Hello from Kootenays/BC
- Thread starter rentren
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Thanks, PhilP, but also TNX Paul M for your wondering was mine until PhilP cut.
Right then, the MRC gets light duty (the Stainz with a shorty train or Fiery Elias, the steam tramway with two light coaches and the 0-6-2 needs something like the MRC9900 (5.5Amps I learned from MRC) or MRC9950 7.5Amps). Of course, I'm open to other suggestions DIY inclusive (but it's decades ago that I cobbled a we controller together for Z scale equipment with circuitry to up the flow where contact got poor, nothing fancy).
Right then, the MRC gets light duty (the Stainz with a shorty train or Fiery Elias, the steam tramway with two light coaches and the 0-6-2 needs something like the MRC9900 (5.5Amps I learned from MRC) or MRC9950 7.5Amps). Of course, I'm open to other suggestions DIY inclusive (but it's decades ago that I cobbled a we controller together for Z scale equipment with circuitry to up the flow where contact got poor, nothing fancy).
Oh, and this wrt to top speed ...Zillertalbahn back in the days of steam with the U43 types about 35 km/h, somewhat faster with a former Bosnian narrow gauge 2-8-0, and Retian Railway steam 45 km/h, electric 55 km/h and post-WW II things picked up. I believe allowed V max is 90 km/h which is possible on some stretches from Chur to Thusis and somewhat less (?) to Ilanz (Surselva) or Schiers (Prättigau). Scale it all (at 22.5) and top speed is less than 2ft per second. Perfect to watch the rods 'knit' away ;-)
TNX, Gizzy. I'll need advice in many an aspect. Just became fully clear to me that my power packs won't do (MRC 1300, 1370) and wondering what people think about their big ThrottlePack 9950. Fine for DC (switch for big scales/smaller scales) and 'future proof' as it works for DCC as well. I don't think I will delve into that Real Soon Now but battery power and radio control might become the way to go once I extend the layout from beneath the cover of the deck.
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Meanwhile I acquired a Tech3 PowerCommand output 20VDC (variable, momentum & brake), 19VAC fixed, 20VDC fixed. And the firstr snow is here. I move the layout from under deck onto the floor in a downstairs area to keep on trying and testing (common rail and more). Things remain analog. Eventually when enlarging layout outdoors I might consider a locomotive with onboard power and radio control.
The valve gear on your U is back to front. the link on the bottom of the crosshead ought to be facing forward. Hope you don't mind me saying.
Oh, interesting! I bought it used. Will have to scrutinize LGB catalogs to see whether that is a fault right off the 'assembly line' or whether whosoever hat 'my U' before had it apart and misassembled it. -- And, yess! It must've been taken apart and wrongly assembled. On both sides to be sure.
Now what? Me tinkering? - Don't dare, ...'xcept I just did. The 'piston' on the LGB model is black plastic. It proved easy to manipulate things in such a way, that the link articulates now properly. - You have a very good eye! And I guess, you are familiar with the look of valve gears and what's possible and what is not. Thanks for pointing this out to me.
'My U' lying on top of an LGB catalog page.
Now what? Me tinkering? - Don't dare, ...'xcept I just did. The 'piston' on the LGB model is black plastic. It proved easy to manipulate things in such a way, that the link articulates now properly. - You have a very good eye! And I guess, you are familiar with the look of valve gears and what's possible and what is not. Thanks for pointing this out to me.
'My U' lying on top of an LGB catalog page.
It may not necessarily have been you deliberately, not unknown for LGB gear to get out of kilter when moving Loki’s around. Happens with other makes as well. Oh and you decision to go Battery May be the best move you make, no more track cleaning just the chore of charging batteries to keep up with. But if you make a revord card of each loco converted with details of the gear installed and dats. You then just need to record charging dats and hours run when you do. I tend to turn all that is out on the day, then record the hours when they are all turned off. 6-8 hours continuous generally gets to the need for a recharge.
Hints wrt battery powered locos duly noted. I'd have to do the conversion myself, feels a bit daunting but a long winter has begun in the BC Kootenays.
For your first attempt at a battery job you may find the 0-6-2 somewhat easier with more space i side than say Stainz or the Tram, though thinking as I am typing for the little ones a Battery Car may be a better bet. Then all you would need to do is isolate the motor via a double pole double throw switch so that it an still be track powered or just via the battery car. I am not normally a fan of battety cars but as they say all options have their place. With some careful work the connection at the rear could be re-wired to be what connects toe loco to the battery car with no outward changes. The switch could be hidden inside the cab like this.
Yes, I'd intend to use a switch to have both options, track and battery power. For the 2071D/U43 I use a sound car with ample space for batteries and switch.
...however. Coming to think of wiring, it's either the sound car's sound fed from the loco or else the power fed from the sound car to the loco. So, sound would have to be rearranged.
I think it very much depends on the sound card, if it is a MLS one the instructions should show compatibility of either, in fact with a battery setup you should be able to control some if the sounds from the TX. If it is a digital installation things are generally much simpler with battery as the power feed to the chip is either via track or x the battery system, decided by a double pole double throw centre off switch between the two feeds in.
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Got a long way to go. Wouldn't know what sound card LGB put in their sound box car 4135 S; on the card I find: LGB4367-35-1. But at this time there is lots of OTR to do before I tackle a battery conversion.
