Some time ago, on this forum, I read about some converting a LGB Stanz to something more British. Unfortunately I cannot find any reference to it. I was sure it was on Rik's Peckforton blog, but I can't find it their either. Can anyone help?
Help needed
- Thread starter Paul M
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Magic Google search spell: site:gscalecentral.net LGB Stainz conversion to British
Anglicised Stainz - test run - G Scale Central
Anglicised Stainz - test run - G Scale Central
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Can I assume that these terminals are for coach lighting? If so after reading Rik's Peckforton Blog (excellent, by the way- any thoughts on prenting it as a proper book?), will these also accept input volts to run the motor? Being a card I'd thought I'd ask first!
A definite 'maybe?'.
But as it a 'Frankenstainz', then who know's?
Use a meter to see if there is any connection between the sockets, and the wheels / track.. If you 'just' feed volts into these sockets, without checking, you could quite easily be powering your whole track, as well as this loco!
Most probably, they will be 'track volts', but after the bridge rectifier (if there still / is one) in the loco.
My guess, would be there will be very little 'electronics' in this loco?? - Unless it has come with a decoder???
PhilP.
Thanks for the reply, I was hoping to batterify it, but I haven't worked out how to take the damn thing apart yet and was hoping for a quick fix to play with battery circuitsA definite 'maybe?'.
But as it a 'Frankenstainz', then who know's?
Use a meter to see if there is any connection between the sockets, and the wheels / track.. If you 'just' feed volts into these sockets, without checking, you could quite easily be powering your whole track, as well as this loco!
Most probably, they will be 'track volts', but after the bridge rectifier (if there still / is one) in the loco.
My guess, would be there will be very little 'electronics' in this loco?? - Unless it has come with a decoder???
PhilP.
Is it a 'split-block'? - Looks like it might be old enough?
You should (if a 4-wire motor-block) be able to drop the 'block, and just pull the track-wires..??
BUT
The two sockets are marked '-' & '+' so I think there will be a bridge rectifier in the mix?
I do not think it would do a great deal of harm, to have the loco on it's side (or rollers, if available) and tentatively stuff a few volts into those sockets..
3-4 cells should give motion, and possibly not be enough to let any magic-smoke out?? - You could try both polarities, to see if the motor runs both directions from power in this way..
THIS IS AT YOUR DISCRETION, THOUGH.
Let's face it.. You should have plenty of time on your hand's to take it apart, at the moment.
Well I got this far without hurting anything! But I cannot see any PCB or even the motor! Any ideas? There's black and white cables going to lamp what are attached to green and yellow wires & the smoke switch also has a yellow wire to it.
So it is a Stainz and an early split chassis one as well. If you undo all the screws on the bottom of the chassis and take off the wire and that valve gear holding plate in the middle, unscrew all the valve gear connections to the wheels the chassis should drop out. It will then have screws on the side that will de-split the chassis. Be very careful you do not loose the thrust bearings at each end of the commutator rod. Make sure also that you take it apart with care and understand how it all would go back together! Now there will be some brass lengths of flat joining stuff together with a shared power supply to one side of the motor and wheels. This needs to be made so that you only have 2 wires coming from motor connections for a battery conversion. If you want to make it suitable for track and battery you will need to change things to 4 wires out, 2 motor and 2 from the track pickups. Dooable but a little more involved, look at a thread about converting a 3 wire chassis to DCC to sort that out.
Just want to reinforce what Jon said, that the ends of the motor shaft (commutator rod?) have small ball bearings that will fall out easily, and you want to focus on retrieving them right away. If you don't put them back in, damage to the motor can ensue. They limit the lengthwise travel of the innards. Can't tell you how many times this has happened.
Greg
Greg
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Thanks again for all your help, I was hoping to do a quick fix, but will obviously need to order some batteries and bits for speed control. Or even radio control, not too interested in any sound so should be straightforward. Says he with fingers and toes crossed
You will need to take wheels and motion off-of one side, to get into the block..
Give things a good-hard-stare, before you start.. Choose the wrong side to take everything off, and you will be cussin' and mutterin' under your breath..
Been there, and done it..
More than once, unfortunately.. 
Give things a good-hard-stare, before you start.. Choose the wrong side to take everything off, and you will be cussin' and mutterin' under your breath..
Been there, and done it..
More than once, unfortunately.. Cussing is what I'm good at, almost as good as taking things a part and not being able to put them back togetherYou will need to take wheels and motion off-of one side, to get into the block..
Give things a good-hard-stare, before you start.. Choose the wrong side to take everything off, and you will be cussin' and mutterin' under your breath..
Been there, and done it..
Lots of pictures will help you plus do it on a Tray then any parts cannot roll of to be lost forever.
It might be a lot easier to sell this historic version and buy a more modern version. It will probably run better on track power and will be much easier to convert to battery as all the bits you need to deactivate are easily accessible with 4 screws.