Help with orient express.

If you do change the grease...
'Less is more..'

Big gobs of grease just move about, attract dirt, and don't do any good..
 
The post when you actually let us know which controller you are using, - the controller is analogue and a very simple starter set one. forget the numbers etc on this power controller, it only has one amp, your loco alone puts more than that and it is lit and pulling a lit coach, the unit gets hot and cuts out, the capasitors or "stay alive" keeps it going. I send you a KISS (keep it simple stupid) if you are going to install a XLS use a 5 amp or 10 amp controller and go down the DCC route. Not sure if the sound module would do everything you want on analogue. Is your second video taken on your digital set up?
 
He says he has a 50110 transformer and 55006p Central Station. Thats 5 amps and DCC - it will work fine.
 
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I bought one of these sets recently and had teething problems. Turned out it was the power of the controller... once I swapped it to a 5A one, everything worked fine

Jon
 
As an alternative to installing an XLS decoder, you may wish to consider using an XL instead. This allows you to retain the original sound and other features (e.g flickering firebox). There are a number of threads on the forum on how to do the install - e.g https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/lgb-mallet-23851-massoth-decoder-fitting.221432/#post-280634 - and it's quite a popular one, so if you have any queries there will be folk on this forum who will be able to advise you.

Enjoy!
 
The XLS has far more, and better quality, sounds than the original. No need to loose the firebox lights either. The XL will save a few quid but when you have invested in a quality item like this, is iy worth it. The old 'half penny of tar'.
 
Fully agree about the XLS capability - I've installed them in a couple of my own Mallets. However, I was a bit disappointed with the sounds that ship with the latest XLS versions. Personal preference I know, but I wish I'd stuck with the original sounds that came with the loco.
 
Flying Scot said:
Having taken mine apart UNLESS someone has been in there I cant see how the gears could jump to get one tooth out of sync
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It can happen on almost any LGB loco. My friend had both variants of the Swiss GE2/4 the Box Ones were always slipping out of quarter, Centre Cab versions never did. Wierd I know but that is the way it was.

Glad you got a happy result Richard.
JonD
 
That engine with the 4 lights, smoke and 2 motors will tax a 1 amp supply. Minimum is 2 amps for that loco, esp. if it is pulling cars!!
 
Dan said:
That engine with the 4 lights, smoke and 2 motors will tax a 1 amp supply. Minimum is 2 amps for that loco, esp. if it is pulling cars!!
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See post 23
 
Flying Scot, you ask about the cause of this irritating event, I found with my Sumpter Valley loco that it had picked up a small piece of tree wood as it passed through Hedge End Station, pushed it along the tracks until it jammed in the next point causing a derailment, the leading chassis was totally off the track but the trailing drivers were still powering them both.
Now on my loco there is one traction tyre on the rear chassis which was trying to grip, whilst the other chassis was happy to carve up the railhead as they do, when very quickly restored to service it was running like a three legged camel because the rear chassis had jumped a single tooth, one of my members swiftly sorted the problem and the beasty was soon hauling it's 18 car logging train.
When I can find another chassis without a traction tyre I intend to retro fit that and hopefully have a more reliable locomotive.
John S.
 
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