Hi - new to G scale

Ensign Elliott

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Hi all. I'm completely new to G gauge as I currently model indoors in N.

My wife has given permission for a small garden railway so I'm looking into the completely new world of large scale stuff. I'd ideally like a live steam 0-4-0 and a small circuit of track measuring about 4m in diameter, maybe with couple of stabling sidings.

I was planning to buy some of the Peco G gauge flexible track (SL-900 series) but thought I'd ask on here about the pros and cons. Anyone got any advice for a beginner?

Many thanks

Rob
 

David1226

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Hi all. I'm completely new to G gauge as I currently model indoors in N.

My wife has given permission for a small garden railway so I'm looking into the completely new world of large scale stuff. I'd ideally like a live steam 0-4-0 and a small circuit of track measuring about 4m in diameter, maybe with couple of stabling sidings.

I was planning to buy some of the Peco G gauge flexible track (SL-900 series) but thought I'd ask on here about the pros and cons. Anyone got any advice for a beginner?

Many thanks

Rob

Hi Elliot

Welcome to the Forum, only too pleased to help. Send me £500 and I will tell you everything you need to know.

David
 

idlemarvel

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Welcome to the forum Rob.

Do you have a theme for your proposed layout, and/or will it be based on some narrow gauge railway somewhere?

SL-900 is nickel-silver code 250 45mm gauge track. That's quite a specific choice.
I would guess the majority of people on this forum use code 332 brass (LGB etc) for 45mm gauge, it lasts forever and there's usually loads second-hand.

You may have already done your homework on this but my questions would be:
- if you are running live steam do you need nickel-silver track, usually people want that to save on track cleaning for electrical pickup locos - brass 45mm gauge track will probably be cheaper
- have you decided on 45mm gauge? You can use either 45mm or 32mm in the garden but there may be a wider choice of affordable live steam with 32mm. I have little experience of live steam so this is just from observation, other live steam enthusiasts are better qualified to comment. Again I would guess the majority of people on this forum use 45mm gauge.
- code 250 track looks more to scale but code 332 is virtually indestructible, so it depends on the setting of your layout, whether people may stand on it accidentally, etc.

Hope this helps.
 

Paul M

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Welcome Ensign, is that a name rank or number?
This forum is brilliant at advice, and everyone will do their best to help, but if you want to get involved with live steam your best bet is to join the 16mm Association and join your local group, there are several in the Midlands.
 

Northsider

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Peco track will give a more realistic appearance, so while many on here do use LGB (code 330) track, others use Peco. It is perfectly good for live steam, and indestructible in normal use.

If you are using flexitrack in this scale, I would invest in a dual railbender, or join the 16mm Society and see if you can borrow one; the heavier section rail will not bend smoothly like N or 00 track.

If running live steam, bear in mind that these locos work best when running/moving -sitting still, and shunting is not really their thing. And lay the biggest radius curves you can; 4M diameter is a good choice, and will allow you (or your visitors) to run longer/larger locos in due course. Also think about the length of run -a 4 metre circle will quickly lose its appeal, whereas a route (with the train disappearing/appearing, as in real life) will keep its appeal. A circuit is better than end-to-end operation, for the reason given above.
 

RogerK

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Welcome Rob

I'm making an assumption that you are in the UK and want British trains.

Best advice would be to learn more before you buy anything. Unlike N scale (1:160), there is not really an established G scale. G gauge usually refers to the 45mm track, but you can find 1:32 scale standard gauge locomotives, 1:20.3 scale 3 foot narrow gauge locomotives and 1:13.7 scale 2 foot narrow gauge locomotives all running on the 45mm track. As Dave alluded to above, most small British live steam locomotives are models of 2 foot (more or less) gauge trains running on the 32mm "O'" track. The scale is usually 16mm to the foot or 1:19 scale.

Many of the small live steam locomotives with outside frames allow the wheels to be gauged at either 32mm or 45mm,. You could go with either gauge track, but 32mm would be more compatible if you want to play well with others. Rolling stock also has the match the track gauge as well.

I'm in the US and my layout uses 45mm because that is the norm here. Most live steam locomotives here are models of 3 foot narrow gauge trains in Fn3 scale (1:20.3) which is correct for the track.

You are probably just starting to think about what you want, but the more information you can provide will help the members help you.

Roger
 

Paradise

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For such a small layout you might find that the Peco G45 points are too long for some configurations. You can fit in a lot more point work and siding length with LGB points.
TrainLine R2/3 points which match LGB look better but only slightly longer than R1.
 
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With the size of your layout, cost of the track is probably much less important than how it looks. If you are ever going to power it so you can run DC locos, Nickel Silver, Stainless Steel, or Nickel-Plated Brass would be good choices.

Also with just a siding or 2 I recommend you use larger turnouts just for smoother operation, a 10' diameter / #5 or greater frog.

Greg
 

dunnyrail

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Hi all. I'm completely new to G gauge as I currently model indoors in N.

My wife has given permission for a small garden railway so I'm looking into the completely new world of large scale stuff. I'd ideally like a live steam 0-4-0 and a small circuit of track measuring about 4m in diameter, maybe with couple of stabling sidings.

I was planning to buy some of the Peco G gauge flexible track (SL-900 series) but thought I'd ask on here about the pros and cons. Anyone got any advice for a beginner?

Many thanks

Rob
Welcome to the forum. Peco is a good choice but you should be aware that the points are somewhat large but work very well For what you are proposing. Have a look at my line linked below mostly using Peco where it is scenic but LgB in tight places plus Aristo / LGB for the 4ft Radius curves so you could mux and match if you are a bit u sure about doing the curves as the Peco setrack curves are very tight radius. Though most 0-4-0’s will negotiate them quite happily. Other thing if you use Peco points, many live steam have somewhat finer wheel standards and are happier running over the Peco points. But LGB and most other of the coarser wheels are happy on Peco. Good luck with your project and please take pictures if what you get up to so that we can see them in here.
 

Gavin Sowry

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Hi Elliot

Welcome to the Forum, only too pleased to help. Send me £500 and I will tell you everything you need to know.

David

Oi, I'm in charge of the Nigerian Bureau this week......
 
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Gavin Sowry

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Google Isle of Shoals Railway, that should give you some real inspiration (even though it is 7/8ths scale).
 

Paradise

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Some details of 45mm points.

Peco G45 points are 600mm long (straight) and have a straight diverging route of only about 15 degrees.
LGB R3 points are 440mm long (straight) and have a curved diverging route of 30 degrees, 1195 mm radius.
 

DRG11

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Hi,

Good luck with your design that you decide upon, you should be able to get most ,if not all, of you questions answered here :)
 

Madman

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Welcome aboard, Rob !
 

Riograndad

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Welcome aboard,Peco do a rail joiner/adapter to join Peco and LGB and other brass track to compensate for the different rail heights,I have Trainline 45,LGB and Aristo brass joined to Peco with no problems,just a little information for you;);)
 

dunnyrail

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Welcome aboard,Peco do a rail joiner/adapter to join Peco and LGB and other brass track to compensate for the different rail heights,I have Trainline 45,LGB and Aristo brass joined to Peco with no problems,just a little information for you;);)
Yes sorry I forgot to mention those, they are also good for creating pseudo power districts or isolating sections if the power strip is not used.
 

Gizzy

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Welcome to the forum Rob....