How do you set up a reverse loop

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mez
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Only just caught up with this. For a picture of a more common wiring arrangement involving sensor tracks, see this post in the Ruritanian Railways thread: http://www.gscalecentral.net/fb.ashx?m=280258 < Link To http://www.forum.gscalece.ral.net/fb.ashx?m=280258

From left to right: main track connection to the module; sensor wires; reverse loop track connection. Obviously there is another pair of sensor wires at the other end of the reverse loop.

For what it's worth, I've never needed to use the diodes.
 
beavercreek said:
Hi Gareth
The four diodes are for the sensor tracks (two per segment one for each track.
These are used only if you are using the sensor operation otherwise the the unit will just use the short circuit detection mode.
The diodes are to help 'operation' issues with the sensors and can be left out if everything behaves itself.
I have them on both reverse loops with also the internal jumper set to 'short circuit detection' mode just in case the sensors don't cut it (ie if they were saturated, confused etc).
The diodes should be wired to the sensors and the module as in the piccy from the manual

images

Amazing what you discover when you read the instructions properly. Although the picture in my instructions is a pretty poor black and white jobby so you can't see the diodes clearly, the caption below it clearly says "position of diodes, ring to outside". What a numpty I am.

Just hope the weather is good this weekend so I can wire it all up now. Thanks for all your input everyone.
 
Okey dokey, so the first loop is finally wired in and appears to be working.

Next question. Is there any specific type of solder I should use to solder the wires to the tags? Twas a tricky job that.
 
no, i use maplins low melt soilder on a roll.. as long as your iorns, clean, and hot.. and the things to be soilderd are clean.. i tin both wire, and tag 1st ..then soilder together..
 
i scrape my soilerering iornn tip, with a blade/stanly nkife when its hot, to clean it.. getting things clean, and hot, are the secrects.. tinning/covering both things with soilder, before joining its also a good tip
 
Soldering outdoors is tricky.

Best to do it indoors if you can....
 
Gizzy said:
Soldering outdoors is tricky.

Best to do it indoors if you can....
Agreed.. Amazing how little breeze will take the heat away from a joint / small soldering iron..
If the item to be soldered is on (say) a brick, or concrete, it will be slightly damp and also 'wick' the heat away from the joint you are trying to make.. In this case, if you can raise the parts to be soldered a few mm it will help enormously.
 
Gizzy said:
Soldering outdoors is tricky.

Best to do it indoors if you can....

Er, the track is laid and screwed down outdoors. It's a Garden railway after all.

I suppose I could dismantle the sensor tracks, solder up the tags indoors, then re-install. What a faff.
 
3Valve said:
Er, the track is laid and screwed down outdoors. It's a Garden railway after all.

I suppose I could dismantle the sensor tracks, solder up the tags indoors, then re-install. What a faff.

It may be a much easier faff about than trying to solder outdoors mate?

Just trying to help....
 
Gizzy said:
It may be a much easier faff about than trying to solder outdoors mate?

Just trying to help....

Yes I get it mate, it's just that the loops etc., have already been laid a while. Still, at least indoors I'd be

a) warm and
b) near a brew :D :D
 
3Valve said:
Yes I get it mate, it's just that the loops etc., have already been laid a while. Still, at least indoors I'd be

a) warm and
b) near a brew :D :D
And don't forget c) cake or biscuits.... :o
 
detialty.. brew, bickys and cake.. its the only way ???
 
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