. If you are not bending it too much and are fixing it to a base it probably won't need to be pre-bent, flex and fix will likely be OK. If you're not fixing it then it will spring back. If you need to bend it far then you risk kinky track (ooh-er missus).
Click to expand...
I don't think Gordon wants to bend it, but lay it in straight lengths, hence he's checking that it is rigid enough to remain straight.
 
3Valve said:
Gizzy said:
Yes it does.

Unlike the smaller gauge track, you will need a rail bender to curve the track....
Click to expand...

Or a beer belly :rolf:
Click to expand...
Speak for yourself?

My belly is R1....
 
To stop it flexing, it is a good idea to use the flexitrack with the ties (sleepers) though.....might be a problem with consistent gauge without them...:rolf:
 
The reason I asked the daft question, was I've seen some 3ft lengths of the stuff cheaper than std 3ft lengths on the net....
 
Nodrog1826 said:
The reason I asked the daft question, was I've seen some 3ft lengths of the stuff cheaper than std 3ft lengths on the net....
Click to expand...

Nothing daft about that Nod....
 
Just to note that both LGB and Piko flexitrack comes as rails & sleepers separately, and you have to thread them yourself.
Not an issue if you're buying it S/H, but just something to be aware of.
 
HBBahn said:
Just to note that both LGB and Piko flexitrack comes as rails & sleepers separately, and you have to thread them yourself.
Not an issue if you're buying it S/H, but just something to be aware of.
Click to expand...

Ah, good-oh..
The last lot of s/h I got had a number of length of this.. It had not been 'pulled-up' sympathetically (if you get my drift!).
I will probably have to shorten each length by a few inches, and source some replacement sleepers. - Once I get round to laying track, and work out what make it is of course!
 
3Valve said:
Wobbleboxer said:
Depends what brand of track you are talking about, how far you want to bend it and if/how you are fixing it. If you are not bending it too much and are fixing it to a base it probably won't need to be pre-bent, flex and fix will likely be OK. If you're not fixing it then it will spring back. If you need to bend it far then you risk kinky track (ooh-er missus).
Click to expand...
I don't think Gordon wants to bend it, but lay it in straight lengths, hence he's checking that it is rigid enough to remain straight.
Click to expand...

Sorry, misunderstood the question.
 
Well most of my outdoor layout was planned, or should that be "unplanned" around Peco, not Piko, with some nice gentle curves and also some quite severe approx. R1 bends, I can hardly use the graceful word "curve" to describe it. The instrument used for bending the track, although I see this is hardly what you are asking, was the standard R1 belly, as has been mentioned. As for straights, yes it will lie straight but you have to accept that if your layout is anything like mine you will get subsidence etc in which case my experience has been to let the track float as much as possible, keeping the screwing or pinning down to a minimum, and then you may well get slight lateral movement, but this is just a matter of aligning the track as and when required. My constant advice is to try to keep the rail joins staggered, especially on the bends. Why didn't you lot tell me that before? I like Peco track but I have to admit I have not used anyone else's flexi track.
 
As mentioned above i was/am looking to use it a straight, pure and simple.

But for the mo i've bought/ordered something some other items, but i'll keep the comments in mind.
 
Nodrog1826 said:
As mentioned above i was/am looking to use it a straight, pure and simple.

But for the mo i've bought/ordered something some other items, but i'll keep the comments in mind.
Click to expand...

I bought some track that came in 3.6M lengths they were fairly flexible ie I could bend it as I laid it without using a rail bender but that was for very wide curves for sharper curves I used a bender or across the belly. To overcome kinks I made some joiners out of brass sheet and then soldered the lengths together using a blowtorch and plumbers solder before bending something I learned while in HO.
On the straights the sleepers are screwed to steel purlins on the curves the sleepers are held down by wire tent pegs pushed into the ground.

Rail lengths from http://www.pamakhobbies.com/Products/LGB.html
Picture of track showing curves and straights

76ee4bd37d8a486bb089d34a765a15f1.jpg
 
I redeployed some LGB flexi-track to a double track straight and found that I had to screw it down at pretty close intervals otherwise it tended to develop slight kinks from screw to screw - in the end replaced it with "rigid" straights. This might not show up so badly of course on a single line., or if your platelaying is better than mine ! (not difficult)

Phil
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom