Hello from SE Wisconsin

Riktar Scale

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I recently retired and found that after 2 weeks I was crawling up the walls. Amazing how after 50 years of working, I found it very difficult to "relax" for days on end.

Anywho,

My Son-In-Law asked me if I wanted to get a G-Scale Garden train back up and running where he works as the maintenance Director. It had not been run in years and the locomotives were mostly non functional. The best one had only 2 of the four wheels turning on the the front truck. The layout is an elevated (1 - 2 feet off the ground) that is supported by 4x4 posts with a 2x6 bed (in the straight sections. the curves are double stacked 3/4 plywood cut out to form the curves) on top for the track. It was so bad in spots I could push my finger right into and almost through the wood. The tracks have many ground down/cupped out sections from the last person in charge of the train constantly running the dilapidated locomotives with only 2 out of the 8 wheels actually driving so the resulting spin from the drive wheels cut into the rails.

So While I like to tinker and find out how stuff works, (I was a mechanic for 15 years and 27 years as a site manager who maintained a 225 acre facility with multiple year round and 3 season buildings) my model/scale train knowledge is limited to what I learned in my early years with a basic Lionel train setup.

So while I am THRILLED at the chance to get this system back up and functioning, I am a bit apprehensive about the whole project. I know I will need the knowledge and experiences of the members of this forum. As a first question: What is the maximum grade a G-scale can climb? Right now the layout is an over and under spread out across 50 feet so the grade is pretty gradual. There is a section that runs along the back that is not connected to the main layout and it is about a foot higher than the over section and almost 2 feet higher than the under section. My concern is I would have to make the transition in less than 15 feet on either end and I don't know how well the train would handle that, especially with multiple (6+) cars.

There has been a lot of excitement over the train getting back up and running. So far I have gotten 1 GP38 diesel locomotive fully functional and I am replacing the track section by section so the train can keep running everyday rather than tear down the whole thing and have it out of commission while I repair/rebuild 100+ feet of train track and support structure.

Thank you everyone in advance!
 

Paul M

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Welcome to the forum. You've started the right way by asking for help BEFORE you ripped everything up and you've made a good start by getting something running to whet your appetite. I'm not sure about the maximum incline, someone will give a decent answer, but it obviously depends on the length and type of train you're using.
Oh just beware of the humour, it can be interesting to say the least. And pictures, we like pictures as they're easier to understand than words
 

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
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Welcome to the Forum!

What should we call you, or will Herr Riktar do? ;)
(You were warned about the humour!)

For a railway that will be running a lot, more attention needs to be paid to the quality of the trackbed, and trackwork..

If the loco's are to run reliably, and have a long life, keep your inclines very gentle. - Aim for 1:50 and try not to mix inclines and curves, if you can.

You may not be able to achieve this, so I would suggest, a longer, gentler incline (with a curve) is 'better' than a shorter, steeper incline.

Keep curves to a minimum of LGB R3. - Other makes of track, have differing radii.

Assuming you are track-powered? - You should clamp the turnouts. - So they can be removed for maintenance.
Bond the switch-rails. - Don't rely on the pivot-point, for power transfer.

You will have to balance the cost of rail-clamps, versus your time, if you bond across your rail-joints.

It is worth covering your roadway (if wood) with what we call 'roofing felt'. - A bitumin impregnated substrate, with fine 'grit' on the upper surface.
This will help protect the wooden structure from the worst of the weather.

PhilP
 

Madman

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Welcome aboard. Enjoy the task you have been asked to take on. Oh, and enjoy the forum. I know you will.
 

Gizzy

A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
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Welcome to the forum and enjoy your retirement Riktar.

PhilP has answered all your questions I believe, but ask away if you need any more help.

And post pictures too please....
 

Madman

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surgon-jpeg.608130.jpeg
 

Madman

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361905964_10218726991446441_4177817774136568728_n.jpg
 

JimmyB

Now retired - trains and fishing
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BSRRUS89

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In Wisconsin there are several garden railroad clubs and typically they a treasure chest of knowledge on multiple topics and very willing to share. GRnews.com is a bimonthly free newsletter that is also a good source of info including clubs sources.
 

Madman

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May be wrong but shouldn't you have posted these in Humour :)

Yet again, a senior moment.....:rolleyes:.....SWMBO says that too many of them are happening. I say that I live in my own little world, but it's okay, they know me there.....:giggle:
 

Northsider

Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
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Welcome to the forum -it sounds like you have an exciting task/challenge on your hands! The fact that you are restoring/replacing someone else's work should make it easier, although you shouldn't assume that they will have got everything right: we rarely do, with garden railways. As PhilP PhilP says, you've started off on the right foot by replacing rather than tearing down and starting again from scratch. Once you are up and running you'll find it like a real railway, with maintenance required and locos not working when you have a train to run :eek:.
You will find that the British contingent use different words for some technical terms: hence Phil's use of 'points' for what you would call turnouts. Fortunately there are several stateside members who can translate if necessary. Two nations divided by a common language, as the saying goes!
 

Riktar Scale

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Thanks everyone for the welcome(s) and advice!

As requested, I am posting some pics. I have a bunch more which I will be using for the portfolio I am creating for this project. The before pictures don't really do the "rot" justice. Amazing how some people think a coat of paint can fix something.

On to the north section of the layout:

Before:
Before.jpg

After:
After.jpg

Curve section before:
Before Curve.jpg

Curve section after:

After Curve.jpg

I figure pressure treated 2x6 would make a better track bed than stacked 3/4 plywood. I also realize I will have stain/seal the ends I have cut. One of the pleasant surprises from this was finding out Home Depot changed their pressure treated wood from a green tint to what they call "brown treat" which gives the wood a much better appearance.

Thanks again everyone! Looking forward to future discussions about this!!
 

Riktar Scale

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Also of note: I have already dumped the comments into a file for referencing the great info you all have provided!

And to answer a specific question in this thread: Herr Riktar, plain old Riktar or just simple Rick will do. The Riktar comes from a high school nick name that has stuck all these years...
 

PhilP

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I can say 'Welcome Rick!' now..

Look's like you have made a great start.

Enjoy!
PhilP.
 

Paul M

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Looks impressive, I'm looking forward to following this rebuild