How can I adjust the front axel of front truck....

I did test it before I put it on the tracks. It only ran for 20 seconds on the track but I could hear bad things with the gearing then disconnected the battery
 
Well plan now is to charge the 9 v over night. Hook it up tomorrow and give it a go. It says 4 hour fast charge but maybe 4 hours is not enough. I will charge it for 6.
 
Ok in the specs it said 1 to. 32. I got bigger problems now. I was hoping I could get this running with the 22 volt today. First it did not want to run with the fuse. 2. 5a or 10a. Then when I got it to run without the breaker the control blew. It runs all out with it on or off which is very hard on the engine gears. And whips around like a out of control Bullitt train.
You blew a 2.5a, then a 10a fuse? Then you tried without a fuse? And it blew up the controller. Sorry to say this, and don't get wrong I wouldn't normally say this, you're an *****
 
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I tried that controller with 9 v battery and it is toast unfortunately. But I still have one good one.
 
No I am not ...both fuses did not blow. For some reason it would not work with the fuses. And I showed you what I was going to use for power..... You never said it is not comparable.
 
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See how the 9 volt goes tomorrow after a 6 hour charge. If not which is what will probably happen I might order this.
 

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So, when it did not run with the fuse, there was some other issue.. in the future I suggest you figure out why it did not work with the fuse. It's really too dangerous to test without a fuse, as you have hopefully proved to yourself.

I think your fuses were blown. You really should have 2 fuses based on all the troubles you are having. Put a 5 amp fuse between the battery and the controller.

Put a 3 amp fuse between the controller and the loco.

You this will protect you from causing a fire with the battery or burning up wires. I suspect you had a short also in your wiring to the loco and that is what toasted the controller.

Can you take a single picture showing your wiring, battery, controller, locomotive?

I also would like to see what kind of fuses you are using and how you are insulating your connections.


All in helpfulness....

Greg
 
Yes thanks for your help Greg. I am totally frustrated. I got other bad news today as well so got to relax a bit. I missed an important e mail and is too late to do something about it. Both fuses look fine. This is the 2.5 a that I am using
 

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OK, looks like a slo-blow, which might not be a good choice. Do you have a small meter that you can test these with? Harbor Freight makes an inexpensive one.

The reason I am mentioning it is that I have been fooled before, the fuse extends out of sight where the metal caps are. Some times the fuse breaks there: it can look good but be "open".

Greg
 
I will try it with the 9 volt tomorrow. If not a go I will get more fuses and new fuse holder.
 
Ok I might have something hanging around. There is no Harbour freight in Sarnia. As I said if I go get some fuses I will get another fuse carrier. ...so the 12 v and charger I put a picture up of. Will that work?. At this point no more 22 v. I do not want to further destroy my train.
 
You blew a 2.5a, then a 10a fuse? Then you tried without a fuse? And it blew up the controller. Sorry to say this, and don't get wrong I wouldn't normally say this, you're an idiot
Ok if the moderator is not going to remove your nasty post I am just going to put you on ignore. I said the fuses did not blow from what I can see.
 
Ok in the specs it said 1 to. 32. I got bigger problems now. I was hoping I could get this running with the 22 volt today. First it did not want to run with the fuse. 2. 5a or 10a. Then when I got it to run without the breaker the control blew. It runs all out with it on or off which is very hard on the engine gears. And whips around like a out of control Bullitt train.

Ok if the moderator is not going to remove your nasty post I am just going to put you on ignore. I said the fuses did not blow from what I can see.

This implies you had problems with the 2.5 and 10 amp fuses, and it was deduced (incorrectly it seems) that was not the case. However, you often do not explain your actions fully, therefore leaving gaps that people fill in. In providing your faults, you need to be more succinct, in both what you did, and what occurred as a result of your actions, with if possible good clear photographs to provide a detailed view.

P.S. if you run your loco without overload protection, especially after finding a fault, then that is the actions of a person with no idea what they are doing, and should think about giving it up.
 
Ok if the moderator is not going to remove your nasty post I am just going to put you on ignore. I said the fuses did not blow from what I can see.

I have better things to do than waste my time reading and moderating this sort of stuff..... You ask for advice, you are given advice, you may read it, you may have digested it, but do you follow it? It does not seem so... that will then give an impression to the rest of the community here..... I will say no more.

Everyone else, please dont call him out as an idiot, of course you may think it. if you so wish.
 
I think you are an idiot for thinking I am an idiot. To who ever it applies to. I am just trying to get my g scale to run nice. So if you are low enough to name call back to ya.
 
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Ya thanks Greg. I found out why it was not working properly. A female connection didn't quite catch the wire. So I got my 9 volt hooked up. After a 6 hour charge it only ran around 2000 feet. The battery is around 12 years old and has been through a lot recently. 20 times around pulling 3 rolling stock I can get my addiction fix. Don't smoke drink drugs or wife...eeek ha ha so can't complain. I really prefer being able to have the battery in the engine like what I can do with the 9 volt. So Greg can you look at the pictures of the battery and charger I put up and tell me what you think. Do you think the 2 are comparable? And do you think they would work in my engine? Much appreciated and thanks Greg.
 
This implies you had problems with the 2.5 and 10 amp fuses, and it was deduced (incorrectly it seems) that was not the case. However, you often do not explain your actions fully, therefore leaving gaps that people fill in. In providing your faults, you need to be more succinct, in both what you did, and what occurred as a result of your actions, with if possible good clear photographs to provide a detailed view.

P.S. if you run your loco without overload protection, especially after finding a fault, then that is the actions of a person with no idea what they are doing, and should think about giving it up.
I cycled 29 miles today in 30c. And once cycled 250 miles in a day. Giving up is not in my vocabulary. I am happy with my run today but could be better....more power and longer duration on a charge....I am getting a lot less clicking from the tracks. This is only my second month of having a garden railway so of course there will be bumps along the way. Still no excuse to name call.
 
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I cycled 29 miles today in 30c. And once cycled 250 miles in a day. Giving up is not in my vocabulary. I am happy with my run today but could be better....more power and longer duration on a charge....I am getting a lot less clicking from the tracks. This is only my second month of having a garden railway so of course there will be bumps along the way. Still no excuse to name call.
First, I did not call you names (as much as I wished to), and second if you cycled 29 miles in 30c for no good reason, maybe you are an idiot.
 
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